zoev89

Can't see well enough but it looks like that the connector is ripped of the board.Is the connector a leaded component or a surface mount component? (can't check it since I am not at home). If it is surface mount it will be easier to solder the wires directly to the board. If it is a leaded component then replace the connector.

I have been printing for some time at 250 degrees (ABS prints) and last night when I took my hotend apart I saw that the teflon part is already deformed. The inner hole is 2.9x3.1mm... Already noticed that the extrusen speed was already noticable lower. Did not have under extrusion with 40mm/s at 0.1 layers and now I do when it is filling in large flat areas. So I agree with nallath.

Thanks Jonny, I will try using Kapton tape. Fortunately I still have some.

I just measured mine and it 100K when not connected. Yes I just received my hotend so I am also in that building process. I just found out that the fit of the bearings and the printed part from RAI is not a tight fit. I can easily mode the bearing in and out. Shout I put some glue between the bearing and the housing? Or do something else?

Trouble shooting when print is not the way you want it. Which parameters do you change first. The website from IRobert is a good leading point.

Can you do a resistance measurement? I don't have the schematic handy but one of the terminals should connect to ground and the other should connect to 5V with the 4k7 resistor. And between you should measure about 100K. If you do that on the board connectors you know if the wire-ring is ok.

Also some XT material was in it.

Back/left that is exactly my thinking as well. That is why I mirrored nicks design. I do found out that the screws of the limitswitch is in the way. Is that also the case for you? ahhhh now I know what those screws are for.... Well the machine is already running for 3 months.... Will see how that ends up.

Hi mbartels That does indeed not sound promising. I think I printed my version with 30% but with ABS in this case ABS is usually more flexible.... It is good to know about the rods not being damaged though. The artefact you talk about does ring a bell and could very well be related to slack in the drive system. Which in your case would be the mount. Are the motors tight enough mounted? Interestingly nobody mentioned having this kind of problem yet.

Was the rod damaged at the original location where the grub screw mounted the pully? Since that 'scar' moves it might damage the slider block. Or is the damage so light that it is no issue. I am also preparing the same modification. I don't think that the flexability in nick his design is an issue as long as the motor does not tilt. Don't think that 100% infill helps. What kind of plastic did you use?

The nozzle will have oxidation quite quickly using solder wire. Just look at the old copper soldering iron's. Only if you have a high quality soldering tip with a special protection layer the solder does not deteriorate the point. So I would guess the same would apply for a printing nozzle. And sure liquid solder does like to stick to the tip. Material properties are quite different, on the other hand the idea is a nice one. Likely with the proper materials it could be done I guess.

Don't over do the tightening it does not need that thight. Obvious you just had it a bit too little. The brass pipe can break! For cleaning up that PLA I can not help that much cause I use ABS and that can be dissolved. Some people burn it off with a small burner. I tried burning off ABS and that did not work well, dissolving worked better but that hardly works with PLA unless you go with some serious chemicals so I would rather not do that. I guess I would try to manually remove as much as possible when heated and then assemble it again and heatup and tighten it and manual feed some filament. I guess 1 time atomic (heatup to 220 and cooldown to 90 and remove the fileament quickly) removal of filament might be helpfull to make sure to remove possible junk. They claim that you can remove the filament at 90 degrees but I did not succeed with PLA, I went to 120 degrees and then it still breaks but at least you get quite deep. I need to do the atomic removal when I switch form ABS to PLA at least 2 times to make sure all the ABS is gone it clogs at 220 degrees.

Interresting, I just mirrored Nick's design to mount it on the same location. Didn't want to move the extruder, keep it open for dual extrusion if I ever want that. I only found out later that I will have problems with the mounting of the limit switch (the screws will hit the bracket) that is located in that corner. Don't know yet how to fix it since I am waiting for parts to arrive before I proceed. Meduza did you buy new axis or did you use some of extension mounts?

mmm I am missing all the colors for printing a badge....

It looks like the wire was lose during operation and heated up the connector until it started burning. It is not the 120 degrees that cause this but the loose connection. I also see that the connection to relay is badly soldered so you would need to solder that one as well. I am afraid that you have to replace the connector. If you can't find a new connection you could solder the wires directly to the contacts at the bottom. A lose connection can easily heat up like that. The heated bed does take quite some current and if there is a weak contact it will burn.

Post processing of ABS is easier. But printing ABS is more difficult. Adhesion is more error prone and the shrinkage is also a concern. The details don't shine out as much as PLA does. Glueing ABS is easier. So it really depends on what you need.

I am coming too!

Hi Anon, Well the spec of the power supply is saying 105 to 135% overload to rated output power (this gives you almost always 300W). So if you would overload it for a short time then it will probably not shut down immediately. And of cause the wiring and the on resistance of the mosfet if you use one also does something. But as you see that 280W is well spend...

Hi Anon, Thanks for doing a actual measurement so we have some quantitative data. I can't measure it since I use aluminium clad resistors. Well your numbers are quite right. Lets assume you use a 24V power supply then you get the following power profile deg res power 24 1.9 303 60 2.15 268 100 2.45 235 So that is quite some variation and well within the 20-30% difference going from room temperature to 100 degrees. And as you see the power supply requirements are large. I just realize the power consumption difference is not quadratic as I mentioned before it is linear.

I change the setting in Cura not the model, I leave the model at 0.4mm. Possibly the same could be done the other way around as you mention keep 0.4mm in Cura and change model to 0.41 mm or something like that, I did not test that so I don't know if it works.

If you have a part that is only 0.4mm thick it is sometimes difficult to make sure that Cura prints it. I sometimes reduce the Shell Thickness to 0.39 or 0.38. Even with that I still get a part that is thicker then 0.4mm. 0.6 or 0.7mm is what I get. It might also depend on the material.

Also note that a PCB heater has a positive temperature coefficient. So the higher the temperature the higher the resistance. Now I don't know how these boards are specified but at room temperature or at 100 degrees can make about 20 to 30% difference in resistance. Meaning that your power supply must be able to deliver that extra squared! So if the resistance drops 20% the amount of extra power needed is a factor 1.56.. So when the design needs 200W at 100 degrees than count on a power supply of about 300W for getting it started at room temperature. This is one of the disadvantages of PCB heaters. It is also the cause of many power supplies failing. The advantage is quicker heating up. As anon4321 mentioned the voltage drop in the wires helps him so if you find that you are at the edge of what your power supply can do using thinner wires might help you out. It is counter intuitive that is true. I also had power supply problems since I needed to increase the amount of power because 25 minutes waiting to reach 115 degrees was a bit long. Now I pump about 240W into the bed and this reduced it to about 15 minutes. (6mm aluminium takes its time but it remains flat). So I have a 400W 24V power supply and I also run my machine from that power supply using a dc dc convert to 19 volt. So I only have 1 power cord. Getting the right amount of power in the bed with the right power supply is not a simple task. .

Hi Matis, I think you are correct I don't think you have a adhesion issue so using ABS juce is not at hand. Your problem seems more that the abs does not sick together. Please note my print speed is 40mm/s and comparable temperatures. I never stressed my machine for speed so I would not know where the limit is (I don't care as long as the result is fine). I do have my printer enclosed to avoid draft and a little higher ambient temperature.

Not in Cura. The easiest way would be to just add a small disk to your model where it needs the brim. Instead of looking for a tool that can generate it for you.

I use black ultimaker abs at 250 degrees and bed at 115 (compensate for the thick glass) and for 0.1mm layer height I use 40mm/s printspeed and 40% fan. Do you have any idea on the quality of your ABS?