carinac

An update at the last day of 2017 (in the Netherlands is no snow). I removed the connector and pulled the 3 wires apart from eachother. They didn't break. I replaced the connector and started the print again. It printed well for hours. I think it was a loosen contact. Thanks all and I wish you a wonderfull 2018! ??✨

Thans again for your tips. I have attaché again 2 pictures, this time of the print head. The first shows the circuit board. I tightened the 2 little screws in the green part with the red and yellow wire. These had loosen a bit, so I hoped this was it. But unfortunately this was not solving the problem. I got the error again. About the suggestion of the connector, I don't understand which part has tot be replaced. Is it the outer shell at the end, which holdes the colored wires ? Isn't that only a tape to protect? Or do I have tot cut the whole wire and connect with new one? Then I need to know what kind of wire... I don't know if I am able to do that.

Sorry, but I'm still very uncertain about what to do. I see only one screw holding the steel wire, the temp wire has no screw? Do I understand it right that I have to screw that one screw tight? I also must say I was printing PETG at 245 degrees. I made 2 pictures. You see I almost burned the fan wire a year ago, but that was going ok. You can also see that the spare wire of the fan or extra extruder has different colors and has 3 instead of 1 wire. I wonder if just plugging in the black and red plug in the other one is ok. Sorry, I'm not very technical. Hope you still want to help me.

Thanks! I'm going to try and keep you updated later.

Hi, I have the same problem. First I got the max temp error during the print, then it started already before starting the print and the temp on the controller gave 378C. I have had this before. Then I checked and unplugged and re-plugged the temp wire under the printer and that fixed the problem. But it came back and now I couldn't solve it with that. So I looked at the steel wire next to the temp wire at the hot end. I reordered some loosen wires that touched the block and I increased the distance between the temp and steel wires a little. The print started hopeful, but again I got the max temp error. @gr5 how can I change to the other wire? I'm afraid I see the other wire, which is meant for another extruder I thought, has 3 wires with different colors as the red and black of the fan. Would be great if you can explain this a little more easy for me...

Did you find out what it was?

Indeed stretching the panel helped, and I changed the directory in the preferences, thanks. About the sd card, in the UM the control panel used to show the last added file first, now I have to find it somewhere down, but not the last. Anyone knows how to change this? Thanks,

Haha, I like the heated chamber :cool: I'll try that. I live in the Netherlands and it is very cold here (5-7 degrees), but nevertheless I printed with window open as ABS is not a very healthy air. So it was freezing in the chamber, this might be the solution, thanks a lot. If not I'll try the isopropyl alcohol, although this isn't available in the Netherlands, unfortunately, but I'll buy it by the internet. As you did advise me that before and I didn't do it... The raft I tried but the tape comes off anyway. Wider tape will probably not prevent that, as it really comes high up (about 4 mm), very clear visible. Thanks!

After selecting plugin, this plugin can not be removed at Cura 15.01 Only a reset worked. Save as toolpath is not directly sd card,but last opened folder Both quite irritating issues. For me it would be nice if I could export the gcode to stl from cura. Then I can change the support in sketchup f.e. and then reload it.

Hi all, I tried to print a push button in ABS in very many ways. I tried a bigger plane, skirt, brim, mouse ears, raft, even pritt-stick on the bed etc. But nothing helps from warping, curling and coming off the bed. I know that it will probably go better with a heated bed, but I don't have it (yet), so that doesn't help me. I made some pictures, you can see in the attached album. My settings are at the last picture of the model and settings in cura: layer height 0.25 shell 0.8 top/bottom 0.6 fill 10% speed 80 temp 230 rotate 30 degree (then no overlap, but it falls down with no support) support touching buildplate expert fix type A is allways on Can anyone advise me how to print this on a UM Original? Thanks a lot in advance!

Hi, Has anyone printed a new UM with his own UM? I have an original since march this year and saw some partlists spread on the internet. When I do this, I want to be sure that I print the right parts, that belong to eachother (and not of some different releases f.e.). And what if the pla shrinks... Settings would also be nice to know. I just want to experiment with the new one, and don't know yet if I want to print a UM2 (if possible) or original. Probably the original is a better idea, as I "know" how to assemble that one and I am not very technical (allthough I dared to dismantle the nozzle as smoke and black pla came out and the UM completely stuck after printing woodfill... if anyone wants the settings for woodfill I used recently, when it got well ;-), let me know). I assume the lasercutter parts, horse shoe and maybe the fan (or a better fan!) can be printed? "Only" the nozzle, peek, hot end tube, hot end holder, heater cartridge, thermotransmitter, switches, controller, extruder, aluminium block, axes, power adapter, belts, hot end coupler, thermocoupler sensor, stepper driver, pulleys, bowden tube, build platform and some screws must be bought? Beside the screws I came with this list on about 600 euro's at UM shop. Unfortunately UM doesn't sell a package DIY kit for this use, only the whole package for 995. If anyone has done it, please can you tell how many hours your machine was running, to make a sensible decision? Thanks all in advance!

Thanks a lot! Can a mold of PLA safely be used for chocolate?

Thanks, I saw that item, but you haven't printed it yet. Maybe there is someone whow's been at Protospace and has done it. Or UM? Molds for chocolate, good idea, thanks!

Thanks, I saw that item, but you haven't printed it yet. Maybe there is someone whow's been at Protospace and has done it. Or UM?

I would like to print chocolate and unfortunately missed the UM meeting at Protospace. Is there a step by step video or something like that for the UM original? Thanks in advance, Carina

Hi Sander, thanks, I have removed the filament at the feeder. It was broken right after the feeder, but was too short to reach it by hand. It has been broken before at the same place. I wonder maybe the horizontal screw there is too tight or loose? Anyway, after putting in new filament, nothing came out. So I'm afraid I have to disassemble the nozzle, as probably a peace stuck in the nozzle. I'm at Protospace Tuesday, I'm going to try it there.

Hi, My filament has broken, just at the end. The end is too short to get it and pull it out. When I lossen the back and put new filament strongly there's no filament coming out. When I raise the temp to 250 there is a very little bit coming out, but for a very short time. It doesn't help when I push the new filament. I tried to print something after closing the back, but there was nothing coming out. I tried a diffrent slizing program (slice3r) and maybe the settings were not right, which could have caused my problem. The filament broke short after the start of this print and I heard the clicking again. Something is wrong with the feeder, I think. Anyone has tips? I hope other tips then unscrewing the extrusion head, because I started that once and stopped, as that is a big risk for people like me :???: Is it possible to losen the bowden tube at the back?

Unfortunately, after 6,5 hours of printing the result was a bowl with holes in the middle... :???: :mad: Anyone tips?

Unfortunately the fan was not the cause of the tick. And the PLA broke. I have the feeling it has someting to do with the feeding. I changed the PLA into another colour and gave a lot of attention of how to hangup the PLA role. It started wiwth the tick, but suddenly it disappeared and now it is printing very smooth, tick has gone! Any idea why it suddenly starts printing in the air? I had it once before, disappeared with next print. But I would like to know if that can be prevented.

Thanks! You are right about the fan (I don't like this part since building...). I'll try layer 0.2, shell 1.2, top/bottom 1.2, infill 20%, no support. And I'll buy an epoxy...

Who can help me with the settings for just a simple dog bowl. I tried this: wall thickness 3mm, layer height 0.2, retraction, shell and top/bottom 0.4, fill 20%, printspeed 75, support type everywhere. PLA broke, so it went on printing in the air. After reparation (first started unscrewing extrusion, but stopped and printed something putting the new PLA after it) I hear a strange tick. First I thought it came from the fill, but I think it comes from right axes. Anyway, I tried to change the settings into 0.1 layer, no retraction Shell to 1.4 and 1.0, botoom/top to 0, fill to 0. It is hopless and gives a bad result, in the first place because the first layer doesn't want to stick. But also it prints holes instead of filled. The designer (said he had to use a epoxy to make it waterproof...) advised no support, layer 0.25, top/bottom 0.75, speed 60. This started fine (I changed the PLA into one I bought from UM, to make sure it was no PLA quality issue and changed wall thickness and size into original settings), but at about 30% it started to print in the air (no broken PLA). Here is the code from thingiverse, openscad, so I could change the name, how I printed it as on the video (In the design I changed the size of bottom/top diameter into 150/125, later I changed wall thickness and size into original). http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:247231 use <Write.scad> wig = 0.01/1; // Number to ensure overlaps. //Number of facets in a circle. More = smoother. $fn=60; // [15,20,30,45,60,100] //Diameter of the bottom of the bowl. cone_bot = 150; //Diameter of the top of the bowl. cone_top = 125; //Height of the bowl. cone_h = 50; //Interior diameter of the bowl. bowl_d = 127; //Wall thickness of the cone portion of the bowl. wall_t = 3; //Words on the bowl. words = "DUMMIE & FONS"; delta = (cone_bot-cone_top)/2; avg_r = (cone_top+cone_bot)/4; angle = atan(delta/cone_h); module bowl(TEXT) { difference() { union() { cylinder(r1=cone_bot/2,r2=cone_top/2,h=cone_h,center=false); intersection() { writecylinder(text=TEXT,where=[0,0,0],radius=avg_r,height=cone_h,h=0.4*cone_h,t=delta); cylinder(r1=cone_bot/2+wall_t,r2=cone_top/2+wall_t,h=cone_h,center=false); } } difference() { translate([0,0,-wall_t/sin(angle)]) cylinder(r1=cone_bot/2, r2=cone_top/2, h=cone_h,center=false); translate([0,0,cone_h-wall_t/sin(angle)]) scale([1,1,2*(cone_h-wall_t)/bowl_d]) sphere(bowl_d/2); } translate([0,0,cone_h]) scale([1,1,2*(cone_h-wall_t)/bowl_d]) sphere(bowl_d/2); } } bowl(words);

YES! If you were here, I would kiss you :-P Thanks a lot! I have a few questions though. In what cases do I have to use this fix horrible type B? The help function was not very clear. And I don't understand a clue how it can be so good with fill density 0.0! Why not top/bottom? I did printspeed 100 by the way (let the UM work a bit harder :-)).

As I can't upload a scad file (...) here is the code //inner radius of the bracelet in mm inner_radius = 28; //[15:150] //outer radius of the bracelet in mm outer_radius = 33; //[15:150] //length of the bracelet in mm length = 15; // [5:60] //diameter of your 3d printer nozzle in mm nozzle = 0.5; //number of sections on bracelets sections = 17; //[15:60] //text to put on bracelet text = "MAMA LOVES FAY"; //view text as holes? holes = "no"; // [yes, no] //text thickness as amount of nozzle text_thickness = 5; //[2:6] use <MCAD/fonts.scad> module test(){ echo("test"); } baseheight = 0.8; r1 = inner_radius; r1a = r1*1.01; //I added this r2 = outer_radius; r2a = r2*0.99; //I added this n = sections; gapin = 3*nozzle; //I changed this gapout = 5*nozzle; //I changed this alpha = 2*PI/sections; alpha_1 = alpha - gapin/r1a; //I changed this beta = 2*PI/sections; beta_1 = alpha - gapout/r2a; //I changed this alpha_2 = gapin/r1a; //I changed this beta_2 = gapout/r2a; //I changed this alpha_3 = nozzle/r1a; //I changed this beta_3 = nozzle/r2a; //I changed this fudge = 0.01; //process the text, we have beta_1 for the symbol, use beta_2 for border! thisFont=8bit_polyfont(); x_shift=thisFont[0][0]; y_shift=thisFont[0][1]; theseIndicies=search(text,thisFont[2],1,1); wordlength = (len(theseIndicies)); factorygap = 1; scale_x = (beta_1-beta_2) * r2 / x_shift; scale_y = (length - factorygap*gapout) / y_shift; thicknessword = text_thickness * nozzle; // Create the Text module alltext() { for( j=[0:(len(theseIndicies)-1)] ) rotate([0, 0, (3/2*beta_2 + (beta_1-beta_2)/2 + j* beta)*180/PI]) translate([r2 -1.5* nozzle, -(beta_1-beta_2) * r2 /2 , factorygap/2*gapout]) rotate([90,0,90]) { scale([scale_x,scale_y,1]){ linear_extrude(height=thicknessword) polygon(points=thisFont[2][theseIndicies[j]][6][0],paths=thisFont[2][theseIndicies[j]][6][1]); } } } module innerholes() { union() { for (i = [0:n-1]){ rotate([0,0,(-alpha_1/2 + i* alpha)*180/PI]) translate([r1,0,0]) cube(size=[3*nozzle,gapin, 3*length], center=true); } } } module spikes() { linear_extrude(height=length) { union(){ for (i = [0:n-1]){ polygon(points = [ [r1a*cos((-alpha_1/2 + i* alpha-alpha_2/2)*180/PI), r1a*sin((-alpha_1/2 + i* alpha-alpha_2/2)*180/PI)], [r2a*cos((2*beta_2/2 + (i-1)* beta)*180/PI), r2a*sin((2*beta_2/2 + (i-1)* beta)*180/PI)], [r2a*cos((2*beta_2/2 + (i-1)* beta-beta_3)*180/PI), r2a*sin((2*beta_2/2 + (i-1)* beta-beta_3)*180/PI)], [r1a*cos((-alpha_1/2 + i* alpha-alpha_2/2-alpha_3)*180/PI), r1a*sin((-alpha_1/2 + i* alpha-alpha_2/2-alpha_3)*180/PI)] ], paths = [ [0,1,2,3]]); } }} linear_extrude(height=length) { union(){ for (i = [0:n-1]){ polygon(points = [ [r1a*cos((-alpha_1/2 + i* alpha+alpha_2/2+alpha_3)*180/PI), r1a*sin((-alpha_1/2 + i* alpha+alpha_2/2+alpha_3)*180/PI)], [r2a*cos(((i)* beta+beta_3)*180/PI), r2a*sin(( (i)* beta+beta_3)*180/PI)], [r2a*cos(( (i)* beta)*180/PI), r2a*sin(( (i)* beta)*180/PI)], [r1a*cos((-alpha_1/2 + i* alpha+alpha_2/2)*180/PI), r1a*sin((-alpha_1/2 + i* alpha+alpha_2/2)*180/PI)] ], paths = [ [0,1,2,3]]); } }} } module outerholes() { union() { for (i = [0:n-1]){ rotate([0,0,(beta_2/2 + i* beta)*180/PI]) translate([r2-nozzle,0,0]) cube(size=[3*nozzle, gapout, 3*length], center=true); } } } module outercirc(){ difference(){ cylinder(h=length, r=r2, $fn=100); translate([0,0,-fudge]) cylinder(h=length+2*fudge, r=r2-nozzle, $fn=100); outerholes(); } } module innercirc(){ difference(){ cylinder(h=length, r=r1+nozzle, $fn=100); translate([0,0,-fudge]) cylinder(h=length+2*fudge, r=r1, $fn=100); innerholes(); } } module baseform(){ union(){ outercirc(); innercirc(); spikes(); } } rotate([0,0,-90]) if (holes == "yes") { difference(){ baseform(); alltext(); } } else { union(){ baseform(); alltext(); } }

Hi, I found it (could easier!!). See

Hi, Thanks a lot for the quick respond. I have done some actions, like first run wizard and bed leveling and replaced the tape. After that it didn't print in the air anymore. But for some reason I cannot level the right front bolt, it is higher then the bed and the bed doesn't want to lift. I want to upload a picture, but ... don't see any attachment possibility. I also made a video, same problem. My media is empty, but how can I fill it? Thanks in advance, Carina