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zoev89

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Everything posted by zoev89

  1. You might want to look into the E3D hotend. They claim it can go to 400 degrees with the proper thermocouple. If it would work....
  2. I have figured the startup for doodle3d over wifi out. It seems that you have to remove the comments after the M190 and M109 commands. The "wait for user .." when printing from sd card and a connected doodle3d is still there.
  3. I have exactly the same problem when printing from SD card when the doodle3d is connected. After heating the hotend it is always displaying "wait for user..." Seems the error is still there. The question is, is it the doodle3d or a bug in the marlin software that is triggered somehow. Given this post above it looks like it is a marlin issue when the temperature is monitored. Unfortunately I can't turn off the doodle temperature monitoring... (to my knowledge) See also my post http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/10278-doodle3d-and-starting-a-print/
  4. Are you in the position to measure the input voltage across the pins of the solid state relay? The voltage for bed on and bed off.
  5. Can you describe how you plugin works. I added it in the plugins section of cura and I saw the plugin, I selected it and generated and saved the gcode but I did not find any M117 commands in the gcode apart from my start and end.
  6. Maybe I am wrong but it looks like the plastic did not cool enough. Maybe at a little bit of fan. I usually add a bit of fan for ABS. Lets say 20% or something like that depends at what setting your fans start turning.
  7. Actually your car relay option is easiest to debug without measuring equipment. Connect the relay as you had before and hear if it clicks or not. When the bed is off and you connect the relay it should not turn on. With your solidstate relay you can measure with a voltmeter on the input of the solid state relay if you measure something like 19V and the bed is off the output of the UMO mosfet is wrong. Now I don't know if the solid state relay input has a very high impedance you could add something like a 1K resistor parallel to the input pins to make sure that the relay goes off then the mosf
  8. I have a strange problem. When I have the doodle3d connected to my UMO printer and I print via wifi the bed heating starts and after heating it asks for "wait for user". At that time the printer will sit idle with a headed bed on temperature but a cold hotend. When I press the button it starts printing. At that time the hotend is still cold so I abort the print. When I print again (now my heated bed is hot) it start heating the hotend and everything is ok. So my workarround is heat the bed to target temp and then start printing via wifi (cura). The strange thing is that when I print a file f
  9. Didn't fill it in but here my 5 cent. I own an enclosure. My opinion is that putting the printer with all the hardware inside an enclosure will cause overheating problems. The steppers will run hot and the electronics as well. I closed the printer area not the whole machine and placed the motors outside. Since electronics are at the bottom they still get fresh cool air. A enclosure only makes sense when printing abs. For pla it is not needed and it might get too hot. When printing abs (110 degrees build plate) the air in the enclosure gets to at least 45 degrees.
  10. After some hacking here my first result. I needed to make adapter since head design is different. After 2 tries this is my adapter and my result: The adapter is mounted on the 30mm fan of my hotend. The pen still has a little play. I also played with the ini file. I changed the minimum extraction before retract to 0. This to prevent travels without a head lift. Only the start and end travel still visible the rest is good. Getting a bitmap to print well is not so easy. The lines must be thick enough. Update :16/3 Added my files on youmagine https://www.youmagine.com/designs/pen-holder-for
  11. Cura detects the doodle3d. I don't know how but the doodle3d can be configured to connect to your local wifi network and then by going in the browser to http://connect.doodle3d.com you can see which doodle3d devices are detected. Likely there is a api description on how to access al this and then cura enables a wifi button on its screen. You can then directly print using that button. It transfers the gcode to the doodle3d while the printer is warming up. When all the gcode is transfered you can disconnect with the computer from the doodle3d it will continue sending the gcode to the printer
  12. I don't know the answer but this is what I googled: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G4:_Dwell Maybe adding that pauses your printer for a specified time. I guess you would like to write a pluging that generates the dwell time in the start code so it waits. Make sure that the hotend does not heatup during the dwell time, you don't want to have a warm hotend for a long time.
  13. With a 24V heater I think there would be possibilities but note you need to replace the 12V voltage regulator. Don't know about the other parts on the board and the steppers how they would hold out. I played save and added a 24V to 19V dc/dc converter. This is actually also what the upgrade kit for the heated bed holds. Capacitors usually are 16V or 25V rated so possibly 24V would fit but still it is quite a risk adding a small dc/dc converter is cheaper then buy a new board if it blows.
  14. Weet niet of dat op de um2, werkt maar een stukje draad van de juiste dikte werkt ook.
  15. Is de nozzle goed schoon? Als je een flow probleem hebt dan word de print grof. Dus ik denk aan gedeeltelijke verstopping. Check ook even of de temperatuur setting klopt, gezien het vast lopen.
  16. Kan je opmeten wat de maten zijn en wat het zou moeten zijn?
  17. Grappig idee, even kijken of ik een andere beugel kan verzinnen... Heb een andere print kop.
  18. Oef als je hotend blijft plakken dan is het wel heet. Je printe waarschijnlijk PLA in dat geval sluit ik mijn machine niet af maar in jouw geval doe je het vanwege de herrie en dat is anders. Bij abs prints sluit ik de machine wel af en kan het bij het hotend denk ik wel tussen de 40-50 graden worden bij abs is dat geen probleem. Tja daarom zie je ook wel eens e3d met water koeling.... Ik zou met ook zorgen maken om de electronica aan de onderkant want die word net zo heet als in de doos.
  19. I don't think the 67cm is very critical. My bowden is already shorter (2 to 3 cm) then that since one of the ends was damaged. I also printer with a significant longer bowden (80cm) this also worked.
  20. Don't know if it will work for you... You can try to pull it at a higher temperature to see if you can get something out. Sometimes I also need to pull at 100 or 110 degrees since at 90 it is stuck to hard. I also had 1 time that I pulled and it got itself completely stuck I needed to heat-up the cooler section of my hotend to get it out. If worst comes to worst you need to take the hotend out and burn the residue to get it out, but only do that once it is hopeless.
  21. In my enclosure I reach to 40 or 45 degrees measured at the top of the printer without an additional heater element. The heated platform of 240x240mm at 110 degrees warms it up to that level.
  22. Ik gebruik meestal een 0.3 eerste laag als er dan wat golf is is dat niet zo erg. Ik had een tijdje een krome as terwijl die draaide kon je het blok een beetje op en neer zien gaan. Je dat zelf ook controleren. Gewoon van af de controller move x or y en kijk of het blok waar de as door draaid op en neer gaat. Weet je zeker dat je glas plaat recht is die wil ook wel eens vervormt zijn. Goede rechte lineaal op leggen en tegen het licht houden.
  23. I need to try this SwapAtZ plugin an see how it works. Since I did it with an editor I can see in the gcode if it does the right thing. Using this 2 steps I have been able to get a successful result.
  24. I guess I have found an intermediate answer. I created a stl with only the outer shell and print that with spiralize. And I have a stl of the complete object which I print with the normal settings to obtain the top part. Then I merge the 2 gcode files at a specific height reset the extruder (first try was without the reset to new lenght it printed a large blob and had some grinding). I just found out that there is a plugin merge at z that possibly does what I did by hand.
  25. Bumped into the zillions retractions as well due to the combing being translated to Off.... :oops:
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