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Something very simple. A lens cover for my Oculus Rift DK2 camera, to protect my privacy. It's an IR-camera with some filter for visual light. But that's what the camera can see (with no "recording light" visible!): https://developer.oculusvr.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=11385&start=80#p167636 A little bit paranoic, I know. For that reason I have printed it in "aluminium foil silver"

Latest Lisa/S and Paparazzi presentations from the IMAV 2014 in Delft. Bart Remes about the Lisa/S (Start at 1m:15s): Gautier Hattenberger about Paparazzi (Start at 1m): OT: Would it be possible to enable the time parameter in YouTube? (the "&t=1m15s"). Tried it with different videos, but didn't work embedded in the forum. :(

I like the survey, too. Could you add the prefered controll to the survey? (Classic RC, Smartphone/tablet with an app, selfmade (eg. based on Arduino) or some way to use a game controller)

The small "autonomous" machines are not that cheap. Way more than the toys in this size. But the "autonomous" functions are the next, interesting steps in this field. The basis version of the Lisa/S without a frame and without motors is $410. I would use some old motors of one of my Hubsan. The version with motors and frame is at $500. :( EDIT: And I have already a Spectrum DX6i Controller. So I'm a little bit biased. But I have no connections to 1bitsquared.

The big quadrocopter are cool. But I like the smaller ones more. The small ones are more flexible with the flight area and are more mobile to carry around. I really like the Lisa flight controller and the paparazzi auto pilot (open source). The new "Lisa/S" by http://1bitsquared.com/ has Accelerometer, Gyroscope, Magnetometer, GPS, Barometer and can sent the telemetry data back to the ground station. A small frame for a quadrocopter is faster to print, too. More info about the Lisa/S in this interview (starting at 1m50s):

A 3D Printed Brushless Motor: http://hackaday.com/2014/07/30/a-3d-printed-brushless-motor/

For everyone who is new to this topic, I suggest to watch the videos by Hak5 and http://1bitsquared.com/

Ah, ok. Good to know.

Hmm, that doesn't look right to me. Is it possible that the tweezers could fall down? I remove the penel sheet and secure the motor with a sticky (duct) tape. The small nipple on the bottom of the penel is close to brake for me. :(

It would be nice, if you could design a feeder in the future, without using all the screws from the feeder motor. It's a little bit anoying, that the motor get loose on removing the feeder.

There is Airloy it has nearly the same thermal conductivity, but it's not brittle. And for aerogel, you can DIY. "Applied Science" did this:

I have used the friction welding only with printed parts in PLA and welded them with the same filament. The idea is to melt both parts and the filament at the same time to get a really good bonding. It's a thin line between drilling/milling and welding with the filament. It will need some pratice. A dremel with speed adjustment is recommended.

I would use superglue, too. And in addition to that I would try to friction weld it with some filament and a dremel. That is working really nice. It helps when the seem has a (small) v-shape. http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.de/2014/01/how-to-friction-weld-plastic-with.html http://hackaday.com/2012/12/31/make-your-own-plastic-friction-welder/ EDIT: Try it on some old printed parts first, to get a feeling for the procedure.

@Didier, @Valcrow: Yesterday I stumbled upon this tool: http://www.fabbaloo.com/blog/2014/7/8/endless-filament-with-the-fuse-welder EDIT (more info): https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/fuse-welding-filament-clamp-for-3d-printers With welded filament the retraction would work.

Auf Nachfrage bei Ultimaker wurde mir so eine kleine Tube mittlerweile zugeschickt.

Ah, I see. I was misleaded by this article: http://www.3ders.org/articles/20140709-german-reprap-introduces-all-in-one-3d-printing-software-simplify3d.html The solution for support structures looks interesting.

RepRap has released the slicer software "Simplify3D": https://wiki.germanreprap.com/en/manuals/simplify3d EDIT: Found this: http://www.simplify3d.com/support/hardware-setup-guides/ultimaker/ ---- If someone made a profile for the UM2, please post it here. Is the g-code 100% compatible with the UM2? ----

I have not a clue. I would welcome a "ready to upload version" of this firmware, too.

Hi, I would second your requests. Take a look at the "nerd-fork" of the firmware: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5990-nerd-fork/ I have not tested it (yet). It seems it has all the information on the display. (hours are with decimals, not with minutes. But the information is there)

I have printed your new file with success. And not that much bending. I have had more problems with bending before with other objects and other materials. Maybe this material didn't tend so much to bend the edges. You can see all the flaws really strong with this material. Especially in macro shots (In reality the object looks much better). ColorFabb "Shining Silver" Temp:215°C Infill: 100% Speed: 100% (based on your values on YouMagine) My main problem is the stringing.

I'm one of the users with problems to play QuickTime in the forum. - Win7/64 - Tested with Firefox and IE - QuickTime V 7.7.5 is installed I get the QT-Logo and after some seconds a big qustionmark over it. Quicktime is the worst container for videos nowadays. I would prefer AVI or WebM over QT.

Your observation is correct. The leveling is the most important factor of this issue. For very good results the best solution is to add a bevel/chamfer to all your bottom edges. (the bottom face). A chamfer with the size of the "initial layer" OR "initial layer" + "layer hight" seems a good value.

Printing it right now. UM2 Maybe I have found good settings for my printer and material. But with your test object I have nearly no issue with raised edges. IMHO with circles as a profile for the pillars, the edges are not raising that much. Maybe a quadratic profile for the pillars will lead to more intense raising. Or a more extreme angle of the pillars. I have used the settings you mentioned on YouMagine. PLA ColorFabb "Shining Silver" Temp: 217°C [EDIT: Robert's feeder] [EDIT2: I'm using 0% infill, maybe that reduces the issue, too.] I'm not happy with the surface. Will test a print with lower temp later.

OT: The same here. (Win 7 - Firefox and IE) The QT-Logo is shown, but no video is starting.

This is fixed in the latest firmware. ( I prefer the firmware with some fixes by illuminarty: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5935-z-axis-homing-inconsistent-on-um2-workaround-and-patch/page-6#entry57095 ) I have had the same problem, but since the fix I get a really good reproducable start. After leveling I measure the skirt and fine tune the leveling as you describe. The leveling is stable for many prints now. I'm very happy with the new firmware.