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Everything posted by solid-print-3d

  1. @twistx, thanks, but no...The screws are greased just fine. Picture this - You've got a large part printing...probably takes 5 minutes just to do 1 layer. You're about 2 minutes into a layer, where the z screw should not be moving at all, and it starts to take on a mind of its own. It starts click every 2 seconds or so. Now, the screw is nice and greased. It slides up and down smooth. It homes good, it prints good (otherwise). From what I gather, the stepper motor always has current? Maybe there's an interruption in the current flow?
  2. Z screw is clicking during prints, sometimes jumping 10 layers down. It's clciking is similar to when the feeder motor cant push filament and returns to its last good configuration...a click.... one mississippi, ....two mississippi, CLICK! Over and over again. When I put my fingers on the Z screw, you can feel it try to make a 2 deg turn or so, then back to the original spot, which is what is making the clicking. I've uninstalled Cura, reinstalled and tried slicing new gcode. I used to think it was for one part, now I find that it's doing it on a different part. I've reset to factory default on the printer (at least I think I did). I've used different SD cards (again, I'm pretty sure I did) I say, "at least I think I did" becasue this has been going on for a couple of weeks now, and it comes and goes. At first it was just an annoyance, now, I'm wasting lots of filament and money becasue of this. Has anyone had this issue with a "possessed" Z screw?
  3. Just thought I'd share this technique with some of the new guys... I designed this part to be printed in ABS. A crucial factor for a successful print was NO WARPING. The first print I let Cura throw in some brim. It started to warp about 20 or 30 layers in. Then I tried it again with a bag over the UM2, and a plexi panel to block the door. Started to warp at layer 60 or so. Went back to the drawing board... redesigned part with my own brim. This time, 2 layers thick, opposed to Curas 1 layer, which breaks free from the glass pretty easy on large prints like this. I think I designed in a .22mm layer brim, and in conjunction with my .1mm initial layer height and .14mm print layer height, Cura rounded off to print 2 layers....Much stiffer, adheres to the bed better, and is still very easy to remove...if not easier. Printed again... warped towards the end. So I decided to add the ribs at the base, one on each corner, all the same length, and all .8mm wide, for 2 passes. I put the bag back on the top, covered the door and let her cook for 12 hours or so. Success! And by success, I mean flat as the glass she was born on. Here's an image of the model in Cura And here it is printing Here is an even more critical part, where the two halves mate together, there could be absolutely no warping, or functionality would fail. here are the links in case your browser won't display the videos Same methods of designing in a double brim, and ribs at corners really kept the part flat. So, if you have a part that is similar and wont print flat, maybe these techniques will help you. P.S. I am not a gun nut. I printed this as an advertising campaign. It is completely legal where I live to do so. Please do not go printing guns and saying Pat from SolidPrint said it was OK ... I am into archery however...PM me to see my 3D printed compound mini bows
  4. @twistx, You can actually repair that while you wait on a replacement. Check out this post I did where I replaced mine. I was in the middle of a job and couldn't afford to wait for a replacement. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7151-ultimaker-2-temperature-sensor-error/ It's actually not that hard if you have a dremel and a soldering iron
  5. Try to familiarize yourself with turning the bed screws while it's printing a large part. You really will be able to fine tune it much better calibrating it on the fly, opposed to just sticking with the paper only method. I find that each of my 5 or 6 brands of filament all have slightly different characteristics when printing the first run. For instance I have some jet green that has to be printed so thin it almost looks like nothings coming out...of course I make sure to tell Cura to set the first layer to .1mm so I'm not over extruding the first layer. Another method I've had luck with is to tune it with the power off. I push the bed up to the nozzle, stick a piece of paper under it pretty tight, and hold the Z screw from turning with my left hand and move the head around and turn the bed screws with my right hand, constantly tunining it. It becomes pretty easy when you visualize how each screw affects the plane of the bed. Then I power on, andrun the calibration wizard. I only rotate the dial to raise the bed to the head, with a paper under the nozzle. Once the nozzle is nice and snug against the paper, I skip the next 2 steps (left corner, right corner) then I double check one more time at the rear on the 4th step, and again skip the 5th and 6th (left corner right corner), becasue I already know that the bed is perfectly parallel with the X,Y plane due to the hand leveling I did with the power off. This is a more, I wouldn't call it "advanced", but it is more involved... good for people with OCD
  6. Looks like it's just printing a super thick first layer... What is your initial layer height set to? Try leveling the bed with a little more tension on the paper, or print something very large with 30 lines of brim or so, and as it goes around, printing that large brim, calibrate the bed on the fly until you get nice tight lines...make sure your Cura setting for initial layer height is set to .2mm or so. Don't forget to measure the filament, in case you haven't, and enter those values in the material menu of the printer. I'm sure one of the "big dawgs" will chime in with some more useful info, but that's it for now.
  7. I have a scrap chunk of foam lying around, when I need a new filter, I just cut a chunk off, cut a slit in it, and wedge it underneath the filament just under the extruder. Works great, easy to change, stays on fine, etc...
  8. Awesome idea. Fan may move a little during fast travel speeds, but I wouldn't think it would be too bad. I've tried using rubber bushings, but I was still using screws to mount the fan, so improvement was not noticeable. Let me know if you try this and get it working, cuz I'd sure like to get my machines to quiet down a bit (my older one is even a little louder now)
  9. Exporting form Autodesk Inventor 2014, settings = High , all units converted to mm I found out what it is as far as cutting off the bottom (well not really) It's something in my saved profile. I reset Cura's profile, and started from scratch and the problem was gone. Funny thing is the only thing that I could find different, when comparing profiles side by side, was the cutoff bottom is set to 0 on the skipped layer version, and 0.0 on the version that works? I'll double check that though. Also, there's no small part coming off the bottom, I made sure of that. Yeah, typo, .1mm first layer, and I've never had problems with .1 before, although I prefer .15 for a glass like finish, .2 tends to curl at tight corners sometimes...but this could all be relative to my bed leveling (and filament), which I use a standard piece of copy paper for (measures to .12mm). From there I fine tune by looking at brim and adjusting from there. To Sum it up, I uninstalled Cura, re-installed, started from scratch and it seems to be working. Now I have ANOTHER issue that popped up where the z axis is doing some really wierd stuff about 2 mm into the 4 squares print. 3 prints failed, and I thought it was a filament issue (using zeni ABS), but I just happened to be there when I heard a strange noise and saw the printer printing in mid-air and the z stepper clicking every few seconds... definitely some screwed up code somewhere, so again, I started from scratch and we'll see how that goes. If that remains a problem I'll post that on the troubleshooting forum. Thanks again
  10. Yeah, I cleaned the brand new glass that came with it, put a very LIGHT coat of hairspray on, and it looks like it's doing the same thing! I'll have to print a full size bed layer of a solid piece to get a better understanding of what it's doing, which should help me to narrow down...I'll post the images later, thanks for the help Illuminarti
  11. OK, here's an interesting 1st layer. This is on my new UM2. This is my backup piece of glass that was the original glass for mu older UM2. By the time it started the bottom right, I turned the bed screws out some for a thicker print, so the bottom right object is a little thicker. Since I do not have this problem with my new glass, it must have something to do with the glass itself. I'm hoping anyways, because I printed this with .1mm layer height, and I've only done a couple of other prints on the new glass at .2mm (surely I would have seen this even at .2mm?) This glass has several layers of hair spray on it. I'm thinking that weeks of my scraping off the hairspray with a razor blade and applying new hairspray have created the hills on the glass. But at such perfectly straight lines??? Still, a very strange initial layer. I will clean the glass, and reprint this exact same object to do a comparison.
  12. OK, here is another problem I'm having, not a big deal, but I'd like to know if it is a design thing ( as in, I'm the only one with this problem) or if it's a known Cura bug. These 4 squares are built on the X,Y Plane. When I load them into Cura, this is what I get... slice view, layer 1 The bottom does not touch the platform apparently, so I'm assuming it just moves on to the next layer. SO, I cut off the bottom layer by .03mm and it seems to fix the issue. No big deal, but I just ruined a print (AGAIN) becasue I forgot to check if the first layer was indeed printing. I usually always check my layer view before saving, but I forgot. When it skips the first layer, is it also skipping the .2mm layer height for the first layer, and trying to print a .4mm layer with .2mm worth of filament on the 2nd layer? Here are my settings Just another thing to add to my "Watch Out For" list
  13. BAHAHAHAHAA. Well, my new ultimaker prints at a finer X,Y, resolution than my 5 month old printer, both UM2's, most like due to the needles and brushing that have been used on the extruder tip. Now I have to design for 2 different machines....I don't think so ! I guess I'll get a new extruder block, so they wear at the same rate, or drill the older one out to .6mm ~.8mm and use that one for large, bulky parts. Does anyone have a link to some useful information about moving up to larger tips?
  14. Got my second UM2, This is the first thing I printed. a NEW FEEDER Printing the Roberts chain guide next, Then a new bowden clip (the one that slide over one of the knurled nuts on the print head. Then some rubber feet out of ninja flex. Am I forgetting anything?
  15. I don't think that's the right bowden tube. I just ordered a replacement and it was 19 Eur. , that one is 15 and has all the clips (mine did not). The part number for mine was 1266. I called and ordered it over the phone. Your "rage fit" reminds me of a friend of mine who used to stab his controllers with screwdrivers while screaming "I PRESSED THE B BUTTON!!!!"
  16. I could probably spare a day to help out. However, I don't do figurines, or really organic, artsy modeling. My brain just doesn't work that way You can see some of the free models I've made here : https://grabcad.com/thinkin3d-2/projects Those should give you an idea of my style, but usually when someone uses the word "sculpting" to describe a project, I go hide somewhere in a dark hole
  17. I went to my local glass store, and they told me they could order a piece of tempered glass for $25. I went ahead and just bought one from Ultimaker because the US glass thickness sizes were different. They only came in 1/8" 3/16" 1/4", etc. but the Ultimaker glass measured different (can't remember off the top of my head). The only reason I went ahead and got the Ultimaker glass is because I only needed one, so when I changed the bed out, I didn't want to recalibrate it.
  18. I completely understand, and it actually goes back to my broader question of "How do we know how Cura is going to handle it" So far it's just a guessing game, I design as close as I can to the printer's nozzle and layer heights, etc, and bring it in to Cura and adjust for best performance. Here's a prime example of a car part I'm making for someone. It is designed with walls and features in multiples of .4, as well as z heights of .2. I tried to plug in just a .4mm shell so it has all the freedom in the world to make the fill passes, only constrained by outside perimeter. This is what I get Fairly straight forward, but I notice a lot of extra work on the walls So I plug in all kinds of numbers, and come up with 1.3mm shell... I know right and This is what I get Almost 30 minutes faster, and nice straight lines on the wall. I like straight lines on relatively thin walls because the head is not going back and forth, shaking the wall. All in all, I'll just have to assume this will be a decent print, and that the parts will measure out right. Not sure how tricking Cura into making even passes on those walls is going to affect dimensions. I'll make a note to try 1.3mm shell on other prints
  19. I thought that too at first. I use Inventor and the object is perfectly square and constrained to all three origin planes. I've tried different export settings, but they all produce this effect. I suppose I could see if another .stl exporter may export differently, like solidworks. Unless you are saying Cura is bringing in the object offset by just enough to create this phenomenon.
  20. AH, that makes a lot of sense... BUT here's what originaly got me thinking about the .8mm shell Here is an image of a shape that is exactly 1.6mm thick, and .8mm thick at the semi-circles. I understand why it's filling the tapered section but there are straight sections it is filling also. This is where I got the 1.55mm from. Seems to do the trick. With the .8mm shell 35% fill with the 1.5mm shell BIG time difference there! In case you're wondering, here it is at .8mm shell, 100% fill The whole reason I started this was to get a better idea of how to design parts like this where I wasn't having to find magic numbers in Cura. A 1.55mm shell in one section of the print may not work in the other. The single pass shell - That's what I was saying about using loops to make the custom supports. In the end I don't mind it making 2 passes. I'm more concerned how much of an air gap to leave. Still trying to figure out the magic number for that one
  21. The part about anything with round features got me thinking, so I threw this rectangle together to see how a 1.6mm rectangle would behave if one of its corners were rounded. It's completely backwards from the 1.55mm shell trick! The 1.55mm trick induces fill with the rounded corner being added. And now we're back to 1.6 shell Just as it should be. Again notice the time difference of 27%!
  22. Just throwing up a quick post for any of you new UM users who have asked yourself, "Do I really need to use a filament filter?" This is before - Brand new foam This is after 2 DAYS of use! And it's dirtier than the photo shows! So yeah, do yourself a favor, go to the craft store or order some foam online and USE it. Can you imagine how much dust you'd be pumping through your poor extruder over the course of a year without a filter? *I do not print in a hermetically sealed environment. I print in a normal room
  23. OK, I have GOT to try this. Turn an aluminum insulator with heat fins (like an E3D) and coat the inside with this http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/paint-finishes/bake-on-aerosol-paints/teflon-moly-oven-cure-gun-finish-prod1145.aspx Then use dual fans if I have still have problems with PLA prints... Or just have one of my machines ABS only with this insulator.
  24. @Robert That makes sense. Would be cool to get a high resolution slicing view in Cura so you can zoom all the way in and see how it handles that. I still see the problem on rectangular walls though... I know the image I posted was of a spiral rectangle (it's what I was working on at the time) but I have seen the same thing happen with perfectly straight walls that run on the x and y axis. It's not really a "problem", but it does add unnecessary combing operations to the print that really add up when the object is 400 layers tall. @Arjan Could you elaborate? Not sure I understand what exactly you are wanting to document. When you say "How to make corrections in CAD", are you thinking of a ,tutorial, if you will, on how to make those corrections in CAD?
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