dirkels

On just glas prints don't stick very well and I get a lots prints that warp, and I don't like to mess around with glue sticks or other messy solutions that have to be applied over and over. On this plate I have good results even with the heated printbed turned off and on 40 degrees my most warping print stuck to the bed perfectly. Edit: and with no or low heat printing starts a lot faster ;-)

Never had any problems with the filament from 123inkt either. So far have used, gray, black, green, orange, and gold.

Besides the question was already answered in the the first post.

Got one of these plates recently (Netherland) and payed $85,- (€63,18). So with the plate being $65,- the shipping cost are $20,-. Btw: really happy with it it sticks really well, only pity is that is slightly lower than the original glas plate so you need something extra under the clips to hold the plate securely in place. I'm using US cents for that ;-)

Apart from diameter I would think you should be able to use the same settings as for 2.85mm. It more depends on material type (PLA, ABS, Nylon, Flex, etc..) and can even vary depending on brand and color. So just look around on this forum for specifics. Only thing that is more or less for sure is that slower speeds usually give better quality.

I have no experience with 3mm filament (I think, never actually measured it) but I would make a custom material type. Under Material -> Settings -> Customize you can set the Diameter of your filament. That seems the likely starting point in same menu you can also increase the flow rate a bit when needed. When Storing these changes with Store as preset it looks like you went back to the previous menu but actually you have to select as what entry (PLC, ABS, CUSTOM? or New preset) you want to set these settings. After that you get back to the settings menu which you than can leave with Return. Don't forget to select the CUSTOM? material if you stored the settings as New preset. Warning: read that lots of people get blockages with 3mm filament as the ultimaker is designed for 2.85m

Might help if you include a link to the robot, like: http://www.123dapp.com/Project/Adabot/2469164%20;-)

Can you belief it, just as I was reading the part about protruding axis in Roberts excellent guide one of my rods decide to give me a visual demonstration of it and protruding out so far the other side popped out its hole and crippled my Y-axis :sad: Having just read the part I recognize that I had all the tell tail knocking sound. Today it was to hot after work to fix it but hopefully I find the time tomorrow to put things straight en torque the hell out of things, as I read in an other thread here.

Used to play around with modeling in povray to make images like gr5 showed. But only started 3D designing seriously after I decided I wanted a 3D printer about 2 years before I really got one this March. Like DonMilne I have never gotten along with 'real' CAD programs but luckily there OpenSCAD with which I (being a programmer by trait) can get along with perfectly :smile:

Bookmarked, will give me something real useful to read now my TV receiver is broken :-) Many thanks for the hard work and sharing. :arrow: And pinning is IMHO mandatory.

@gr5. Was thinking about using your technique but then with the full 6 colors of my avatar (7 counting badge). Might need some manual tweaking of gcode to avoid passing over already printed avatar parts but but when I can get all six parts printed cleanly the result should be worth the many hours I will spend on it :grin: But big thanks for sharing this technique, I'm sure I will use it not only on this idea but many more to come, like personalizing my N-sided jewel box design (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/n-sided-jewel-box). Will make sure to give you the credit you deserve.

Ok, will design a nice label with forum avatar on it to print and wear next time ;-)

Just received a 200x200x3 mm carbon fiber print plate :smile: after 2 prints I'm pretty happy with it, the second print was a part that even with brim had the tendency to warp. Now I printed it without brim and it printed without any warping. Need to do some more testing over the next few days (like use the same material as when I got the warping) but initial warp test went well. If there are suggestions of difficult objects that have a high warping factor I would love to hear and test those. So far the only draw back I found was that the 200x200 form factor was too small for the automatic 3 point levelling procedure of my UM2. But the plate is as rigid as the glass plate so I did the levelling with the place loose and sliding it to the places where the procedure wanted to level and tapped it with heat resistance tape to the platform.

Same here, good to be back at the place I lost my 3D printing virginity ;-) Was amazed by how simple and elegant the paste-struder concept was. And indeed it was good to see the some of the faces I learned some much from on this forum.

Welcome, After your comparison to Replicator's I'm glad that I decided for the Ultimaker even with the 2 month waiting time back in December. Again and again it is proven to be worth the wait :-) @skint: hope you did not disagree with general impression that Lieven liked the Ultimaker 2 ;-)

Keep in mind that what seems obvious for a human being can be very hard to implement in software. I run into that problem on a regular basis when customers ask why our system works in certain way and as they think is obvious.

Well I like my shiny new toy and like to keep it like that for a little longer ;-)

I takes me usually about an hour to get from Antwerp to Utrecht, but depends a lot on road works and accidents. Last few times I had to go past Antwerp going south I had at least an half hour delay because of accidents.

Just added my SD/MicroSD Holder to the next test version and draged and droped 1 SCAD & 42 STL files in one go and they all uploaded succesfully. It looked at time it was hanging (paused on some files for a long time) but in the end they all succeded. It took me quit some tries to upload all the STL files on the WWW site, so a BIG improvement. Keep up the good work. Now all I need is my request to be able to link one design document to several designs to be implemented and I'm in ultiheaven :wink:

I will be there, straight from work, which is only a few honderd meters away from the fablab Protospace. But since I travel by bicycle I will not not be bringing along my printer but hope to learn enough to reproduce at home. :smile:

It's indeed not a backplot function but just just to retrieve the settings used to make the gcode. But this probably only works with gcode generated by CURA. When CURA freezes when try this on a non CURA generated file that would be a bug in my opinion.

I suggest you check out this thread: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6087-start-working-with-cura-engine/%20hopefully%20your%20question%20is%20answered%20there. Hopefully your question is answered there.

@Antiklesys or design a small hole in the bottom of your print. Drilling in plastic can melt it. Edit: after thinking it over designing a hole in the bottom probably does not work, cura would generate a shell around it leaving you still needing to drill a hole :-( Only way it would work is designing it from the ground up as an hollow object, but that is a lot of work.

I agree that being able to specify how far the infill lines is preferrable. It gives better control over how far solid layers have to bridge.

Link does not work (not complete?) please update.