zoev89

How is you bed leveling. If the bed is too close to the nozzle you can get similar output.

Hi Macua For hacking your firmware you have to install in custom Marlin software. Do you have a UMO or a UM2? For the UMO you can go to http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ specify what you need. There you can also specify the maximum temperature. For the oil what I found on the internet was usually people use salad oil, something natural. In my case with the sunflower oil it smells good if you use too much oil. I like the hotend as well. With the oil I never have issues and I don't have to worry about the teflon part when I print some ABS.

Yeah, sorry about that dependency. We found a critical bug in pyqt 5.2, so we could not use it. The guys of qt were fairly quick with fixing it, but it did result in the 5.4 dependency. Aha so I will wait until ubuntu update its packadge since you will not go back to 5.2 in your case due to the bug. Thank for letting me know.

Hi Macua I also use 1 drop of sunflower oil when I change filament or about 24h of printing. Since I do that I don't have any issues. I think due to the curve in the filament there is some buildup friction in the cooler of the hotend. After some time there is some thick residue of the oil left that I clean out every now and then.

There are plans to make it 14.04 compatible but there is no official word on when this great event will happen. Thanks at least there is some hope.

Well I failed installing the new Cura. I am running Ubuntu 14.04 LTS and there seems to be a packadge problem. The python3-qt5 version is incompatible. It requires 5.4.0 and I have 5.2.1. I don't have enough experience in updating to newer packadges then supported. Likely that is a hell which I don't want to get into. Installing new software is not my hobby. I guess I have to wait for 16.04 :(.

Ik gebruik gewoon Pritt zonder dat werkt mijn gekraste glasplaat echt niet. Werkt voor PLA en ABS en XT. Moet de laag wel vaak vervangen maar omdat het water oplosbaar is, is dat eenvoudig. Wat ik wel doe is na aanbrengen er met een natte kwast overstrijken zodat de lijm oplost (Pritt geeft van die klodders) en zich mooi verdeelt.

I find the new forum more difficult to use. The information is more mouse clicks away. It logs you out so I am hardly logged-in anymore. Half of the messages I created came from my phone, the new forum is unusable on my phone :( so I don't. So I lost quite a big amount of time on the forum which is sad. I guess more people are struggling. mmm just notice where are the smilies?

Leuk onderwerp als een soort post processing. Ben best benieuwd hoe de vorm van een object invloed heeft op de expantie. Helaas zal ik dit keer moeten overslaan.

That looks very slick. Not so crude as my panels. The magnets are a good idea. Do you envision a small handle to get grip on the panels for opening/removing?

Does the new Cura also get a minecraft import plugin like you have in the current Cura?

Oeps just reading UltiArjan post about forgetting the feedback form, same thing here. Just send the doc and I can fill it in.

Can somebody post the link to the download area to the new Cura. It was displayed but by the time I was able to record it the screensaver kicked in...

I will raise my priority on making these things for my printer as well. Last weekend I was printing and I heard some new sounds coming from the printer and I found out that one of the axis on one side was loose. The object was a little bit effected but while continuing printing I re positioned the Y axis and got the endcap on one side fixed again. The print was saved but I really need to implement this modification to get this solved.

What is the exact diameter of this filament? If you fill in the diameter of the filament correctly into Cura the flow rate could be 100%. Although I usually print with 104% just to make sure that top layers do not get any holes. But I do have a UMO but I would guess that the UM2 would not be different to this aspect.

Can you be more specific. What kind of HKB are you talking about (self build or the UMO heated bed kit from ultimaker?). Do you have a multimeter so you measure at the connection to see what is going on?

A nice idea. I don't think a little friction will be significant but my endcaps do have the tendency to get loose over time and that is not good. This modification would fix this I guess.

The easiest way would be to start using 24V is adding a 24V to 19V dc/dc converter. You still need to be careful then so that the 24V does not leak into the board when connecting thing to the board.

If that is true I think you are right that that can happen. I think that the estimation is that the likely hoot is small but from my own experience having a finger in the way on one of the fans can happen.

I would be careful putting 2 12V fans in series on a 24V source. If one fan is spinning up later the other gets the full 24V. Or for example a finger is in the way the other fan might dye and if your transistor on the board survives the event..... You will be running those fans also at low rpm where you can easily get into unbalances. You could add zeners in parallel on the fans but you don't have much headroom to play with. I would personally not do that get 24V fans or modify your design so they can run on 12V. Putting 12V fans in parallel on a 12V source is fine. If you can repair your ultimaker pcb easily then feel free to experiment but if not then don't take the risk. I didn't want to risk my ultimaker board so I added additional transistors to run all my fans at 12V on a 12V source. And I made a 12V out of my 24V power supply.

Thanks a lot ataraxis for compiling all the info together! You have me tempted to start implementing this upgrade although my 30mm hotend fan is by far the biggest noise contributor.

Ok I went into the code of Marlin and Daid was right, there is some weird behavior with the M0 and M1 commands. Actually they are not the cause but the commands that generate a wait for user message (actually the only ones if I am not mistaken). It is not in the M0,M1 commands but the handling of the M109 and M190 commands. Heated bed heating and extruder heating. I studied the main loop of the marlin code and during the M109,M190 calls the main tread is blocked by wait for the target temperature. This also means that the serial communication receive buffer is not emptied during that time. If there is a application requesting temperature status (M105 calls) these calls will not be executed untill heating is done. It means that the serial input buffer could overrun during that time causing miss interpretation of the received serial commands leading to strange behavior and in my case often M1 detection causing the user wait message. By studying the behavior of the Marlin (don't know if this is documented or where to look) I found that every serial command you give should be acknowledged with ok at which a new command can be transmitted. So the solution is that after heating you flush the receive serial buffer and then send the ok command. So this is my 1 line addition to the code of M109 (simular thing for M190): LCD_MESSAGEPGM(MSG_HEATING_COMPLETE); tarttime=millis(); previous_millis_cmd = millis(); MYSERIAL.flush(); // Eric remove received possible overflowing data In my case this resolves the problem quite well. I can now print from wifi (doodle3d) and SD card while the doodle3d is connected. So how do I proceed to propose this change in the Marlin software?

If environment temperature is not an issue (max 45-50 degrees c) I would start with PLA build up some experience and then look at Bronze fill etc. Note using special filled filament can have some negative effects on your nozzle (0.4mm might be to small for wood fill, or excessive wear)

On the UM2 board the transistor (BC817) on the fan output can maximally deliver 500mA. So if you draw more your transistor will dye and likely it might dye on you sooner since 500mA is the absolute maximum rating.

Why not swap the 12V heater with a 24V heater. E3D offers a 24V version. Operating a 12V heater on 24V to me looks like asking for trouble. The power drawn of this 40W 12 heater on 24V is 160W. If something goes wrong that heater might melt. Concerning the AD597A I only see that Marlin supports AD595. Look into the datasheet if they are exchangeable.