zoev89
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Posts posted by zoev89
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Hi Sander,
I am not yet into printing locomotives and other 'rolling stock'. But you never know in the future, the details on those is quite a challenge. But bigger parts for my track work out quite well with the printer.
My station is an other good example on use of the printer.
I was quite glad that Cura was able to split the stl's in multiple parts it makes designing the parts easier since you can draw it as a whole and then make a very thin cut in the part and let Cura make the multiple printable parts. It would take a lot more work to draw the parts separate. For example the pit is basically a hollow cylinder but it is 310mm so you can't print it. Then you make a tiny intersection into the cylinder and let Cura split it and then you have 4 printable parts. Drawing 1 section and repeat it in into a circle is more work for drawing it.
Next step is making it operational in the layout.
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Here is a small video of the Turntable running:
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Hi All,
I was not on the forum for some time and this is the reason:
Its my 3D printed turntable for my H0 track. It took lots of hours to make and design but it is working quite well and that counts. With the printed gears and the steppen motor it is very accurate and stable.
I still need to do some track work but the turntable itself is finished. The design is uploaded on YouMagine.
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Hi Maarten,
I think that is no issue at all to make a separate control. The only difference would be that you would have to heat up the bed until it is stable yourself before starting the print. When the print is done you would have to turn it off.
But connecting it to the printer makes it a little easier since when the print starts it heats up the bed automatically and when done it turns it off. You could still use a separate power supply for the be bed if you like.
Knowing your electronics helps a bit when doing these kind of modifications.
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Here you can find the STL:
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I have a zebra plate and without heat my PLA does not stick. Also it is flexible that is nice for removing prints but bad for having a leveled bed. So for larger prints I don't use it because it is difficult to have it flat for the whole bed.
So actually I am not using it any more since it was not better then heathed bed + glas + glue. Specially if you swap the sides it does not stick at all. Getting it clean enough to get that side operational is quite some work.
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If you are sure that it is not a blocked nozzle or deformed PTFE coupler and extrusion by hand is smooth. Check you bowden tube it there is nothing inside, sometimes some strands of PLA get in there when you change material. You can also manually try to push some material through at the side of the extruder when it is not holding on to the material.
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Ik hoop ook niet teveel nieuws tijdens zijn bespreking te horen maar zijn Nederlands heeft wat aandacht nodig.
Mijn E3D nozzle van 0.4mm doet het nog steeds goed en die gebruik ik toch al meer dan 1 jaar. Ik had eigenlijk al verwacht dat die toch wel ongeveer vervangen zou moeten worden maar dat valt dus toch wel erg mee. Goed ik print niet zoveel als Kornel...
Geen glow in the dark filament gebruikt dat helpt wel.
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Deze keer zal ik niet kunnen komen, rapport besprekening van mijn zoon.
In ieder geval veel plezier.
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That should be ok since as far as I understand it it should support the ulticontroller.
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What kind of firmware do you have in the UMO? I have a marlin software and that I know for sure you need to have the ulticontroller in the build of the marlin.
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That is indeed a small stepper. How does it compare against the flex drive solution?
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If the heater is at its maximum temperature then you might be right going to a 40W heater. I have one too. You can see if you are the maximum if you would be able to visualize the electrical signal on the heater but you need a oscilloscope for that. Don't know if you have one.
Actually I don't know how much fluctuation I have. Have nothing to print at the moment too busy on other projects...
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To me it looks like under extrusion. I don't see a x-y shift. Maybe you have a partly clogged nozzle.
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I would give colorfab XT a try. It is a pet like material and has a FDA food compliance which might be important for your medical purpose.
Making water tight objects is very difficult since you don't have a guaranty that in between the layer is not a small hole. I paint my things that need to be water tight.
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Lets say something positive..
Slowly I begin to like the new forum. I like the use of the dashboard. It took me some getting used to.
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Hoi Arjan,
Did you tune the PID or not. SInce the mass of the warm part is much lower the PID needs some tuning. I don't know how I did it last time but I see there is a gcode command for it like M303 see
http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M303:_Run_PID_tuning
Run this from Pronterface and you get the values back in the terminal output.
My values are Kp=18.79 Ki=1.34 Kd=65.87 I build them into my marlin build.
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Here my first results for light fixtures for the garden:
I made them from transparent XT and I put a thin layer of Tamiya X22 transparent coating on the lamp to make sure that no water gets in. How good they will hold over time we will have to see but this is the best I could think of. Inside each lamp there is one Cree led which in this case it powered with a 300mA current source. I have a other design in the making where the same led will be powered at 1A. But before I go ahead on that I want to know how good the design is holding outside.
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I my theory is correct which only an assumption.
For the experiment I would put a fan blowing towards the feeder motor just to make sure it is not the temperature of the motor influencing you results since the first print is fine.
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In order to have a good first layer the layer needs to be pressed onto the platform. I guess you have leveled your bed to fulfill that requirement (which is good). It might be that due to printing the first object the feeder is now hot and possibly not able to build up the pressure needed to print the first layer. When you normally start the feeder is cold. Due to the direct drive of the UM2 feeder the warm motor can warmup the bold that drives the filament and giving the nature of PLA this might lead to the issues you have.
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Goed te horen dat het nu correct gaat. Jammer van je extruder. Ik hoop dat je nieuwe extruder goed werkt. De ultimaker 2 is nooit met 2 nozzles gekomen... Dus ik hoop dat die van jou wel goed werkt.
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Good that you found it. I have to it dig up (can't at the moment) some of my photos of my setup they were on the old forum and are lost now....
The circuits I used were mainly parts that I had laying around but it does give you some idea.
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This is what I was thinking about:
So on the connector there is a 19V terminal and the mosfet output that can pull the other terminal to ground. The 10K resistor now acts like a heated bed and by measuring parallel across the resistor with a volt meter you can see what is happening.
How are you planning connect you heated bed? I have a similar setup a heated bed with 24V power supply and an external mosfet. I used a optical isolator at the time which became redundant when I started powering the UM board from the 24V with a 24->19V stepdown converter.
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First:
How are you going to power your bed since the UMO standard power brick does not deliver enough power.
Now about measuring on the output of the UMO terminals. The UMO has a opencollector output for the heated bed. Without connection anything you will always measure 0V.
The best you can do is to connect a resistor (for example 10K) from the vcc terminal (19V) to the heatedbed terminal
19V -----------
--------| 10K |---- Heated bed connection on UMO board.
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And measure with a voltmeter over the 10K resistor. When the bed is on you should measure 19V and when it is off you should measure 0V.
Post your latest print!
in What have you made
Posted
Hi Skint,
Congratulations with the new addition. Yes it takes time but it is also very interesting to see the development.