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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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  1. I lost the grease used to lube up the Z-axis... I have white lithium grease laying around. Can I use that? Thanks in advance
  2. Hey guys, I have another concern with the short sided-ness of these "special" materials. If we're just now realizing that they're damaging to our printers, how do we know whether or not they could be incredibly toxic to us? Worst case scenario 20 years from now people look back and think it was so stupid we were experimenting with these materials when we all have cancerous mutations from our 3d printing. I see these new experimental materials coming out faster and faster and I'm sure everyone wants an edge on the market. Something thats been in the back of mind mind. I don't know what fill
  3. Shoot! I'm sorry to hear that you can confirm yours is going bad too. This is just a big bummer since a new nozzle is going to be so difficult for me to get :(
  4. Thanks everyone for taking a look. I didn't know abrasive materials could do this. You can see in my print that over the course of 40 hours it got worse and worse, which is clearly evident of the nozzle wearing down over the course of the print. @colorfabb I only used the atomic bob method of cleaning the nozzle. Heating it up, cooling it, and then pulling out the filament. Before this, the bronze fill and glow fill were the only special filaments I used, but neither for as long as these last two prints. I wasn't planning on doing such a long detailed print with the glow fill but it was the
  5. Also, the best way to replace this is the Ultimaker store for replacement parts? Getting the little nozzle shipped to the US all the way from the Netherlands?
  6. @illuminarti - Yea, it's a weird one for sure. I only noticed it when I was doing these long prints with the glow material. I wonder if anyone else has done 40 hour prints with colorfabbs glow material and also experienced some sort of chemical reaction? As for the inside, It's difficult to tell but it looks relatively normal to me. The only thing that makes sense to me is the tip squishing the material creates some sort of reaction and erodes the tip? I have no idea. I guess I've got to buy a new nozzle :(
  7. Um, I think my UM2 nozzle is deteriorating? I am confused. I've been printing 40 hour ish prints with colorfabbs glow in the dark, My prints are getting worse and worse and I noticed my nozzle is getting flatter and flatter at the tip? I don't know how it's happening but looking at pictures of other nozzles, mine seems busted. Anyone know what this is about? Do I need to buy a new nozzle? Sorry for the bad quality pics
  8. Hey Ron! Let's have a 3d printer party soon! :ugeek:
  9. Yea, the Ultimaker 2 is ok... i'd recommend it :ugeek:
  10. Not painted. Not even finished. Just snapped off the supports. The material is from Protoparadigm: http://www.protoparadigm.com/products/3d-printer-filament/real-world/brass-1/ Looks nothing like brass but I was pleasantly surprised at the look... Almost looks like translucent flesh :cool:
  11. Here's a new print. Took about thirty hours. Default supports in Meshmixer worked great. It's sort of a wall mount maybe to hang your keys or something
  12. Hey guys- So i got an hour long print to work. I was printing around 30mm/s then down to 20... But when I put it went to the recommended 40 it printed fine. Seems weird to me that the material is less likely to jam the faster it prints. Does that make sense? I keep the temperature higher around 220 and my layer thickness around .08. A little nervous that this material is so fickle, but the prints that came out are really great. This is a game changer for sure. I'm hoping to work up to 30 hour prints with this stuff, so hopefully no more problems in the future. I'll try to keep everyone up
  13. Profepaco- according to colorfabb: "Depending on your set-up, 3d printer and slice software, you might see that bronzeFill needs a bit more flow compared to your normal PLA settings. Most plastics will show die swell when coming out of the nozzle tip, this is counteracted with specific slicer settings. Since bronzeFill doesn’t show a die swell such as PLA you might need to increase flow rate a bit, 4-8% was perfect for our UM2. UM original did not need any adjustments."
  14. Cool. Thanks, Gothampixel... -Brooklyn dudes with UM2s :cool: I'll try again... idk what it could be. I'm think it has to do with the tension spring. Is yours at the tightest setting? Ugh, i hope it works.
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