zoev89

I don't know if it is related but I experimented with the unlocking in DSM and didn't get it work (unlock). After that I can not save design files any more (rsdoc files). I already uninstalled the packedge and installed it again but that didn't help. So now I have a not working designspark... Have no clue in how to resolve that one. Probably the registry got corrupted and is not restored during reinstall. Also the repair functionally in the installer did not help. It gave me an error. In the meantime I have switched to FreeCad since I do want to be able to design parts...

Hi Jerry welcome to the forum, watching your videos really helps understanding the technology. Keep up the good work. Greetings from The Netherlands

The quickest solution is buying a simple glas plate from the local hardware store. Cut it a little smaller then the heatbed so it does not crack due to temperature differences. I don't know the right thickness as of yet since my 2mm glassplate bended after printing some abs parts. Of cause you can buy special heat resistant glas more expensive but that can also bend... With the normal glass you can experiment and if it breaks getting a new one is not that difficult. If it is removable there is always a chance that you break it.

An other simple solution would be to add a 2.2 ohm resistor in serie and you can connect it on the 19V. In my case I would put the excess heat from the resistor in my heated bed. I do not yet know if output transistors would be able to handle the larger current.

Well tonight I had a night where everything fails... First I wanted to change something simple on the model I am working on. Then desigspark told me it could not save the file due to a missing dll. What ever I do I can't change the file or any design (need to reinstall that one I guess). I could save the stl though. So I ran the model through cura and saved the gcode. In the meantime my printer is warmed up. So I check the leveling of the bed because I still have some issues. Every time I need to adjust when I start a print. Well I found the source.. The 2mm glas is not flat anymore. The aluminum under it still is. So I guess printing on 2mm glass does not work over time. I still had some steel sheet so I throw that on the bed. I discarded it from previous attempts because it thought it is not flat enough, well it is better then the glass right now. So I tried printing again... poor adhesion. Yep I never tested it with abs yet. So try again add some glue. Now there is something strange it seems it is not extruding well. Lots of hairs and small tracks. Stop that print. Try extruding by hand everything fine. So start again. Extrusion fine, part is lifting from the bed. :???: I guess it is time to got to bed.....

I am printing Ultimaker Black ABS on a UM original. This is what I have used sofar. Head = 250 degrees Bed = 130 bed first layer then 110 (I lose about 10 degrees) and I use glue and a brim Fan = 0% later 40% if needed I do this on the controller Flow = 100% Speed = 40mm/s Layerhight = 0.2 I enclosed the printer to keep the part warm (no heating the heating is provided by the bed) I guess there is still room for improvement since the parts are usable but could be better.

The velleman printer looks nice and the price difference is quite bit. I don't own a velleman so I can't say how well it is but I have seen one printing in utrecht in a stand from conrad. I was not impressed by the quality of the print output. It was printing something so at least it was operational but the result was not to my liking. I can't say that it was the best that the printer can do. That was the reason to look at alternatives for me. I have a um original kit and I get better results then what I have seen there and I am still a newbie. This my view: Pros velleman Quickly available. Lower price. Heated bed Pros ultimaker Better quality and don't worry about the wooden frame it is good. If you like hacking the printer it is the way to go. Con velleman what I have seen of the build quality I was not impressed. If you want to print abs you would need to do something about that open frame, more difficult to close then the UM Check the forums there are problems with the drive of the extruder though some people found alternatives. Con ultimaker Depending on the filament you use spend extra money on a heated bed. Lots of modifications possible The long wait for delivery. For me it was um but that is also why I am here.....

Also reduce your heated bed temperature. Default of 75 is to high for PLA. Something like 60 works for me but I have a own build bed. Did you also clean the bed from fingerprints? If you still have problems try to apply the glue stick or a 1 part woodglue (that white stuff that is solvable in water) + 2 or 3 parts water solution as a very thin layer.

Hi Andrea, Sorry to hear that it takes so long. I was also an unfortunate one where the delivery took a little more then 11 weeks for the UM original kit. The only thing that I can recommend is to call and explain what is happening. I know from my own experience that it is a tough call to hang in limbo land. There seems to be no reliable method to get a correct delivery date. It drives you nuts when you hear delivery in 2 or 3 days and it does not happen (it happened to me 2 times the 3 time it got delivered). I hope you soon get relief by getting the shipment email.

Thanks, So it is defined behavior and not a bug. And as you say it is weird when you watch it, that is exactly what happened to me...

For PWM you switch on and off x times per second (40 or 100 times). A simple relay can not switch that fast. So in PWM you regulate the duty cycle. And in bang bang you turn on until the temperature is reached, and when it gets too cold you switch on again. This typically takes x amount of seconds.

I have a question about the multiple objects feature. I wanted to print multiple objects all at once with a brim. When I started the print I saw that it was first printing the brim of all objects and then later it would print the bottom layer of the objects. I was not expecting this. At the time I had issues with leveling the build plate so every object needed a small interaction. This caused the print to fail. If it was printing the brim and the first layer in 1 go per object I might have succeeded. Is this a setting in Cura to first print all brims and then the bottom layer? In the meantime I have been able to fix the leveling of my build plate. It was actually not the build plate but the printerhead that was sagging in the middle due to too lose sliderblocks.

Ha we nailed it down! It is just a form of under extrusion. It is apparently not able to push more filament through the nozzle. I just reduced the printing speed to 40mm/s and let the temperature back to the original 220 and the print comes out fine. I don't have to increase the flow anymore. So with the blue default ultimaker pla I am not able to extrude much more then 4mm^3/sec and at 3.2mm^3/sec it seems fine. Just as Gr5 said he is able to extrude at 4 mm^3/sec but with a little bit of underextrusion and that is exactly what happened here. You can't see it on the sides but you do see it on horizontal surfaces. The reason why the very first layer was fine was just due to the fact that the default there is bottom layer speed = 20mm/s. :mrgreen: Nice, thanks for all the advise I learned a lot as newbie.

Hi Yellowshark and Gr5, The infill is 15%. And I don't think it is the infill issue here so much. Because I see similar things happening at the bottom layer. It does not matter there at all since I don't see it when the print is finished. The first layer is squashed into the bed so perfect. Then the next 2 3 layers are fine and then slowly the small holes appear just the same as the top layer. I increased the top and bottom thickness to 1.2mm. Is that still to little? To me it more sounds like under extrusion when using 0.2mm layers. Could it be that I have missed a setting in cura when increasing the layer hight from 0.1 to 0.2mm? Or could it be that the platform is not lowering with 0.2mm but more. On the other hand the hight of the models look ok (I only have data for the first 1 or 2 cm, haven't printed higher).

To be honest I have to say that PID regulation might be a little better than bang bang but it also works quite well. I build head bed with a mosfet in bang bang mode. Temperature stays within 2 degrees. Using PID might get a little less deviation if you find the right PID parameters which is not an easy task. And yes you still have to supply a 4k7 resistor for the temperature control if using the 100K thermistor (have a quite new UM1 board here). The temperature readout is correct. When I measure with other means I get about 5% accurate readings. I posted a schematic on the mosfet part on http://www.modelbouwensport.nl/3DPrinter/3DPrinter.html The parts that I used were quite random choice. It is what I had laying around (except the power resistors and the power supply). For the mosfet I checked the 'on' resistance is lower than 0.01 Ohm otherwise I would have to cool it, now I don't.

Hi yellowshark, Well the stringing is very likely caused by the high temperature I agree on that part. If I look at GR5 his tests they show that high temperature can cause stringing. But the holes on the top layer that was still unexplained. I have been able to improve it by increasing the temperature but that had only a little effect but the largest effect was the flow to 108%. Possible this could be solved an other way or as you say an other problem is hiding it but we have not yet been able to pinpoint it. I am open to suggestions. I still need to print an other part with similar issues.

I moved the image to the gallery and updated the original post. So that was a learning experience. The last print of this object (I needed 3 of them) was perfect with 240 and 108%. Then I wanted to print a other object and it failed. The print lifted from the bed. I guess I have to clean my bed after about 5 prints. I will first try cleaning it and if that does not help add a small layer of PV glue.

Oscar giving feedback about orders is not the strongest point of UM (yet). When you read the forum you will also notice that quite some people also report that orders are delivered. In case you worry call them. On the phone they will certainly try to help you. My order was somehow forgotten and in the end I waited 11 weeks, but I got what I ordered. I know having patience is a hard call. Hope you soon can say order received.

Yesterdays evening print printed a little better I had the flow changed from 100 to 108% and the temperature to 240 for the top layer. This resulted in a large improvement not perfect there are still some small holes. I checked the short and long belts as far as the sound is the tone is about right. So I think that the x,y directions are ok. I also don't see artifacts on corners that would indicate belt issues. I will move the image to the utlimaker website (will take some time since I can't do it tonight) eventhough it was posted on my personal website. But who knows what will change in 10 years from now

The filament is 2.9mm at the location it is printing right now. So it is a little thicker then the 2.85 setting. While it is printing right now I see that the small holes are coming again. I just found in the tune menu the flow parameter. I increased it from 100 to 106. Lets see what is happening..

Hi Gr5, What is wrong with the image? Even when I log off the forum it is still visible. Actually your tip on increasing the top layer thickness is correct but I already anticipated that by increasing it to 1.2mm. Should be enough I think. The fan on the printhead is working. I will try to print on again tonight it takes about 2.5 hours.. If I am on time I will increase the temperature when printing the top to 240 as a experiment. I already did 220 and 230. It almost looks like there is not enough material coming out of the nozzel. When I look at the filament entering the bodentube I see that it has little holes and no signs of skipping. The other forum post is very interesting but given those results my printing temperature is already at the high side. Where are the holes comming from....

I recently got my UM original running and I noticed that the top layer does not get filled in completely. I have been printing with layer hight 0.2 and PLA at 220 and at 230. But still there are small holes. It seems like the amount of plastic is not enough to fill everything. Print speed was at 50 and all the rest were default settings. I am using a heated platform at 60. But since the top layer is about 2 cm away from the platform I think it is irrelevant. Any idea which parameter I need to change to get it completely filled in. At places it does do it. Also you can see that there is some stringing on the photo some advice might be nice but the top layer has more is more noticable the strings I can cut away.

Nothing better then a third player in the game :-P

I just want to share what happened yesterday evening. During the day I was able to get my UM original assembled and working. So in the evening I decided it was time to get my own build heated bed operational. So I did all the necessary modifications to the electronics and had every thing running at the end of the evening. When I told the bed to go to 40 degrees it nicely did that. So I wanted to stop. Then all of a sudden I smelled this horrible burn smell. So I quickly turned off the UM and extra PSU. And started sniffing around. No nothing strange on the PSU, nothing strange on bottom of the UM but still that smell. Turned on the machine and it was operational. More sniffing no result. Then I decided to stop for the evening since I could find nothing wrong. While going down stairs the burn smell intensified. So I was thinking that is good and bad. Good it is not the printer.. At the door I met my wife and the answer became clear. She decided to make yugi thee. This needs to cook for about 15 min. Well she forgot about it and noticed the error when the whole house was stinking. Nice timing! Just got my new UM modified and working and she tricks me in believing something is terribly wrong.

I just received the replacement front panel. Thanks to the UM team for this quick response! Build can continue!