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zoev89

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Posts posted by zoev89

  1. I find the new forum more difficult to use. The information is more mouse clicks away. It logs you out so I am hardly logged-in anymore. Half of the messages I created came from my phone, the new forum is unusable on my phone :( so I don't. So I lost quite a big amount of time on the forum which is sad. I guess more people are struggling.

    mmm just notice where are the smilies?

  2. I will raise my priority on making these things for my printer as well. Last weekend I was printing and I heard some new sounds coming from the printer and I found out that one of the axis on one side was loose. The object was a little bit effected but while continuing printing I re positioned the Y axis and got the endcap on one side fixed again. The print was saved but I really need to implement this modification to get this solved.

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  3. What is the exact diameter of this filament? If you fill in the diameter of the filament correctly into Cura the flow rate could be 100%. Although I usually print with 104% just to make sure that top layers do not get any holes. But I do have a UMO but I would guess that the UM2 would not be different to this aspect.

  4. I would be careful putting 2 12V fans in series on a 24V source. If one fan is spinning up later the other gets the full 24V. Or for example a finger is in the way the other fan might dye and if your transistor on the board survives the event.....

    You will be running those fans also at low rpm where you can easily get into unbalances. You could add zeners in parallel on the fans but you don't have much headroom to play with.

    I would personally not do that get 24V fans or modify your design so they can run on 12V. Putting 12V fans in parallel on a 12V source is fine.

    If you can repair your ultimaker pcb easily then feel free to experiment but if not then don't take the risk. I didn't want to risk my ultimaker board so I added additional transistors to run all my fans at 12V on a 12V source. And I made a 12V out of my 24V power supply.

     

  5. Ok I went into the code of Marlin and Daid was right, there is some weird behavior with the M0 and M1 commands. Actually they are not the cause but the commands that generate a wait for user message (actually the only ones if I am not mistaken). It is not in the M0,M1 commands but the handling of the M109 and M190 commands. Heated bed heating and extruder heating. I studied the main loop of the marlin code and during the M109,M190 calls the main tread is blocked by wait for the target temperature. This also means that the serial communication receive buffer is not emptied during that time. If there is a application requesting temperature status (M105 calls) these calls will not be executed untill heating is done. It means that the serial input buffer could overrun during that time causing miss interpretation of the received serial commands leading to strange behavior and in my case often M1 detection causing the user wait message. By studying the behavior of the Marlin (don't know if this is documented or where to look) I found that every serial command you give should be acknowledged with ok at which a new command can be transmitted. So the solution is that after heating you flush the receive serial buffer and then send the ok command. So this is my 1 line addition to the code of M109 (simular thing for M190):

    LCD_MESSAGEPGM(MSG_HEATING_COMPLETE);

    tarttime=millis();

    previous_millis_cmd = millis();

    MYSERIAL.flush(); // Eric remove received possible overflowing data

    In my case this resolves the problem quite well. I can now print from wifi (doodle3d) and SD card while the doodle3d is connected. So how do I proceed to propose this change in the Marlin software?

     

  6. Why not swap the 12V heater with a 24V heater. E3D offers a 24V version. Operating a 12V heater on 24V to me looks like asking for trouble. The power drawn of this 40W 12 heater on 24V is 160W. If something goes wrong that heater might melt.

    Concerning the AD597A I only see that Marlin supports AD595. Look into the datasheet if they are exchangeable.

     

  7. I have exactly the same problem when printing from SD card when the doodle3d is connected. After heating the hotend it is always displaying "wait for user..." Seems the error is still there. The question is, is it the doodle3d or a bug in the marlin software that is triggered somehow. Given this post above it looks like it is a marlin issue when the temperature is monitored. Unfortunately I can't turn off the doodle temperature monitoring... (to my knowledge)

    See also my post

    http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/10278-doodle3d-and-starting-a-print/

     

  8. Actually your car relay option is easiest to debug without measuring equipment. Connect the relay as you had before and hear if it clicks or not. When the bed is off and you connect the relay it should not turn on.

    With your solidstate relay you can measure with a voltmeter on the input of the solid state relay if you measure something like 19V and the bed is off the output of the UMO mosfet is wrong. Now I don't know if the solid state relay input has a very high impedance you could add something like a 1K resistor parallel to the input pins to make sure that the relay goes off then the mosfet is off. You could measure on the pins of the mosfet what the status is of the gate pin when turning on/off the bed. Be carefull making a short can result in overall disaster.

    Drawing a circuit of your situation makes it easier to communicate if your connection is different from what I think it is I might give you the wrong answer.

     

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