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thomas-roager

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Posts posted by thomas-roager

    How to improve this print..

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hello Ian

    my speed is 50mm/s and 220 degrees hotend and 55 degrees heatedbed + fan always on.

    i got belt tensioner on both axis. i have been looking for some good machine oil but that made it alittle worse (harder to move the print head).

    and also the layer height is 0.12mm.

    Im glad you can see im getting something out of my printer because im getting frustrated :b

    And thanks :D

     

    How to improve this print..

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hello Folks

    i have finally gotten my printer alive with some decent prints.

    Can you guys help me to figure out what i could adjust to get some smoother prints?

    My printer is an ultimaker 1 with some modifications, and im printing PLA.

    Here's a link where ill upload my pictures from my phone:

    https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B44jifdi0ZbBcC1lbnJkdk50b3M&usp=sharing

    The problems can be from the printers mechanical side, and if it is then it would be great to know what to change to make it even better :)

    Both my profile from cura is in the folder and the gcode for the file.

    i really hope some of you can help me out.

    - T Roager

     

    Layers not bonding

    in Coffee corner

    Posted

    the pressure fit bearings. i replaced it and now it doesn't have a clicking noise.

    i have changed my bearings for the x&y axis (11x8x30) to some peak material and it runs a lot smoother. now i can move it with 1 finger from all sides.

    but I'm still left out with the problem, the layers are cracking even at 265 degrees. and also my prints got some kind of ringing or maybe the infill is creating the ringing of my parts I'm not sure.

    and i found out i was under extruding. i changed that. but that still doesn't solve my problem :( I'm afraid i have to change back to PLA even though I'm not a fan of PLA.

     

    Layers not bonding

    in Coffee corner

    Posted

    Your Y axis friction looks fine.

    Your X axis has issus - that ticking is the belt riding up on the pulley I think.

    You need to check your alignment - the X belts should be directly below the X rods. Directly. As you slide the X to the left then you can check the left end of both X rods and see if the belts are lined up perfectly. At least one of them isn't I think. Loosen that pulley and slide it along the shaft until it's perfectly under the rod then retighten. And tighten the pulley set screw a lot! The hex tool should twist some.

    If you make another video, pluck the belts with the head in a corner. All 8 top/bottom halves of the 4 long belts and also the 2 short belts (either side).

    I'm not 100% certain you have backlash. It sure looked like it but maybe it's fine other than the clicking (minor issue).

    You said you checked the endcaps right? And if you loosen them then the head doesn't move any easier?

    You can also put a few drops of light oil on all 6 rods (4 thick rods, 2 thin rods) although they shouldn't need it. Any light oil is fine but better to use oil with as few additives as possible (WD40 has additives that you are better off without). But any light oil should be fine.

     

    i think its my bearing for the x axis thats bad ..

    yes it was a really bad bearing. can make a rattle sound when i shake it :O damn some work to find that error !!

     

    Layers not bonding

    in Coffee corner

    Posted

    I have tried to put some silicone gel on the rods, but that didnt help! :(

    Can the noise come from the short belts? And Can the short belt pulleys touch the inner caps?

    I Think im gonna take it apart again to do it all over :)

    Layers not bonding

    in Coffee corner

    Posted

    You should be able to move the head with one finger on each block on the sides. Easily. So that is one finger each hand - each finger pushing on one side block. Try this with the X axis also.

    If you pluck the long belts like strings they should make a low pitched note.

    The short belts (to the steppers) should be much tighter - quite tight. Maybe 3Kg force pushing down on the stepper while tightening?

    In one of the photos from overhead one of the curved edges was almost not touching the second shell layer inside. I think that's the main problem. Higher temperature may also help but I think this is mainly "backlash".

    Please gr5 se this video.

    https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B44jifdi0ZbBckpISG5RYW4tMTg/edit?usp=docslist_api

    Layers not bonding

    in Coffee corner

    Posted

    i just tried at a higher temp. i have to get to 265-270 before i get good layer bonding. everything below gives bad bonding. but now i have little trouble with skipping steps of the x axis. now I'm trying to mount a better fan onto of my ramps to see if it was overheating.

     

    Layers not bonding

    in Coffee corner

    Posted

    gr5:

    Thanks for your fast answar. Ill try with higher temp tomorrow and ill check my belts. But last i checked , they were quite tight. I could maybe get some friction because of the endcaps. I Got the fine tuning endcaps from thingiverse and i really dont like em.

    But when i watch the layers be printed it looks like it touches each other, or maybe it doesnt look like that?

    I tried lowering the size og the filament and Then the print looked wierd ..

    Layers not bonding

    in Coffee corner

    Posted

    Hello folks.

    I have been having this problem from the beginning of my time with ABS.

    Heres my setup:

    Custom Ultimaker with ramps 1.4

    Airtripper Bowden

    1.75 Blue ABS from RRW

    Using cura. (Slic3r gives wierd results for me)

    Hotend: E3D v5 , 245c first layer, 240 rest.

    Heated bed: Mk2a, 100c first layer, 94 rest.

    The picture should tell everything.

    But my observation is that the layers Wont Bond correctly , i Can peel the layers of the print. (I Got No fans blowing)

    Please help me out, i have building a prusa and Then this UM and havent Got 1 print out of it yet.

    gr5 edit - added link to pictures:

    https://docs.google.com/folderview?id=0B44jifdi0ZbBSlVPbDlVSjI1X0U&usp=docslist_api

     

    Ultimaker 1(Original) Z plate not level

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    gr5:

    Well I'm used to the 3D printing world. i just had a Prusa i3, but decided to go the Ultimaker way.

    And i know that i could hang it with a robe and it should still work.

    But the problem i just had was that the build plate was not very level to the rest of the printer.

    i sort of fixed it (still not satisfied). but i turned the build plate 180 degrees, that helped.

    i think the wood is a little bend.

    but ill definitely gonna ask sooner or later about leveling the nozzle to bed. Because on the i3 i had i couldn't get any good prints. because of nozzle height and x carriage wasn't linear.

    Maybe ill develop another z build plate later on, but for now ill have to live with what i have.

    Profile updated ! :D

     

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