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  1. An update at the last day of 2017 (in the Netherlands is no snow). I removed the connector and pulled the 3 wires apart from eachother. They didn't break. I replaced the connector and started the print again. It printed well for hours. I think it was a loosen contact. Thanks all and I wish you a wonderfull 2018! ??✨
  2. Thans again for your tips. I have attaché again 2 pictures, this time of the print head. The first shows the circuit board. I tightened the 2 little screws in the green part with the red and yellow wire. These had loosen a bit, so I hoped this was it. But unfortunately this was not solving the problem. I got the error again. About the suggestion of the connector, I don't understand which part has tot be replaced. Is it the outer shell at the end, which holdes the colored wires ? Isn't that only a tape to protect? Or do I have tot cut the whole wire and connect with new one? Then I ne
  3. Sorry, but I'm still very uncertain about what to do. I see only one screw holding the steel wire, the temp wire has no screw? Do I understand it right that I have to screw that one screw tight? I also must say I was printing PETG at 245 degrees. I made 2 pictures. You see I almost burned the fan wire a year ago, but that was going ok. You can also see that the spare wire of the fan or extra extruder has different colors and has 3 instead of 1 wire. I wonder if just plugging in the black and red plug in the other one is ok. Sorry, I'm not very technical. Hope you still want to h
  4. Hi, I have the same problem. First I got the max temp error during the print, then it started already before starting the print and the temp on the controller gave 378C. I have had this before. Then I checked and unplugged and re-plugged the temp wire under the printer and that fixed the problem. But it came back and now I couldn't solve it with that. So I looked at the steel wire next to the temp wire at the hot end. I reordered some loosen wires that touched the block and I increased the distance between the temp and steel wires a little. The print started hopeful, but
  5. Indeed stretching the panel helped, and I changed the directory in the preferences, thanks. About the sd card, in the UM the control panel used to show the last added file first, now I have to find it somewhere down, but not the last. Anyone knows how to change this? Thanks,
  6. Haha, I like the heated chamber :cool: I'll try that. I live in the Netherlands and it is very cold here (5-7 degrees), but nevertheless I printed with window open as ABS is not a very healthy air. So it was freezing in the chamber, this might be the solution, thanks a lot. If not I'll try the isopropyl alcohol, although this isn't available in the Netherlands, unfortunately, but I'll buy it by the internet. As you did advise me that before and I didn't do it... The raft I tried but the tape comes off anyway. Wider tape will probably not prevent that, as it really comes high up (about 4 mm)
  7. After selecting plugin, this plugin can not be removed at Cura 15.01 Only a reset worked. Save as toolpath is not directly sd card,but last opened folder Both quite irritating issues. For me it would be nice if I could export the gcode to stl from cura. Then I can change the support in sketchup f.e. and then reload it.
  8. Hi all, I tried to print a push button in ABS in very many ways. I tried a bigger plane, skirt, brim, mouse ears, raft, even pritt-stick on the bed etc. But nothing helps from warping, curling and coming off the bed. I know that it will probably go better with a heated bed, but I don't have it (yet), so that doesn't help me. I made some pictures, you can see in the attached album. My settings are at the last picture of the model and settings in cura: layer height 0.25 shell 0.8 top/bottom 0.6 fill 10% speed 80 temp 230 rotate 30 degree (then no overlap, but it falls down with no supp
  9. Hi, Has anyone printed a new UM with his own UM? I have an original since march this year and saw some partlists spread on the internet. When I do this, I want to be sure that I print the right parts, that belong to eachother (and not of some different releases f.e.). And what if the pla shrinks... Settings would also be nice to know. I just want to experiment with the new one, and don't know yet if I want to print a UM2 (if possible) or original. Probably the original is a better idea, as I "know" how to assemble that one and I am not very technical (allthough I dared to dismantle the nozz
  10. Thanks a lot! Can a mold of PLA safely be used for chocolate?
  11. Thanks, I saw that item, but you haven't printed it yet. Maybe there is someone whow's been at Protospace and has done it. Or UM? Molds for chocolate, good idea, thanks!
  12. Thanks, I saw that item, but you haven't printed it yet. Maybe there is someone whow's been at Protospace and has done it. Or UM?
  13. I would like to print chocolate and unfortunately missed the UM meeting at Protospace. Is there a step by step video or something like that for the UM original? Thanks in advance, Carina
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