zoev89
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Posts posted by zoev89
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Nice that you posted your wonderfull solution. For the parts that did not fit anymore I just cutout the corner with a saw. But your parts will be more sturdy. Also note that you are using a 100ml syringe.
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Waarschijnlijk hen je in PLA geprint en dan help aceton zeker niet...
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during the last ulti event there was one person that used the presented parts but instead of pulling with filament she pulled with strong wire through bicycle break tubing. She didn't want to reuse here boden tube. She printed a pully that fit in the large extruder wheel that pulled the wire. Nice bonus is you can let the extruder push like it used to do but instead it pulls. She presented printed cockies.
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Depending on the inside temperature you might want to move the x and y motors to the outside since they will run very hot.
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I created a chapter here
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6820-chocolate-printing/
In material and addons
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I print with a buildplate temperature of 115 degrees which gives me about 100 degrees surface temperature (4mm glas). I have good results with gluestick but I do add a brim to the model. And keep the model warm while printing. Enclose the ultimaker a bit helps. Do check the motors if you enclose, that is why I have them on the outside.
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Do you have something special in the startup code in Cura?
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Als het filament te nat is krijg je stoom vorming in je hotend. Daardoor wordt de doorvoer kortstondig onderbroken. Hierdoor kan je kleine gaatjes in je geprinte voorwerp krijgen. Je kunt dit ook horen als die print je hoort dan kleine knettertjes.
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Is the square water tight? In the cura expert settings you can also play with fix horrible a and b and check if that solves the issue. Looking at the layers in Cura you can see what it will do. If the square can not be found in layer view then it is no use printing it.
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Have you thought about a E3D hotend? If you regularly print ABS is might be an option. Then you don't have to design parts and it has a verity of nozzle sizes. There are already some mounts designed for the um1. If I am not mistaken the axis are the same between um1 and 2 (correct me if I am wrong). You might loose some printer hight since the um2 head is quite compact. Compared against the um1 the latest design is comparable to the original print head I think you even gain a couple of mm in height.
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I also upgraded to direct drive. I used nick his mount and mirrored it in Cura so I can mount it on the left side. I don't see the problems with the nick mount that the motor wobble. Yes if I press on the motor the mount flexes but when the printer is running the is no movement in the mount. Used abs with 25% infill. I used the Marlin software and my actual printing area is no 210x210. As chopmeister said I removed the back limit switch and let software do it. I bought new axis at conrad. I have mounted the pullies the other way around and that gave me the extra room.
Here you see also that the pulllies are the other way around then default:
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I have done it!
E3D is printing
I used the mount from Rai and the documentation from Jonny. Added the Alan xy blocks and used Nick his direct drive mount and bought 2 new axis by Conrad. All parts printed in black ultimaker ABS. I mirrored Nick his drive mount so I can use it on the back left side. My power supply is already sticking out on that side.
I had some trouble with the xy blocks since they broke when I pressed the bearing in. I just glued them and I will see how long they hold. Also the fans are a little close to the heater so I glued some alu foil on it.
I used the thermocouple of the e3d so I just added a 4k7 resistor and conected the thermistor on the yellow and black wire. I run the heater on 24V so I asked E3D to swap the heater for a 24V version and that was no issue. Good service and also good packing for postage and clear web instructions from E3D!
I run all the fans on 12V from a separate DC DC converter. So I can have the small 30mm cooling fan still running even when I reset the ultimaker (nice bonus if you run into trouble while printing just turn the machine of the cooling fan will take care that the hotend cold part does not heath-up).
I made 2 small circuits, 1 for the heater and 1 for the fans to adapt the 19V signal coming from the ultimaker. They are designed in such a way that even if the ultimaker is powered off there is no power going into the ultimaker board due to the protection diodes in the ultimaker board.
Actually the 40mm fans are a bit of a overkill I think, when they both go on at full speed dust will be blown away in the area where you are printing. So 30mm should be enough but then you need to redesign the fan mounts.
Here some images
Also the drive mount.
Asn my first print. I played with the retraction left is with 2mm and right with 2.5mm. Actually left I is 0.1mm layer hight and played with the temperature and speed while printing but the head bumped into the part to often so it let lose from the platform. Right is 0.2 layer hight and 70mm/s speed and 210 degrees. This was a little to fast so I got under extrusion for the flat bottom part of the print. Foto's are without any postprocessing.
I think the result is not bad given the fact that it is a retraction active part to print and I printed it with PLA as a test for retraction.
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Geen ervaring mee. Klink als goedkoop=duurkoop. Vaak staat er ook niet bij welke diameter het is. Als er geen spec van 2.85mm bijstaat blijf ik weg.
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Hout filament moet je met een 0.4 nozzel wel oppassen dat die niet te lang heet is zonder te printen...
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My votes are done did my share or supporting ultimaker.
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I did a print with 0.3 during a ultievening at 50mm/s. The component was usable but had quite a bit underextrusion. I increased the flow to i think 110% and also i speededup to 130% at places due to the limited time. I think i printed at 230.
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I just checked on my machine it is al leaded component. So it is possible to replace it. But as Illuminarti said the quickest is to solder the wires directly on the 2 pins that are sticking out.
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Can't see well enough but it looks like that the connector is ripped of the board.Is the connector a leaded component or a surface mount component? (can't check it since I am not at home). If it is surface mount it will be easier to solder the wires directly to the board. If it is a leaded component then replace the connector.
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I have been printing for some time at 250 degrees (ABS prints) and last night when I took my hotend apart I saw that the teflon part is already deformed. The inner hole is 2.9x3.1mm... Already noticed that the extrusen speed was already noticable lower. Did not have under extrusion with 40mm/s at 0.1 layers and now I do when it is filling in large flat areas.
So I agree with nallath.
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Thanks Jonny,
I will try using Kapton tape. Fortunately I still have some.
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I just measured mine and it 100K when not connected.
Yes I just received my hotend so I am also in that building process. I just found out that the fit of the bearings and the printed part from RAI is not a tight fit. I can easily mode the bearing in and out. Shout I put some glue between the bearing and the housing? Or do something else?
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Trouble shooting when print is not the way you want it. Which parameters do you change first. The website from IRobert is a good leading point.
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Can you do a resistance measurement? I don't have the schematic handy but one of the terminals should connect to ground and the other should connect to 5V with the 4k7 resistor. And between you should measure about 100K. If you do that on the board connectors you know if the wire-ring is ok.
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Also some XT material was in it.
Hot Bed UM1
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Do I understand correctly that the relay does not turn on/off? You connected the relay on the heathbed output? Please note that the mosfet driving the relay is driving it to ground. Post your wiring.