Jump to content

zoev89

Dormant
  • Posts

    476
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Posts posted by zoev89

  1. It is actually quite simple. Cura did already all the work. What you need to do. On the PC where you play minecraft install Cura. Then start Cura and go to tools->Minecraft map import you select your landscape and you get a overview of your landscape. The select a area that you want to print. Click on the import button and you will notice that a model will be on your platform. Scale it to the size you want and optimize your printer settings depended on the module.

    Here are some photos of my sons building:

    MineCraftFront

     

    It is a small building I did not want to waist to much plastic and time but it worked out very well.

     

    MineCraftSide

    It is printed in gold PLA with 0.1 layers. The only thing I did is to open the 'door' again (drilled it and filed it) since I used a support everywhere. Was afraid that the roof would not work well.

     

  2. A nice idea for the kids is the Minecraft import, buildin by Cura. My son just printed his building from minecraft. Building in minecraft is simple but the overall result you can get is quite attractive. You do need to run Cura on the computer that also runs minecraft. So in my case I installed Cura on his computer edited the settings and now he can do it again if he wants to.

     

  3. DSM works fine to generate STL that Cura understands. It is easy to learn. I used it for some time until DSM decided to not save the design files anymore (I have a old windows xp machine).... Now I am using openscad note I am a programmer so I don't mind using a editor to generate objects.

    There are also tricks to also allow editing of STL files for DSM (that is the part were my system got the problems, don't know if it is related though).

     

  4. Sorry for my English I can't write German but I can read it...

    If the price is a motivation you could also look at the UM original. Given the fact that you are doing Hobby Modelbau putting it together might not be a problem. The difference between UM original and UM 2 is not that large. The missing heated bed in UM original is a minus but there are lot options that to add that. I do warn about the lead times just check this forum. But if you can wait the Original is still a wonderful machine.

     

  5. No I do not run the heated bed from the board. I run it from 24V. As Callum mentioned you could remove the mosfet from the board and operate it external (Don't like to put 10A of power through that board). That is the cheapest solution. Or you can make a small board like I have done. This is the schematic:

    My heated bed ssr

    The parts are not that critical. I just used what I had handy. For the N mosfet it is important to select one with a on resistance of less than 10 mOhm. My mosfet has 10mOhm and it still gets a little warm when heating up. So I just added a little heathsink.

    Actually in the setup right now it is not needed to have the optical isolation in there (in my case the PS2561). Since I now run everything from 1 powersupply (The UM board and the heated bed share the same ground).

     

  6. I have my printer now also working on 1 24V powersupply. I didn't want to run the UM board at 24V since the fans and the hotend would not like the 24V. I bought a small DC DC converter at Markplaats (Frank good service). This converter willl go to 19V so I don't need to change anything on the printer.

    Here a photo of the electronics jungle at the bottom including the DC DC converter:

     

    ElectronicsAtTheBottom

     

    And this is how I connected the 19V output of the converter to the UM board. I can still use the switch to power on/off the UM.

     

    The19VConnection

    My powersupply takes 6W in idle mode and when the printer is powered in idle it is drawing total of 15W.

     

  7.  

    Hi DonMilne

    As a UM orginal user I just grab the z axis coupler and turn it the direction I want it to go to do the adjustment while printing. Having something in the software would be nice... In my case the Z axis has some variation so from print to print it might be different.

    Eric

     

  8. My 20 cent solution for the time being would be:

    For the 12V relay you could add a 47Ohm 1 watt resistor in series to bring the voltage down to about 12V. I just checked the spec on the link and it says 12-14V coil current. So if I take the middle of that I calculate with 13V. So you need to drop 19.5-13=6.5V. The spec also mentions the current the relay draws. It is 133mA. So you can calculate the resistance you need by 6.5/0.133= 48.8 Ohm. Well the now match it with available values and you get 47Ohm. So the relay will get about 13.2V on the coil which is still according to the spec. Make sure to buy a 1W version since it will dissipate about 0.133*0.133*47=0.83W.

    Personally I don't like those kind of relays but it will work. Since the relays need to switch quite some power and also regularly they do weir out.

     

  9. In principle your part list look ok apart from the SSR-relay. If I read your posted schematic it shows that it expects AC current and it looks like that you want to use it with a 12V DC power. That will not work, the triac that is used will not turn off. It will turn on all right but it will not turn off until the moment the input voltage drops to 0 (the zero crossing). That is the problem with these solid state relays there are so many types that it quickly becomes confusing.

     

  10. @Drayson

    I am using aluminium clad resistors. They are 2.2 Ohm 50Watt. I have made 2 parallel strings of 3 resistors in series. I use a 200W 24 power supply which I increased to about 26V. This gives me about 200W to my aluminium bed. It heats up slowly since the aluminium is 6mm thick (but it is flat). It takes about 5 min to 60 degrees and 25 minutes to get to 130 degrees (10 degrees loss if you use a glass plate). I would like also to heat it a bit quicker but I would have to buy a bigger power brick. Since it is working and given the fact that it does not heat-up so quickly it is also fairly safe. You can look on my website for fotos and the electronics I used.

    http://www.modelbouwensport.nl/3DPrinter/HeatedBuildPlatform.html

     

  11. Hi Drayson,

    Don't worry to match on the runaway the resistance of your Ni-Cr wire in the pad has a positive temperature coefficient. So by increasing temperature the resistance goes up. Not so much as with PCB heaters but it does not self destruct so easily. Finding the right power supply is always a little guesswork since you want to heat it fast. As a general rule of thump the faster it heats up the bigger the problem is when the temperature regulation fails.

     

  12. Hi Drayson,

    First make sure that you know the resistance of the heater. You say is it 1.5 Ohm but check if it is not temperature depended. For example a PCB heater (I see you use a silicon heater) draws much more current when cold so the power supply must be able to cope with that.

    Yep you are right I think that 19.5V 16.9A is probably to little for double extrusion. One thing that you need to consider as well even if you find a larger 19V power supply do you really like to do that. I don't know how you operate the bed but it takes a lot of power which goes on and off. Do you really like to have that on 1 psu? My feeling (this is personal) is that having a separate unit guaranties that if the bed power supply dyes the um is not effected. On the other hand I think that UM 2 does the same thing on 1 power supply.

    I made my bed with a separate power unit (24V 200W). I even optically isolated it from the UM (didn't like the relay option). So no possible interference with the machine.

     

  13. I don't know if it is related but I experimented with the unlocking in DSM and didn't get it work (unlock). After that I can not save design files any more (rsdoc files). I already uninstalled the packedge and installed it again but that didn't help. So now I have a not working designspark... Have no clue in how to resolve that one. Probably the registry got corrupted and is not restored during reinstall. Also the repair functionally in the installer did not help. It gave me an error.

    In the meantime I have switched to FreeCad since I do want to be able to design parts...

     

  14. The quickest solution is buying a simple glas plate from the local hardware store. Cut it a little smaller then the heatbed so it does not crack due to temperature differences. I don't know the right thickness as of yet since my 2mm glassplate bended after printing some abs parts. Of cause you can buy special heat resistant glas more expensive but that can also bend...

    With the normal glass you can experiment and if it breaks getting a new one is not that difficult. If it is removable there is always a chance that you break it.

  15. Well tonight I had a night where everything fails...

    First I wanted to change something simple on the model I am working on. Then desigspark told me it could not save the file due to a missing dll. What ever I do I can't change the file or any design (need to reinstall that one I guess). I could save the stl though. So I ran the model through cura and saved the gcode. In the meantime my printer is warmed up. So I check the leveling of the bed because I still have some issues. Every time I need to adjust when I start a print. Well I found the source.. The 2mm glas is not flat anymore. The aluminum under it still is. So I guess printing on 2mm glass does not work over time. I still had some steel sheet so I throw that on the bed. I discarded it from previous attempts because it thought it is not flat enough, well it is better then the glass right now. So I tried printing again... poor adhesion. Yep I never tested it with abs yet. So try again add some glue. Now there is something strange it seems it is not extruding well. Lots of hairs and small tracks. Stop that print. Try extruding by hand everything fine. So start again. Extrusion fine, part is lifting from the bed. :???:

    I guess it is time to got to bed.....

     

  16. I am printing Ultimaker Black ABS on a UM original. This is what I have used sofar.

    Head = 250 degrees

    Bed = 130 bed first layer then 110 (I lose about 10 degrees) and I use glue and a brim

    Fan = 0% later 40% if needed I do this on the controller

    Flow = 100%

    Speed = 40mm/s

    Layerhight = 0.2

    I enclosed the printer to keep the part warm (no heating the heating is provided by the bed)

    I guess there is still room for improvement since the parts are usable but could be better.

     

  17. The velleman printer looks nice and the price difference is quite bit. I don't own a velleman so I can't say how well it is but I have seen one printing in utrecht in a stand from conrad. I was not impressed by the quality of the print output. It was printing something so at least it was operational but the result was not to my liking. I can't say that it was the best that the printer can do. That was the reason to look at alternatives for me. I have a um original kit and I get better results then what I have seen there and I am still a newbie.

    This my view:

    Pros velleman

    Quickly available.

    Lower price.

    Heated bed

    Pros ultimaker

    Better quality and don't worry about the wooden frame it is good.

    If you like hacking the printer it is the way to go.

    Con velleman

    what I have seen of the build quality I was not impressed.

    If you want to print abs you would need to do something about that open frame, more difficult to close then the UM

    Check the forums there are problems with the drive of the extruder though some people found alternatives.

    Con ultimaker

    Depending on the filament you use spend extra money on a heated bed.

    Lots of modifications possible

    The long wait for delivery.

    For me it was um but that is also why I am here.....

     

×
×
  • Create New...