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deepshots

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Everything posted by deepshots

  1. I've cleaned and cleaned my printhead. Hairy prints still persists. I've ordered a new nozzle now to see if that makes any difference.
  2. Also the bridging capabilities of UM2 (and FDM generally) is tad over optimistic with this model...
  3. I've now started to get very hairy prints also... all with ColourFabbs materials..... My print-head is bit dirty. So basically I gather from this thread that the best way to get rid of the fur is to get a new print-head. Should I get the Hot end Bundle or just the Nozzle/Block?
  4. I've had an UM2 for half a year now and generally everything has gone smooth. Lately, however, I've been getting very hairy prints... yes... hairy... All my printed parts are full of little hairs and fluff. Not just the normal spikes you get every now and then where the head is lifting. But tiny tiny hairy fluff in the colour of the filament. Most of the hairs are attached to the prints but lots of it also ends up falling on the build plate. After printing I need to have extensive hair removal sessions... cutting.. rubbing... washing... and it is getting worse. I've tried with different filaments... different colours... materials.. PLA..XT... Always the same Any ideas?
  5. Rhino! Student edition.. only £200. Worth every penny. Quite easy to learn also.... Well I've learned it from having no previous cad knowledge
  6. I was impressed about the Colourfabb XT polyester stuff... Got some samples with me. According the guys on the stand it is as tough as ABS but without any shrinkage and on top of all that it does not smell and is food safe. Nice! I will try my sample filaments asap.
  7. Also.. these Mancunians said they are Ultimaker UK. Is this right? Why the he** is Ultimaker UK in Manchester? It really should be in London... so that normal people would understand what these guys are trying to grunt
  8. Good show all in all. I was bit unimpressed about the mancunians on the UM stand. They didn't really seem to know what they were talking about... And nobody with any knowledge were present. Do yourself a favor Ultimaker and make sure next time you hire people who know something about the field they are supposedly there to represent and not just any "northern" gobshite. On a positive note... So many UM2s on the other non related stands also. Makerbots not that visible generally :-)
  9. So as I would have to make the printing slower the overall time would not be that much faster... I guess
  10. I'm just wondering how thick layers you could print with UM2? Especially when working some bigger objects I would like to make quick and rough prints at first to see how they works etc... Can I print thicker layers than 0.2? And if yes how much thicker? Has anyone tried?
  11. ok... this is getting bit old but I just did something very similar myself and realised how to do this mega easy. This was done in Rhino (you can get a trial version of it which allows 20 saves) From the mesh menu select offset mesh and select add caps.. wham! you have a nice solid with walls of whatever thickness you want.
  12. Instead of doing the fan control from the printer's own menu can I gradually bring in the fans via the expert menu? I've seen the fan settings there but It wasn't clear if I could increase like +10% each layer or so until 100%
  13. Tube would be the cheapest... Change at Green Park...but it also takes forever. Heathrow Connect is quite good. It comes reasonably quickly from Heathrow to Paddington. From there you'd had to continue with tube again.
  14. The Billingsgate area is completely zombie-apocalypse-deserted during the weekend and boring. Most of the Pubs serve the city crowd and are closed Saturday. They are rammed weekdays from about 4-8 and empty after that once the suits have gone. To find anything I'd recommend a hop over the river to the Borough Market area. Lots of cool pubs here, my favourite being the The Market Porter
  15. Pretty much since I have had my UM2 I've suffered from slight under-extrusion in the layers just after the bottom layer. This is usually worst in the 3rd layer when the fans fully kick in. I print PLA with 0.1mm layer with slightly slower speeds. 210C for nozzle and 60C for bed. Otherwise standard settings. My parts are usually mechanical with tight restrictions on the outer diameter so I don't level the bed super close to avoid the first layer gain/squeeze. I still get nice solid and flat first layer though. I have 0.6mm bottom/top and 0.3mm initial layer so my printer does 4 layers before starting infill. The layers 2-3 are usually the worst... the fill ends up being bit like webbing and you can see that the two ply walls are not perfect either. By the 4th and 5th layer everything is proper solid already. Looking at the final piece from side you can see this also as a little indent before the things clear up. Generally I'm happy with the overall results. I would not be too fuzzed but the first couple layers are actually the most crucial for my designs as that's where my gear teething are supposed to mesh. I've read the Visual Ultimaker Troubleshooting Guide by 3DVerkstan Any ideas how could I further improve my second and third layers? Regards
  16. Are you going to be manning the UM stand Sander?
  17. Most CAD packages will have commands like this... search something like "project to surface" or "flow along the curve/plane/surface...." For planar surfaces it is easy as you can just use boolean union or difference to stamp the decorations on.
  18. @JonnyBischof... Oh shit! :shock: Why haven't I seen this article before? Should be mandatory reading for all Ultimakers. Pure Gold! Cheers
  19. Yes... that is why I'm only talking about brims and skirts.. not actual support material for overhangs. That's a completely different story of course. Especially when I print something tall and kinda thin I usually include nice wide base to the export as I have had cases where the printer head has knocked over the prints... typically in the later layers.
  20. I actually do my brims/skirts straight in CAD before exporting. That way I can get exactly the type I want.
  21. Well maybe I'm being to pessimistic here. With a closer look it is under-extrusion.. agreed. I was speaking more generally about small unevenness that today's printers all do.
  22. I think you might just be expecting little bit too much... Especially the second picture looks fine to me. I don't think you'll ever be able to make perfectly even prints with current home 3D printing technology. I've learned to be realistic and live with the uneven surfaces. My customers haven't so far complained.... PS.. the shiny black always looks the worse... this is why I print in bright colours where the little faults are not showing
  23. I'd imagine if it is just a bunch of surfaces it would be impossible to print. You would need at least a closed polysurface of some sort to print it (and no naked edges) I've never tried meshmixer... maybe you could extrude the polygons somehow there... but in a CAD package generally the mesh is just an end result of the actual model... sort of like extracted from the working model for STL export reasons. Solidworks is bloody expensive so I don't think you'd have that laying about. Take measurements carefully and redraw in Sketchup... That's what I would do if you don't want to pay through your nose. Many 3D printing companies can also assist with dodgy files...
  24. Just bought tickets to London's 3D Printshow in September! Who else is going?? I was there last year and found it very interesting... and set my mind towards UM2 http://3dprintshow.com/london2014/
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