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solid-print-3d

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Everything posted by solid-print-3d

  1. In response to Sanders asking me to write something after I received my Form1+ So after Ultimaker announced they weren't coming out with the dual extruder, I thought I'd try another printer since I was in the market for another one. I decided on the Form 1+. I have 2 UM2's which can handle the large and tough parts, so I thought I'd go for something that could produce highly detailed parts, even though I'd have to sacrifice build volume. I suppose I could split large parts and glue together if needed, but keep in mind, the resin is $163 a bottle, shipped. Here is my first print. Both are printed using the same resolution. The part on the left is black PLA from my UM2, the one on the right is clear resin off the Form1+. Needless to say I was Impressed! The way the Form1+ prints just makes the layer lines all but vanish, and there's no boogers from retraction. An added benefit is that the part is super clear, and with minimal effort I can actually get it looking glass-like.Print times were probably a little longer on the Form1+, but not much so. Price is a different story. As you can imagine, the black PLA part on the left (which is the size of a 9mm bullet) is very, very cheap to produce. Talking a couple of pennies here. I did the math, and the Clear resin part on the right cost just over 17 cents. Now, you might say "Holy crap that's a lot more" but keep in mind that I have almost NO post process work to do on the clear resin print, whereas the black PLA needs about 2 or 3 minutes worth. Now, if I have to make 500 of these, that's 1500 minutes worth of prep, or 25 hours! I'd be happy to pay extra for the resin if it saves me 25 hours of prep work (even if it only saved me 10 hours, that's what $200+ worth of labor). Supports are also amazing on the Form1+. The software automatically tilts the object to the correct angle. No, you don't print flat like an FDM). It then goes on to automatically add supports, much the same way Meshmixer does, but easier. You can even easily edit the supports, so if it places one where you don't want it, you just move a dot around. Super easy. On top of that, they're very easy to remove. Comparing it to breaking off support from a PLA print is like comparing writing a novel to writing your signature. OK, I might be overdoing it with that last statement, but it really is easy. While I'm on supports, I might as well mention how the printer generally needs a lot less of them. You can actually get away with a lot more on the Form1+ than you can FDM machines. Impossible looking FDM prints can be done on the Form1+ with minimal amount of supports. Now for the bad. It isn't as dimensionally stable as the UM2. Both the prints have slits in them. The slits in the black UM2 print are dependably reproduced. Some of the clear prints fused the slits together. Not a big deal for this particular print becasue I just enlarged the splits a little so they didn't fuse. I haven't printed any large prints yet that need to have tight tolerances, but I predict more variation than the UM2. It's also a lot more, shall we say, messy, than an FDM printer. The resin smells god awful, and if it gets on anything, it's like trying to clean maple syrup up. I can see how over time, all my tools are going to have maple syrup on them, which is a little difficult to clean up. You'll also needs large amounts of high grade Isopropyl Alcohol on hand to operate. The parts need to be rinsed in one container of alcohol, then switched to another and rinsed again. This is a personal preference, but I'd much rather small acetone spills than Alcohol spills. The acetone evaporates and dissipates quickly, whereas the alcohol just lingers for a while. The build tray actually submerges itself in the resin, so I have no idea how I'm going to clean that up as the resin starts to harden from natural sunlight . Probably just buy a new one, $99. Which brings me to another down side. Operational cost. When I went to buy the Form1+, I had no idea that the resin trays needed to be replaced very often. We're talking 1 to 2 liters worth of resin, then it's time for a new tank, $60. The cool castable resin is the same price yet only comes in half-liter sizes. As mentioned earlier, you'll have to shell out $99 for another build platform (before shipping). And the last downside I can think of is the post curing. That's right, you don't just simply pull the part out of the printer. You pull it out, drown it in alcohol...twice, then you have to cure it with UV light. I used the sun (about 30 minutes to an hour) but if all your work is done at night you'll need to get a UV curing chamber or build one yourself. It's not that big of a deal for me, but it's an added step, and it looks kinda red-necky having crap outside curing all over the place Unfortunately, My printer had to be shipped back this morning due to a laser malfunction. I've been assured that I'll have a replacement in 6 days. Customer support seems to be good. Unfortunately it broke when Boston was being hit by the snow storm so employees couldn't make it into work for days. Just my luck. Still, though, it sucks that its only a week old and died. I've read several horror stories about people going through 3 printers before they received one that finally held up. Those stories tend to gravitate towards the original form 1, but it's something to think about. In conclusion, I really enjoy the Form 1+ for it super-fine detail, clarity with clear resins, ability to use castable resins for metal casting, nice software, and overall ease of use (if not messy). It's a great companion to the UM2's, and would be a great tool for anyone wanting to break the boundaries of an FDM-only setup.
  2. I've been doing some research on electroplating 3D prints. They make it look so easy. Apply an electrically conductive ink and plate the print (or other plastics) using a brush-electroplating method. Thought I'd ask if anyone has tried this. Here's the link to a kit I found. http://www.goldn.co.uk/plastic-plating-kit/ Here's the video they give of someone electroplating a golf ball. https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=czTjYlsct_k apparently I can't correct the title as there is no space between electro and plating
  3. I was suing PLA scrap parts to support my ABS parts in vapor chambers until I noticed that the Acetone was making the PLA flexible. Pretty cool if you're going for flexible PLA.
  4. I've tried methods on the heated bed by placing a print in a large glass jar that just fit in the UM2. I'd heat the bed, which in turn, would heat the acetone and vapor polish the part. Problem is, the vapor reacts a lot faster on the lower part of the print than it does on the upper part. I theorize this is becasue acetone is heavier than air, and sits lower in the chamber (at concentrated levels). A much better approach I've settle on is cold polishing. Simply place the part in a glass jar, or acetone resistant container. Drape paper towels over the insides of the jar and saturate the towels with acetone. Place the part(s) in the jar/container, and cover with a lid. Check back in 2 to 4 hours. I find that the acetone saturated paper towels that run the full length of the tub vertically gives a more even result. Furthermore, I've had even more success by cold vapor polishing for 2 or 3 hours... just until the surface begins to shine. I then remove the part and allow to dry and harden for several hours. Then it's back to the chamber for 2 or 3 hours.. Usually 2 to 3 applications work charms. I've gotten super glossy parts this way without over-softening the ABS, destroying too much detail, etc... Hope this helps.
  5. @Arian, LOVE it! Looks like you could get by with thinner gears, as they're not transferring any torque ( well, miniscule amounts and the RPM is relatively low) to save weight. Also, consider carbon instead of aluminum, as you can get super thin carbon pultruded tubes that are pretty stiff in short segments and weigh next to nothing, as well as being very affordable.(available through amazon, ebay or any reputable hobby shop) Also, instead of designing tie-in (or tie-down) blocks on top of the support structure (where it attaches string to kite), you could save a little weight by incorporating them (the holes) into the ends of the structure. Looks like CG might be a little off due to the large gear hanging off to the side, which you could correct by offsetting the tie down points as well. Another factor is inertia, whereas if the kite does sudden moves like dives, the center axis might need to be supported a little bit better, but this would be trial and error depending on final materials, adhesives, etc... Again awesome design!
  6. Was going to buy a 3rd UM2, but just bought a From1+ instead. The luster of future upgrades gone, the constant need for Teflon insulator replacements (at unrealistically high prices), and the way it looks Ultimaker is heading (cough...Makerbot marketing) has had a lot to do with my decision. Just wanted it documented that they lost a sale... no hard feelings, the UM2 is a great machine, but it's development has come to a stagnant stand-still.
  7. Make sure you set inventor to export .stl's in metric.
  8. I use aqua net hairspray, which works with just about everything else (except ABS). I did see if it would melt in abs to try to make a slurry with it, but no go.
  9. Has anyone tried Acetal filament (mine was from Gizmodorks) Can't seem to get it to print. Warps worse than any filament I've ever printed with. I''l try to call them tomorrow and ask, but I thought I'd ask you guys as well. For those who don't know, Acetal is a very slippery filament, which makes for great gears. It's so slippery, that when I tried to use a scrap of it for the atomic cleaning method, I had to hold it with pliers because I couldn't push it through the hot end with my fingers. It seems to print just fine, but multiple combinations of bed temp and nozzle temps yield the same result, the parts just warp like crazy in the first 2 or three layers, causing me to abort the print. So far I've just tried hairspray and blue tape (don't have Kapton on hand), with no luck. I've tried enclosed chamber and open. I'll post some pictures If I try again, and post any results I have if I'm successful Thanks
  10. That brings up a good point. Why can't we see any videos of what the "open source" R&D department came up with? As far as what issues they were running into? This might help us better visualize how to address these issues... this is an open source community, ISN'T IT?! With the new website (totally confusing), the Makerbot-like marketing (mini-regular and large), the empty promises (buy an ultimaker, we promise a dual extrusion upgrade)....... Ultimaker just doesn't seem like the Ultimaker I fell in love with. Combine that with an obvious design flaw with the insulator deforming quickly (and charging outrageous amount for replacements), I'd have to agree with others that Ultimaker is a victim of there own success. Their one redeeming trait is the warranty service. Living in America, Simon(illuminarti) has helped me out immensely! I'm sure he has a couple of people helping him out, but his attention to my machines problems and getting me up and running again is Ultimaker's saving grace in my book. As I've stated previously in posts, the squeaky wheel gets the grease. I'm hoping that my honesty will be heard.
  11. This is what I heard (no offense) blah blah blah NO DUAL EXTRUSION blah blah blah blah blah blah I guess I have mud on my face for all the clients that have come to the shop (several of which have gone on to buy their own UM2's) Cuz I'm sitting here telling them "Oh yeah dual extrusion is coming out first quarter of March". I could go on for pages... Just upset is all
  12. It also depends on what you need from the printed parts. The cheap Chinese stuff has to be printed hot, around 255, 260 becasue there aren't that many additives (if any) so the printed part tends to handle temperature better and seems to be a little tougher. The Cooler printing quality filaments that print around 235, 235 still hold up extremely well. The tradeoff between the two is print quality... which can often be overcome with the right settings and good tuning. An example of the cheap Chinese stuff would be JET (by cheap I mean price) An example of the quality stuff would be IC3D (USA) Again, don't know your local or even what printer you're using...
  13. For you hard core 3D printing geeks and designers out there (guilty), there is a challenge on GrabCad to design a hand rail clamp for NASA. Cash prizes, pretty simple project, plus you get the recognition that something designed is in space! https://grabcad.com/challenges/nasa-handrail-clamp-assembly-challenge
  14. To torch the nozzle, you have to completely disassemble the head, and remove the nozzle. I always warm up the nozzle before removing the set screw (and thermistor and heating element), and while holding the nozzle with a pair of pliers, unscrew the set screw. You then just use a low temp gas like propane to torch the nozzle (MAP gas will work in a pinch). From there just clean the nozzle of carbon at your discretion, using whatever you have on hand to get it nice and clean.
  15. I've run several miles of filament through my UM2's now.... When I have a problem, and change my Insulator and nozzle , it's like a new machine. I have changed the bowden tube ONCE on each, and I do use the torch method to clean the nozzles, so I'm not in the same boat as everyone, but if you are willing to torch the nozzle, replace the insulator, and periodically clean the bowden tube, then you should be good to go. The trick is having the spare parts on hand
  16. The LED'S on the newer machines are terrible. People probably don't complain enough becasue most people don't have multiple UM2's, but for those of us who do.... the new LED's might as well be turned off (yeah... they're that bright)
  17. You might have a main board problem? I had an issue where the z axis took on a mind of its own. Simon sent me a new board and all is well. One quick fix I di while waiting on the new board was to lower the Z stepper current (advanced settings motion control) to 900 mAh. Worked for me... Not saying that's what you're problem is , but at least it's one variable to test
  18. Just got an email from Simon today... Fbrc8 has been given permission to start selling spare parts here in the states!!! Simon says they should be up and running with the spare parts in 2 weeks or so. Hopefully I can say goodby to the 15 day waiting period on parts! P.S. Thanks Sanders, after you looked into my order the parts did ship (2 days later) but damn DHL is fast... Arrived in Cincinati at 5 AM, and was here in Orlando at 12 noon... WOW...
  19. Yes, my newer UM2 looks just ike the one on the right and @ tottenham12712 (damn what a user name ) , I understand the color shift over time... I'm talking about right out of the box! The newer UM2 (at least the newer one I have) has a completely differnt LED strip. The old LED strip had the diodes exposed, the new strips have the LED's encase in a resin shield.
  20. @Sander Order# 151758 Pretty bad when People who have hundreds of posts start to complain...I'm just saying...
  21. @Korneel Loose the Harbor Freight Calipers like they were on fire! Trust me
  22. 225 or so, can't remember specifically. maybe a touch hotter. I was using JET PLA-clear. Printer didn't seem to mind at all. Printed just fine. Layers are really, really, thick so if a smooth finish is your thing, then this would not be good for you
  23. It's not an LED life cycle issue. My brand new printer had very dim LED's compared to my older UM2
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