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Why is there this hardwired connection between retraction and combing? Couldn't be this a seperated option to activate / deactivate the retraction with combing on? Why would I activate it on a specific layer and not for the whole print?

@Skint: http://software.ultimaker.com/Cura_closed_beta/

Very nice. Is it printed in one piece, or multiple parts? Do you have some structures to connect/adjust them? (In case of multiple parts)

I have the impression, that the mesh is not printed.

How do you fill the seams where you have glued the parts? After the primer the seams are gone. Is this only by the primer or do you have used some filler before?

Cor3ys, I'm impressed by the quality of the surface, too. Nice coating. It comes close to the version by Adam Savage, and that one has real chromium coating. (I didn't know, that it is possible to chrome plastic until this video) The video is a nice reference.

For recycling I wouldn't argue only with the price of raw material. IMHO it could be cheaper to recycle the material. With 3D printing you get a lot of waste (test objects, support material, failed prints ...). The wasted material is clean and in high quality. One advantage of additive manufacturing is, that there shouldn't be that huge amount of wasted material. I'm astounded how much wasted material my printer is producing. It annoyes me to dump that material. As a producer of an extruder, I would argue with the advantages of recycling printed objects. But there has to be a tested workflow for this.

Thank you Dim3nsioneer, I have to test disabling combing and the plugin. ... the plugin ... where can I find the plugins for cura?

I have observed the same behaviour. Single lines on the clean, nice surface made by these pathes/movement. Retraction is on. But it seems, that cura is not adding a retraction command before these pathes. (I have not looked in the gcode). I got some material on the infill, too, on these movements. It looks really like there is some extrusion of material at the time of the movement. (Looks like a bug) Maybe as a workaround there could be an option for lifting the head on pathes over finished surfaces (if it's on the same layer) Sometimes the path could be more optimized to take the shortest line over a finished surface. EDIT: Some sample image with material over infill. Seems the same problem. It doesn't look like smearing, it looks like added material on the movement to the new printing position. EDIT2: Combing and retraction are on for this print.

Hi Tim, thank you for your posting. - Do you have tested to recycle printed objects (PLA)? - A diameter of 2.9mm sounds good. The Ultimaker 2 will need filament smaller than 3mm. 2.85mm +/- 0.1mm would be perfect.

About bigger dirt particles: The Filastruder has a "Melt filter", a 250 micron wire mesh filter. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/833191773/filastruder-a-robust-inexpensive-filament-extruder/posts/595647 Sounds good. Some nice testimonials: http://www.filastruder.com/pages/testimonials hmm ... $300 for the filastruder kit. http://www.filastruder.com/products/filastruder-kit But they have only a 3.0mm nozzle, with +/- 0.1mm. That would be to thick for UM2. :( That's bad. :(

Good to know, bookmarked. Thanx.

If the objects are clean, than there should be not that much dirt. I would maybe shredder them with a blender by Blendtec ( https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=will+it+blend ) And mixing it up with new PLA pellets (only 10% of the price of filament) should be no problem, too. I'm not that afraid about a little bit of dirt in the filament. After printing with woodfill, I think that particles in the filament are not that problematic with a 0.4mm nozzle. IMHO it could be more problematic with a smaller nozzle. (EDIT: lost a part by inserting the link)

I'm interested in this topic too. Not just as a joke. Recycling would be to much OT for this thread. I have started a new one here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5550-extruding-your-own-filament/

Hi, is there a good possibility to recycle my test prints? There are some successfully founded machines on kickstarter to extrude your own filament. Someone here have tested one of these? I'm a little bit skeptical about the tolerances of the resulting filament. The option to extrude filament out of much cheaper pellets seems nice. To recycle my failed prints or the ones for testing would be a big advantage, too. Maybe it's a little bit problematic to shredder the old objects without heating them up to much. (Will it blend? ) Some of the founded extruders on kickstarter: filastruder - I like the video : ExtrusionBot (impressive extrusion speed) : Filabot (has a simple shredder, IMHO to weak for objects) : Two others are Filafab and STRUdittle: Is there one I can buy already? What do you think about producing your own filament?

Nur als Hinweis: In den aktuell ausgelieferten UM2 (vor knappen Monat erhalten) ist der Wert für "Acceleration Speed" schon auf 3000mm/s² eingestellt.

I have had the same problem with - new UM2 - Ultimate PLA blue I have had a lot of support structures made with meshmixer. The result has a lot of small columns. There you print only a small spot for every column (0.8 - 1.2mm in diameter) with retraction after every column. There I have had the jamming with filament looking as the one by AxelEriksson. It jammed more than once at around the same hight. Tried a little bit with different retraction length, but the final workaround was to reduce the amount of support structures. After that I was able to print that part. I'm not sure what parameters to set, to print objects with a lot of support with meshmixer. Some ideas? Sample images of these support structures: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/gallery/image/5055-tank01/ http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/gallery/image/5053-tank03/

Nice. To get rid of the whitish surface (sanding on 4th picture), you can wash him with warm/hot water (not to hot). And rub with your finger the surface. It will help a little bit.

Thank you! Will retweet it.

My latest print is a wooden mask (Model by Michalis on BlenderArtists [1]) First time that I have printed with a different material than PLA Ultimate blue. I was to curious to test the woodfill by colorFabb. I have found this nice rendering by Michalis on BlenderArtists and I thought that it would fit perfect for a woodfill print. I really like his artwork. (Sculpted in Blender and rendered with Cycles by Michalis) [OT: Blender has some good sculpting tools, too. Incl. dynamic topology.] At first I have printed a small version with Ultimate blue PLA to test the model and painted it with white primer. Then I have loaded the colorFabb woodfill (fine) and started a bigger print: The woodfill is a difficult material to print. I have had some jamming and clogging. Don't print to hot, over 210°C the material will turn into charcoal. You have to avoid that the material will stay to long in the heated nozzle. For a good print I have had to increase the "material flow" to at least 120%. The final print with woodfill: After cleaning up the model, I have used some mordant (wood stain?) to color it. Turned out really good. Looks like wood. Couldn't get a neutral lighting. In reality it is a combination of the red and the dark brown. That is how it looks with other wood material on my shelf, really like it: Way more photos in my Album: Thank you Michalis for the model. [1] http://blenderartists.org/forum/showthread.php?294033-Michalis-s-sketchbook

Thank you. I have no clue which tank it is, sorry. He said, that at least the middle part was made out of concrete, maybe that is a hint..

Thank you. Got a good discount on my big shopping and a small obolus. I hope a model making shop is a nice contact for some interesting jobs in the future.

Visited my local store for model making to buy some paint and glue. There I have showed some of my prints to explain my demand. The employee (owner?) was so excited about the possibilities, that he requested some parts for a tank he is working on and he was failing to rebuild them by himself. He ripped a new box with parts of a 1:35 tank, gave me the following three parts and said that he would need these in 1:16. I have underestimated the amount of work to measure these parts (some strange angles and radii), but I think it worked out really well. Modelled in FreeCAD and Blender Support with Meshmixer PLA, Ultimate Blue Temp 208° Bed: 65° Infill: 25% Speed: 40mm/s Layer h.: 0.1mm Print time: ~2h, ~4h, ~7h He is really happy with the result. I'm curious to see his final model. Some more images in my album

Thanx. There are some issues with the support structures, it was a lot of pain to remove it. I should have printed it with a little bit different orientation. And maybe with fewer structures. Main issue is the wall thickness on some spots. The whole modell needs to be printed some percent bigger to avoid these problems. Or I have to modify the modell itself. The paint on your walker is very impressive! I like it. :geek: what do you mean by "quick wash..", is this a style/look or a technique to paint? Would you use some brown paint with a lot of thinner to finish it? It's over 20 years ago, that I have painted some D&D figures. Can you recommend some pages with painting tutorials/techniques for real modells? Like the page where you got your rust tutorial from.

My first organic print is a scanned skull. Not my modell, Size: little bit over 2cm Fil.: Ultimate Blue Temp 202° Bed: 65° Speed: 30mm/s Layer h.: 0.06mm Printing: Finished Print: Support removed (kind of ... many problems there. I saw them later on my photos. Next time I have to check the images before the primer. : (Ordered a lamp with magnifying glass.) First layer of primer (ArmyPainter: ColorPrimer - Skeleton Bone): used my simple painting box. I have used a little bit to much primer on the face, but it was hard to get the primer in the holes (Eyes and nose) Result: I'm happy with the result, In reality it looks much better than on the makro shots. I think I'll reprint him with a different orientation. More in my Gallery Album: