zoev89

Goed te horen dat het nu correct gaat. Jammer van je extruder. Ik hoop dat je nieuwe extruder goed werkt. De ultimaker 2 is nooit met 2 nozzles gekomen... Dus ik hoop dat die van jou wel goed werkt.

Good that you found it. I have to it dig up (can't at the moment) some of my photos of my setup they were on the old forum and are lost now.... The circuits I used were mainly parts that I had laying around but it does give you some idea.

This is what I was thinking about: So on the connector there is a 19V terminal and the mosfet output that can pull the other terminal to ground. The 10K resistor now acts like a heated bed and by measuring parallel across the resistor with a volt meter you can see what is happening. How are you planning connect you heated bed? I have a similar setup a heated bed with 24V power supply and an external mosfet. I used a optical isolator at the time which became redundant when I started powering the UM board from the 24V with a 24->19V stepdown converter.

First: How are you going to power your bed since the UMO standard power brick does not deliver enough power. Now about measuring on the output of the UMO terminals. The UMO has a opencollector output for the heated bed. Without connection anything you will always measure 0V. The best you can do is to connect a resistor (for example 10K) from the vcc terminal (19V) to the heatedbed terminal 19V ----------- --------| 10K |---- Heated bed connection on UMO board. ----------- And measure with a voltmeter over the 10K resistor. When the bed is on you should measure 19V and when it is off you should measure 0V.

Printer settings can sometimes be strange. I have a small part printed in different orientation: The right part is printed with a little support for the curved part that is sticking out. And the left part is printed with in model support. Printspeed and temperature and cooling (on) were the same for both printes. Well the right print is a disaster and the left part is very usable. I have printed them 0.2mm layerhight at 250 degrees at 50mm/s. It is clear that orientation has a very large influence on this design. On an other print I was printing at 260 degrees and it was very weak in some areas. Then I printed at 250 and it was strong..

Look in the layer view my guess it also model related.

I have used the mooncatus blocks and I made them 1 mm smaller and I put the pullies the other way arround and I have 212x212 room. A little more then originally:) I use the same hotend mount you use.

Gebruik je een ulticontroller? Probeer dan daar is de prepare->auto home. Homed die dan correct. Als die dat goed doet dan zit het in je startup code, die kan je editen in Cura.

Well I have been printing XT with a little fan on. Giving the amount of problems you have it might help a little. I also print ABS with a little bit of fan. Don't overdo it with the fan otherwise you get layer bonding problems. If look at the photo drop the temperature a bit might also help fight the stringing (be aware that dropping the temperature might result again in bad layer bonding). And check your retraction distance. Well that is a lot to tune for. And conflicting actions it just looks like engineering.

Draaid de z motor soms de verkeerde kant op waardoor die beneden op de endswitch komt? Als dat het geval is dan zou je de motor draden in de connector moeten omdraaien (ergens heb ik daar nog een instructie voor maar weet even niet waar, ik zoek wel voor je als je dat nodig hebt). Je kan ook een custom marlin laten bouwen waarmee je de Z omdraaid. 2 mogelijkheden om hetzelfde te bereiken..

I don't have the numbers but I do think that there is still quite a bit of forum activity. If I look at the main page I see new posts all the time!

- De Z-axis die niet beweegt tijdens een print. (Bij de start van een print gaat deze wel omlaag indien deze nog niet beneden was) Hoezo omlaag het bed moet toch omhoog naar de nozzle toe om op laag 1 te komen? Voor je heated bed zou ik eens naar de power supply kijken. Note dat die PCB heaters behoorlijk veel meer stroom trekken dan aangegeven bij het opwarmen. Als ze dan op werk temperatuur zijn dat trekken ze minder stroom. Leuk voor het opwarmen maar slecht voor de voeding. DIt verschil kan denk wel eens tussen de 20 a 30% zijn. Dus als je voeding krap bemeten is dan trekt die het niet in de opwarm fase. De weerstand van PCB heaters loopt op bij oplopende temperatuur ...

The original filament of ultimaker is quite smooth on the sides but colorfab has this little texture so I think that is causing it. The coming weeks I will be running some XT filament and that does not have this textured surface. I don't know what Arjan used for his experiment but he had also issues with PLA and the E3D. He did not use any oil. People report clogs with the E3D but I have never clogged the hotend.

My 5 cents.. Do you have a UMO with 1 fan? To me it looks like a fan issue. One side the fan cools the material and the other side it does not. You might try to position the part differently so the fan hits both sides.

What is your first layer height (if it is by accident to height). Is the flow from the nozzle good? If you don;t have enough flow due to a half blocked nozzle you also get first layer issues.

In my case it is 2.85 bowden as you might know;)

Interesting nozzle design having the nozzle extend through the heater. I was thinking about the same idea some days ago..... Not that I was in the position to ever make something like that.

What is this...? Seriously? I have run lots of PLA prints with 6mm. @ 60mm/s retractions... Never had any PLA stick to anything... I also do not use sunflower oil... I agree with waiting untill the hotend is cold to turn off the printer.... Well it is not the retraction that is causing the issue it is the friction of the bent filament touching the long cooler. Since colorfabb PLA is a little rough on the outside I think that that is the cause in my case that I get under extrusion. This is where my sunflower oil comes in. I think that smooth PLA it might not be an issue but I can't say from my own experience. I print usually at about 50mm/s for 0.1 layer height.

I run quite a bit of PLA through my E3Dv6. I can say it only works well if I add 1 drop of sunflower oil to the filament (colorfab PLA) and after 12 hours of print it needs an other drop. No issue for me. Without the oil I get underextrusion there is simply too much friction in the hotend to get it through. Since I hardly print longer then 12 hours per print I don't have an issue but for long prints it might be. The benefit as I see it that the hotend can handle higher temperatures so for ABS and colorfab xt this is beneficial. I never had a clog but I only turn the machine off when the hotend is below 50 degrees (keeps the cooling fan of the hotend cooler running). Otherwise the heat can get into the hotend cooler and melt the PLA there which would result in a nice clog.

Here my project has been growing over the last 2 weeks. I first made sections with one glass and I coupled them And now it is the final size and very difficult to move:) And here it belongs as you see the station still needs a lot of work But it is getting somewhere. And difficult to put it on my camera it is getting to big...

@Arjan See you then..

For a UM2 no problem for a UMO its different....