zoev89

Ha I found the answer I think somewhere on the forum. Its 130 degrees for abs.

To which temperature do you need to cooll down before you can try to pull the filament out? For pla it seems 90 is good but when I do it with abs there is no way I can pull it out at 90. So for abs I heatup untill abs comes out then I cool down but when I wait till 90 I can't get it out. It is possible at higher temp but what would be the sweet spot for abs. I think removing the material last night caused me a blocked nozzle. I tried atomic a couple of times at 120 degrees but now my filament breaks at the top.

Bahhhh I just have a blocked nozzle. Its my first. Well I will follow the advise on this forum. Put a wire in the nozzle while hot and then let it cool and remove the filament. Hope it helps

Thanks Sander for the update. I will bring a syringe and I will have to remove the ABS that I am currently printing (always a risk of clogging). And bring some PLA and make sure the printer is in working order before leaving on Monday. I am quite curious how it will work out. Printing in ABS is not so good at the moment since I am experimenting with adhesion.

The tools part is also unclear to me. How far do we need to take the UM apart to do this proposed hack?

Openscad also has a simular bitmap feature.

Hi Sander, I plan to come and I will bring my machine. Any idea what kind of tools we need for the hacks? (twee linker handen :???: )

It is actually quite simple. Cura did already all the work. What you need to do. On the PC where you play minecraft install Cura. Then start Cura and go to tools->Minecraft map import you select your landscape and you get a overview of your landscape. The select a area that you want to print. Click on the import button and you will notice that a model will be on your platform. Scale it to the size you want and optimize your printer settings depended on the module. Here are some photos of my sons building: It is a small building I did not want to waist to much plastic and time but it worked out very well. It is printed in gold PLA with 0.1 layers. The only thing I did is to open the 'door' again (drilled it and filed it) since I used a support everywhere. Was afraid that the roof would not work well.

Just a thought.. If you would allow to execute a simple script or even a part of gcode that is stored on the SD card it would open a very flexible way of doing all kinds of stuff. In your case pause execute script when done resume print.

Hi fwgdocs, For the cube pro I would say also check the price of the filament. The machine sounds nice but the filament kept me away from that company.

A nice idea for the kids is the Minecraft import, buildin by Cura. My son just printed his building from minecraft. Building in minecraft is simple but the overall result you can get is quite attractive. You do need to run Cura on the computer that also runs minecraft. So in my case I installed Cura on his computer edited the settings and now he can do it again if he wants to.

Hi Callum, No I did not implement your idea. But I do think it is the cheapest way of doing it if you dare to take out the mosfet. In my case the UM mosfet is still there it just lights the diode in my optocoupler.

DSM works fine to generate STL that Cura understands. It is easy to learn. I used it for some time until DSM decided to not save the design files anymore (I have a old windows xp machine).... Now I am using openscad note I am a programmer so I don't mind using a editor to generate objects. There are also tricks to also allow editing of STL files for DSM (that is the part were my system got the problems, don't know if it is related though).

Sorry for my English I can't write German but I can read it... If the price is a motivation you could also look at the UM original. Given the fact that you are doing Hobby Modelbau putting it together might not be a problem. The difference between UM original and UM 2 is not that large. The missing heated bed in UM original is a minus but there are lot options that to add that. I do warn about the lead times just check this forum. But if you can wait the Original is still a wonderful machine.

No I do not run the heated bed from the board. I run it from 24V. As Callum mentioned you could remove the mosfet from the board and operate it external (Don't like to put 10A of power through that board). That is the cheapest solution. Or you can make a small board like I have done. This is the schematic: The parts are not that critical. I just used what I had handy. For the N mosfet it is important to select one with a on resistance of less than 10 mOhm. My mosfet has 10mOhm and it still gets a little warm when heating up. So I just added a little heathsink. Actually in the setup right now it is not needed to have the optical isolation in there (in my case the PS2561). Since I now run everything from 1 powersupply (The UM board and the heated bed share the same ground).

I have my printer now also working on 1 24V powersupply. I didn't want to run the UM board at 24V since the fans and the hotend would not like the 24V. I bought a small DC DC converter at Markplaats (Frank good service). This converter willl go to 19V so I don't need to change anything on the printer. Here a photo of the electronics jungle at the bottom including the DC DC converter: And this is how I connected the 19V output of the converter to the UM board. I can still use the switch to power on/off the UM. My powersupply takes 6W in idle mode and when the printer is powered in idle it is drawing total of 15W.

Its 30 °C here in my room and I get nothing done... :oops: Even the printer is idle.

Hi DonMilne As a UM orginal user I just grab the z axis coupler and turn it the direction I want it to go to do the adjustment while printing. Having something in the software would be nice... In my case the Z axis has some variation so from print to print it might be different. Eric

My 20 cent solution for the time being would be: For the 12V relay you could add a 47Ohm 1 watt resistor in series to bring the voltage down to about 12V. I just checked the spec on the link and it says 12-14V coil current. So if I take the middle of that I calculate with 13V. So you need to drop 19.5-13=6.5V. The spec also mentions the current the relay draws. It is 133mA. So you can calculate the resistance you need by 6.5/0.133= 48.8 Ohm. Well the now match it with available values and you get 47Ohm. So the relay will get about 13.2V on the coil which is still according to the spec. Make sure to buy a 1W version since it will dissipate about 0.133*0.133*47=0.83W. Personally I don't like those kind of relays but it will work. Since the relays need to switch quite some power and also regularly they do weir out.

@3DGuy For me it is difficult to translate text into schematics but for your point 7, yes it does matter. Check the wiki http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Heated_Bed And you can see which terminal is positive and which is negative. The fly back diode in that schematic should block. So the top of the schematic is the 19V and the bottom is the switched ground.

In principle your part list look ok apart from the SSR-relay. If I read your posted schematic it shows that it expects AC current and it looks like that you want to use it with a 12V DC power. That will not work, the triac that is used will not turn off. It will turn on all right but it will not turn off until the moment the input voltage drops to 0 (the zero crossing). That is the problem with these solid state relays there are so many types that it quickly becomes confusing.

@Drayson I am using aluminium clad resistors. They are 2.2 Ohm 50Watt. I have made 2 parallel strings of 3 resistors in series. I use a 200W 24 power supply which I increased to about 26V. This gives me about 200W to my aluminium bed. It heats up slowly since the aluminium is 6mm thick (but it is flat). It takes about 5 min to 60 degrees and 25 minutes to get to 130 degrees (10 degrees loss if you use a glass plate). I would like also to heat it a bit quicker but I would have to buy a bigger power brick. Since it is working and given the fact that it does not heat-up so quickly it is also fairly safe. You can look on my website for fotos and the electronics I used. http://www.modelbouwensport.nl/3DPrinter/HeatedBuildPlatform.html

Hi Drayson, Don't worry to match on the runaway the resistance of your Ni-Cr wire in the pad has a positive temperature coefficient. So by increasing temperature the resistance goes up. Not so much as with PCB heaters but it does not self destruct so easily. Finding the right power supply is always a little guesswork since you want to heat it fast. As a general rule of thump the faster it heats up the bigger the problem is when the temperature regulation fails.

I should not worry to much about 18 or 19V. You could use 'thin' wiring and you easily lose 0.5 or even more. And in principle it is temperature controlled. You only need to know the spec of the heater to which temperature you can drive it. Is it safe till 120 degrees (can me nice for ABS) or something like that or are you planning to stay to max 60?

Hi Drayson, First make sure that you know the resistance of the heater. You say is it 1.5 Ohm but check if it is not temperature depended. For example a PCB heater (I see you use a silicon heater) draws much more current when cold so the power supply must be able to cope with that. Yep you are right I think that 19.5V 16.9A is probably to little for double extrusion. One thing that you need to consider as well even if you find a larger 19V power supply do you really like to do that. I don't know how you operate the bed but it takes a lot of power which goes on and off. Do you really like to have that on 1 psu? My feeling (this is personal) is that having a separate unit guaranties that if the bed power supply dyes the um is not effected. On the other hand I think that UM 2 does the same thing on 1 power supply. I made my bed with a separate power unit (24V 200W). I even optically isolated it from the UM (didn't like the relay option). So no possible interference with the machine.