zoev89

I am sorry that I was not able to come. My son prevented me from doing so by landing in the hospital this morning. So I spend the whole day in the hospital and only in the evening we were able to come home. So no ulti evening for me this time :oops: Fortunately we have been able to prevent permanent damage and my son will recover soon. This was a tiring day....

Waarom zou je het bed willen verwarmen bij het levelen? Gaat toch ook prima koud? Zonder bottom eindstop heb je software protectie. Deze kan je altijd in de war brengen als je wil... Als dat gebeurd dan zal de motor vast lopen en stappen skippen. Maakt een vreselijk kabaal. Als mij dat gebeurd gooi ik snel de printer uit en daarna ga je gewoon verder of er niets gebeurd is. Het UM design kan gelukkig wat klappen hebben zonder schade op te lopen.

So from what I can deduce from the information. The Ubis uses a thermistor for temperature readout since you are using a 4k7 pullup resistor. If the temperature wires make a short the temperature readout will be very high or error. If the wires are open then the readout would be 0 or error. In your case you claim they read 130. That is very odd... Did you make a short between the thermistor wires and the hotend? Now it depens on how the hotend is connected to your UM board, I can't say anything about that. A short between the 19V and the thermistor input could damage your microcontroller input circuit. The only advise I can give is start measuring the voltages on the inputs of the UMO board. Given the 130 degrees and the reset behavior you described I think something happened between the UMO inputs for the temperature input and your hotend output. If your are 100% sure the thermistor is ok and connected correctly and still have wrong values you could try the second temperature sensor readout and build a Marlin to experiment with that if your AD converter in the microcontroller is permanently damaged.

I would expect that it is also possible on the UM2. Order some length of rod and cut it to the right length is not the problem. You will have to look into the motor mount that is used for the UMO. It very likely needs some modification before it fits on the UM2. That is the pioneer work that needs to be done. Can't say how difficult it is but given the fact that I will go to the meeting on Monday I can have a look at the UM2 design. My UMO has this modification.

Hi Dirkels That looks like a big avatar. Quite some colors in it as well. How much time did it take you to print it?

Hi Coen Is heated bed modification + E3D hotend + direct drive + 1 power supply enough :mrgreen: I have to admit I having problems printing at the moment.... Haven't had time to debug it.

You can level very precise but the exact height still depends on the nozzle temperature as well. With temperature the nozzle expands. That is why the piece of paper (0.1mm) room must be there so that at print temperature the nozzle touches the bed. So your tool is probably too exact for this. I guess your CNC machine does not have that temperature limitation.

I take my UMO with me I have extrusion problems with grey colorfab filament. So having a evening with service and maintenance might fit well. Haven't figured out what it is. Actually I don't think it is the colorfab filament being the guilty one since it is good filament. But after some time printing it just does not want to extrude anymore. When I stop the print I can extrude again.... So I am thinking my hotend temperature is incorrect while printing. Still need to debug that. Did some ABS prints before and they worked well. So I will be around.

Making a cabinet will help, but be careful with the XY motors they might not like the warmer ambient temperature. It is easy to put them on the outside, just turn them around and switch the wires.

It really depends on the thermistor. For example the E3D hotend comes standard with a 100k thermistor and it can handle up to 295 degrees according to the manufacturer. I don't know if you have a detailed spec of yours. If so it should be specified.

Did you try to print cold? The feeder motor does not run until you reach a certain temperature in the hotend. This is marlin protection, it does not make sense to run the feeder when cold because you can't extrude. There is a M command that you can give the printer to let the feeder motor run when cold. Or is it something else...

I am also using black um abs. I print at 250. I had 1 clog when I switched from pla to abs. Cleaned the heater/nozzle and it was fine again.

I guess you mean to say: Because of this we usually use thermistors for the heated bed.

Some people have reused the UM heater but it sticks out quite a bit. If you reuse the UM heater then you don't have to change the wiring for the heater. So mechanically reusing the UM heater is not so nice, electrically it is very simple. There is also 1 person who reused the thermocoupler from the UM but you have to take it apart to do so. If you do that then there is no electrical modification needed on the UM electronics. So it just depends or your skills which you prefer. Copy the posted schematic is fine by me but don't blame me if something goes wrong... I know it works since I use it on my machine. I don't think you can reuse the heaterblock since the E3D heaterblock is small by comparison of the UM block. Also the UM nozzle does not fit on the E3D. Out of the top of my head E3D uses M6 bore and UM uses M8 (correct me if I am wrong). If you have the E3D nozzle then the UM nozzle looks big.

Je kan waarschijnlijk ook een heatgun gebruiken. Bij conrad heb ik er ooit een gekocht. Is een verfstripper maar heb ook een opzetstuk voor kleinere straal. Het uitgebreide model is temperatuur instelbaar tussen 50-400graden. Die regeling werkt vrij goed. Bij de juiste temperatuur zal je niet snel problemen krijgen met verbranding.

Hi Amirps. For room temperature it would not matter how it is connected to the heater block. Does the sensor react to higher temperatures in a linear way? Heat it up to know temperatures. If it does that then it looks to me that the characteristic is different then Marlin expects. In know Marlin has a couple different 100K thermistors and it might be the solution is in that area. There are possibilities to calibrate the characteristics but I have no experience in that field. Measuring 11 degrees for room temperature is cold unless it is really cold in the room...

Here are the schematics of my extension boards. The MOSFET I used is not a very special one. It is jsut what I had laying arround. For the 2 fans I did the same. Note I changed 2 of the 10K resistors to 220E resistors since the switching frequency on the fan output is much higher and the capacitance of the mosfet made the circuit slow. So I had no regulation only on off. With the 220E resistors I had good control again. Only the last 30 steps do not work since the darlington transistor on the board saturates.

If you always turn on the PSU and the UM at the same time then you might get away with using the onboard MOSFET and power the heater via your PSU and let the ground be switched by the onboard mosfet. The problem comes when you turn off the UM and let the PSU on. In that case your PS will start to power the UM via the heater and the buildin protection diode on the UM board. That is not what you want. There are 3 solutions to that problem 1) Remove the protection diode and connect it parallel to you heater (close to the UM board since you want to reduce spikes in the leadwires of the heater). 2) Remove the mosfet and make a external switch using that mosfet 3) make a external circuit that solves this issue. I decided for option 3. I have some schematic but I can't get to it from here.

What is the diameter of that filament? What temperature are you using?

It is a linear regulator. That is why it gets so hot. Some people replaced it with a 12V switching regulator but they are a bit pricey.

E3D is designed for printing ABS. Quality wise I don't see much difference with E3D or the stock UM hotend. The difference is the Teflon part that will deform over time when printing with ABS. Mine was 3.1 by 2.9 after half a roll of ABS. That will not happen with E3D. Given the issues with the UM2 hotend I would not print a lot of ABS with the UM2 hotend the Teflon part there also deforms. You have to get into flow modifications to resolve the UM2 hotend issues for printing with ABS. I bought the full kit and I have the fan-duct and the boden tube left over. The question you need to resolve is how to operate the 30mm fan it is 12V and the heater which you can get for 12V or 24V. In your case if the PC PSU has power left over you could run the heater with 12V. Don't operate it on the UM power supply since it is 19V which is way to much. How to connect the hotend to the um hotend output and power it with the extra PSU can be done in many ways. It is similar to the heated bed without using a relay. I made a separate mosfet switch for it to make sure that the 24V that I am using will never power the UM board in case I power down the UM. Using the 'old' 2.85mm ABS is fine I would actually recommend it. I think you could use 3.0 filament since the inside is 3.2mm but I do see people on this forum having issues with it. If you want nice prints use good filament with little tolerance on the diameter.

I had some trouble removing PLA from the e3d hotend. What is the best way? This is what I did for PLA: Set temperature at 120 degrees wait until it reaches 120 and then pull at the extruder end on the filament. Nothing happens. Increase temperature till 150 no success. Increase to printing temp 210. Was able to pull a little but then it got stuck. Removed the boden connection at the e3d side and pulled there. Filament broke and I could not get any hold any more. So I removed the nozzle and tried to push from the top. No success, I can't get through. So the filament is glued on the metal in the cold zone. So I turned of the power so that the 30mm fan does not run any more and the rest heath of the heather heats up the cooler. While pushing down I was able to break through. Clean the mess with a wooden pick and I was able to print again. So what is the best way to change filament. Clearly this was not the way to go.

That ear is a difficult part to get cleanly printed. I would try to print slower. Lets say 25mm/s with the lowest possible temperature.

Thanks Blizz for the idea. I even tried the following: <form action="http://192.168.1.230/d3dapi/config" enctype="x-www-form-urlencoded" method="POST"> <input type="text" name="printer.baudrate" value="250000" </text> <input type="submit"/> </form> With value=250000 Or in the popup edit the text from 250000 to "250000" but none seems to work... Other values seem to work.

Did anybody ever change the baudrate of the doodle3d box? I can't get it to 230400 so I can upgrade my printer from ubuntu. The doodle3d tries 250000 and 115200. The api documention http://www.doodle3d.com/help/api-documentation suggest that it would be possible. I have been able to change for example the printer.temperature. But I am not able to change the baudrate since that is not an integer value but a string. I have no clue on how to do that. I get the following response <form action="http://192.168.1.230/d3dapi/config" enctype="x-www-form-urlencoded" method="POST"> <textarea name="printer.baudrate">"250000"</textarea> <input type="submit"/> </form> Then the response is {"data":{"more_info":"http://doodle3d.com/api","substituted_ssid":"Doodle3D-B12C8C","substituted_wifiboxid":"Doodle3D-B12C8C","validation":{"printer.baudrate":"could not save setting ('Value isn't a valid int or float')"}},"status":"success"} I guess I am missing some elementary html knowledge here but google did not help me yet. So how do I do this?