zoev89

My 5 cents.. Without these materials I can not say but you could try it out if nobody can help. If you have some PVA material around then you could print a small layer of PVA and then on-top print Extrudr GreenTEC and see how it behaves. If you don't have PVA around just buy some which would be a small investment compared to a UM3 for the sake of testing. And if successful then you already have PVA and if not then you saved a lot of money.

Sorry I just saw you have a ultimaker 2

Can you tell what printer you have? For a UMO I would just unscrew the ulticontroler and try from there.

I wrote a gcode for atomic pull on my ultimaker original. It heats to 190 degress then turns the fan on and cools to 90 degrees. When reaching 90 it will turn the fan of and wait until you press the button (once you have pulled the filament). Once the key is pressed it turns the heater off. It is a very simple gcode and instead of doing the setting in the menus again and again just start this print:P Here is the gcode save it to your sd card and enjoy it. When other temperatures are needed just modify the temperatures. You can create different files with different temperatures for different materials. (Don't know why it indents the G21 just remove the indent) G21 ;metric valuesG90 ;absolute positioningM109 S190 ; set extruder op 190 and waitM106 S255 ; set fan op maxM109 S90 ; set extruder op 90M106 S0 ; set fan uitM117 Even wachten en pullM0 ;PauseM104 S0 ; extuder op 0

Or change the machine startup code in Cura to use M104.

Did you measure the diameter of the filament? It could be it 3. something and then the chance is high it gets stuck in the hot-end. Ultimaker filament has 2.85mm diameter and some of the 3mm filament prints but if it goes beyond 3.1mm (I think don'y know the exact value by head) it will get stuck.

After some more prints I did have small parts having issues where a stronger bond is necessary. There I will stick to the wood glue trick. Having a method where the parts are easy removable has certainly a value. So it depends on your needs. If you have large parts the salt method has preference because removing will be easy. Printing small parts with little contact area I would stick to wood glue where part removal is typically not a problem.

I tried the salt method mentioned by Geert_2 and the first print came out perfect. I will see how the build plate holds. Typically I could only print 1 time at the same location so lets see what happens.

Hi JO3, That is for me difficult to say since I am using the E3D 24V printer heater and I modified my printer to run from my 24V power brick which is also running the heated build-plate. I think some of the members have done what you have done but you would have to dig through the forum. I don't know if you could measure with a oscilloscope on the heater output? You would see a relative high frequency block wave. While heating it should be almost DC on and at a stable temperature you would see the square wave. Now if you would heat further to 260 degrees and it is not reaching that and the output is DC then it is defiantly not the PID. Maybe a simple voltmeter could help but it would depend on how it reacts to the square wave. While heating it would read about 19V and while stable it is less.

Isn't the UMO heater not to large for the E3D heater block. I guess it would stick out quite a bit. I have a E3D but it is using the 24V heater from E3D and it easily reaches 260 degrees. So my guess is that the longer heater of the UMO can not convert all its heat into the heaterblock of the E3D. I don't think it is the always on fan the heat transfer from the block to cooling body is designed to keep it at minimum and the E3D heater can also cope with it.

I got my print with 0.4 mm details:

Well typically the zeners drop a little more when drawing current then exactly specified and the fans might not blow up directly when a little more then 12V is supplied. I would test it out and measure how much voltage is on the fan when the fan is directly connected to the 19V. If you want to add some margin just add an extra diode (if you have enough zeners you can use a extra one in the opposite direction) . For safety I would use 1 zener (or set) per fan and check how hot the zener gets.

Oh I hate this automatic logout feature on the forum.. I just typed a reply and then it logged me out so the message is lost:angry: For the always on fan your proposal is ok. For your cooling fan it will not work. The problem is you loose your speed control. You will find that it has difficulty with starting up and then will spin up to max rpm and that is not what you want. Fortunately there are simple solutions. For example you can use 11 diodes (1N4001) in series or use a 6.8V 1W zener diode. In both cases you loose a constant voltage whatever the current is. So at low rpm the motor will draw more current (it is using pulse width modulation) and with increased fan setting it will draw less current (higher rpm results in more voltage from the motor) Here is where your resistor has issues at a low setting the current is relatively high so it will drop quite a bit and then when the motor spins up it will draw less current so your resistor will drop less resulting in non starting motor at low setting to spin up to max rpm. Here the diodes or a zener works better since they always drop the same amount of voltage not mater the amount of current.

Results with the E3D using PLA is intermittent. Some people have issues I usually don't have issues with PLA. But I have to admit that before I change material I put a drop of sunflower oil on the filament before inserting it in the hotend and it is good to go for at least 12h printing. It might also depend on the kind of PLA I am using Colorfab which is quite tacky on the outside and it rubs on the side on the cooler. And switching back from ABS to PLA make sure to do a couple of hot pulls to get all the ABS out since the lower print temperature of PLA can give issues if the is some ABS residual (same is true for colorfab XT as well). I have printed quite a bit with V6 and PLA.

Having a enclose printer usually does not help with PLA. Some people have already tried but get failed prints due to the increased temperature. If the environment is warm PLA will get soft and you get extrusion problems. If you are printing ABS yes this is a good solution. So PLA hates heath and ABS loves heath So be carefull that the temperature in the box does not go up too much for PLA

I think I found a solution: Set the line width under Quality to 0.38 And change in the machine setting Preferences->Configure Cura The printers and hit the button Machine Settings and change the nozzle size to 0.38. Now Cura is slicing the object correctly.

It is the wall size I tried for 0.35. In the 1.5x version usually 0.38 was good enough to get the 0.4mm details in. Since the difference between 0.4 nozzle size and 0.38 wall size is relatively low there are no extrusion issues. But if on 2.3x this does not work at all I do have an issue here. The rule that you can't go below 2x nozzle size would be stupid since single wall objects are still quite usable.

I recently changed to Cura 2.3.1. I have a very simple H profile object And here is the bottom layer view The ribs are 0.4mm thick and it is 2mm square. With Cura 1.5.3 I usually set the wall thickness to 0.38mm and all would print well. In this case all the ribs are gone! Here is the openscad code: module HProfiel(d=2,l=20,profDikte=0.4) { cube([profDikte,l,d]); translate ([d-profDikte,0,0]) cube([profDikte,l,d]); translate([0,0,d/2-profDikte]) cube([d,l,2*profDikte]); } HProfile(); Save the stl and there is the exact object. I tried the wall setting but that does not help a bit. Actually in this case it looks like the ribs on the bottom are just gone while the 0.6mm of ribs to print. How can I export the settings. I have the normal profile (export button is gray) with just the 0.4 wall. I also tried 0.35 but that did not help at all. So what am I missing.

The USB connection might be reliable but the printer is running a real-time process expecting data arriving in time otherwise the head will not move to the next location in time. The printer firmware does not have a large buffer to store future commands they would have to come from the computer. Since the operating system on your computer does not know about the real-time requirements of your printer it might decide to do something else and come back later and in this case ruining your print. So if you can guaranty that the computer is streaming data all the time USB printing can work reliably. But most operating systems on every day computers do not give this guaranty. So that is why people claim that USB printing is unreliable since you never know when the operating system interrupts the communication for x amount of time. Dedicated boards with a local CPU could buffer this data and fulfill the real-time requirements the printer requires. I hope this gives some background info why people claim it is unreliable. And yes some people use USB printing but they have to be careful what the computer does on the background.

Did you add your user account to the dailout group as mentioned by bernjdm?

I just updated my design for the rain cover studs for my bike. Hope they will hold a little better then the previous ones and that they damage the cover less.

Hi Ian, Here is photo from a dust particle on the glass You don't see the holder at all the lens is very close to the objective. That is why I printed the holder to prevent damage to object or camera in case you bump into the microscope with the camera. Unfortunately the holder is specific for my Sony camera since there is no standard in the form factor of compact cameras. Focusing is very difficult I use the manual focus since the auto focus is not able to do something. Some camera's can (my previous one could but it took some fiddling around but that one did not survive a ground drop...) The image quality is a little less then can be seen by the eye but it gets quite useful. I tried to make images from the specific camera output of the microscope but I am lacking a lens that fits in there so the spot is so small that nothing can be made of it.

I put the extruder on a separate holder plate which I fixed with springs to the frame. This reduces the noise quite well. I actually installed that modification while printer was printing...

Nice that the light comes through. Did you print it with a shell thickness of 1?