solid-print-3d
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Posts posted by solid-print-3d
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Speaking from experience, with multiple Um2's, and doing this as a business, I'd have to say both Ultimaker is right, and the consumer is right.
The ultimaker will burn through Teflon.
It will break the temperature sensor (eventually)
You will break glass (Part pulling up thin layers of the glass when popping them free)
Heater blocks will go bad ,especially you guys who like shoving things into the nozzle to clear them... remember, brass is soft, if you stick steel into the nozzle to clear it out, steel is harder and will scar the brass.
Having said that,
Ultimaker's support is the best in the business. Countless times they've replaced parts for me. Sure, I've had to buy several Teflon insulators, but that's the cost of running these printers.
As far as Ultimaker supplying spare parts with the printer... let's be honest... A LOT of people would throw on that spare part first sign of trouble...who doesn't like a fresh part on the printer if you think it may be the culprit. Those costs would just be tacked on to the printer price after a while...that's just business.
In the end... IMHO The UM2 (possibly the UM and UM+ as well) are rock solid performers, and it shows in almost every review. YES there is room for improvement... but that's true with almost every piece of technical piece of equipment you can buy today.
P.S. Still waiting for the Dual extrusion
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has anybody tried throwing a brozefill print in a tumbler?
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This is the company I get all my urethane and silicone supplies from. I've never seen this though, so I'll be adding some to my next order, good looking out
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OK, I gotta resurrect this topic
Nobody has dim LED's but me? (Sept model with the encapsulated LED's) Does anyone know of a way to test parts to see what's causing this?
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It's such a sore spot with me, the whole dual extruder promise that was broken...twice!, that I wince at new dual extruder posts
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I suppose its a plastic that has certain temperature and viscosity properties that make it suitable for running through the hotend for a minute or two at max temp, mixes in the whatever is left in the nozzle and extruding it on through. Seems like when you change filament, you could put a 2" piece in when feeding, then feed the new material right behind it , and let the printer run the cleaning portion out.
Sounds good in theory?
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http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7383-first-layer-fail/
becasue the head would move up and down along the XY. Was very easy to change...just loosen the pully set screws and slide the new rods in through, while pushing the old rods out. Front to back rods was a little different, but they were just as easy. Works good now.
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Has anyone tried this 3mm cleaning filament from eSun? I would normaly call BS on something like this, but they claim they were the first to make PVA filament, so maybe they have a decent R&D dept. and this cleaner might actually work, if just a little?
eSun 3mm Cleaning filament
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I can't wait until we can start printing single lines!
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-That shattered glass was awesome! Sucks, I know, but too cool
-That machine gun is the very definition of overkill, very nice.
-HP Printer is sweet. Also, looking close at what Autodesk is doing, and how it looks like their positioning themselves to be key players in 3D printing. Looks like more of a long term plan, but if you read between the lines....
-Sucks that skint may get fired...
Was printing for 2 days now with one of the bowden clips on one of the UM2's MISSING! Was noticing slight issues... went to do a cold pull today and noticed there was no blue clip on the head unit! That would explain some of the problems I was having
Seriously though, I thought I'd have more problems with a missing clip. I had just changed out my XY rods yesterday morning and forgot to put the clip back on. Printed a couple of heavy retraction prints with the missing clip -
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I for one would not be using the form 1 for something like that. I'll be using it for very small parts to compliment the UM2. Things like very small gears, very small text, miniatures etc...
Also, If I absolutely had to print a mechanical part on the Form 1, I would first find its printing characteristics, so I can modify the designs in a way that the end product prints to the desired dimensions.
Most likely, I would just be using it for the small, detailed prints though...
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Try setting your initial layer height thicker, or your layers thinner and see if anything changes.
If that doesn't work, try cutoff bottom.
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I don't know that selecting filament would be considered "troubleshooting"
check out this topic
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7964-usa-pla-filament-sellers-you-like/
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I actually like the loud noise of the Z axis when the print is done
Lets me know form anywhere in the building that a print has finished !
Sometimes I forget I have a print going....next thing you know, ZZZZEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
"OH a prints done!"
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Netfab basic is free,
or you can just go here and upload your model for automatic repairs.
https://netfabb.azurewebsites.net/
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that controller mount should have been designed in 3 separate pieces. If you can get a hold of the step file from him, I'll split it into 3 pieces for you... it will be much stronger than having those thin arms printed in the Z axis. Actually Solidworks will convert simple .stl's to step file, so If I have some time tomorrow I'll see what I can do.
Not really familiar with Meshmixer so good luck with that, someone else around here uses it daily, I'm sure.
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Ended up printing this from pictures over the weekend. Took 50 pics of my sons head while moving around him, uploaded to 123D catch, and voila! Not bad considering the program is free.
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Or you can do the rectangle project in 3 steps like this with some of the better CAD programs.
Step1 - create a sketch and give it XY dimensions
Step 2 - Extrude the sketch in the Z direction
Step 3 - Hollow out the rectangle using shell or similar tool.
Finished
If you want simple, it doesn't get more simple than that. It literally took me 30seconds to build a hollow rectangle.
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Then I would say... How large? How strong? What material? Are you going to split the hollow rectangle to overcome bridging/overhang problem at the top of the square? If you're going to split it, are you going to design in a way to attach the 2 pieces together?
If it's just a simple hollow rectangle, and you don't care that the top is going to look like crap becasue of overhang, then....
Wall thickness can be printed in anything over the nozzle diameter (well .42mm and on because Cura seems to skip .4mm walls). If you're going for maximum efficiency, then you can design your wall thickness to be a multiple of your nozzle diameter. For example, a nice strong wall may be 3.2mm ( or 8 passes of the nozzle if you set your wall thickness to 3.2mm in Cura). Most people don't do this of course, but if you're printing in something like T-Glase, or Bendlay, where transparency is key, then you don't want any fill, just nice even lines that run the perimeter. Setting shell thickness to 3.2 in this case would be very beneficial.
To throw a wrench in this thinking, the wall size has to be divisible by .4mm, then divisible by 2. For instance, our 3.2mm wall would have 8 passes, divide that by 2, and you get 4 pairs. If you were to try a 2.8mm wall, or 7 passes, 7 passes is not divisible by 2, so you're left with 6 perimeter lines, and one fill line in the middle (the 7th line). The fill may be fine for some parts of the model, while other parts it will try to fill in a diagonal pattern, which would degrade optical quality.
You might try and start with a cube that has been hollowed out to leave 1.6mm walls. (again 1.6/.4=4.... 4/2=2 ...good to go)
You can set your shell thickness in Cura to 1.6mm and it will print quickly and efficiently.
As for Z height, you would need to make sure that you're initial height plus the layer heights = 1.6mm. For example, .2mm initial layer height, and .2mm layer height would work becasue .2mm initial layer + 7layers at .2mm = 1.6mm.
If you have your initial layer set to .3mm, and your layer height set to 1.2mm, then your end result will not be 1.6mm. Cura will either delete a layer, or add a layer, depending on how close it is to rounding off to the next layer.
To get even more technical, for dimensional critical Z measurements, the printer needs to be tuned to print good. Then you'd print a test cube and measure the Z height. In other words, you have your printer printing great, and you proceed to print a 10mm test cube. The XY measurements measure out to 9.98mm x 9.99mm . Awesome, but your Z measurement is 9.85mm. You Have 2 choices here. You can accept that you need to add .15mm in to your design, or you can adjust the bed level to gain the .15mm. Designing the added .15mm in is like a carpenter who adds in the kerf of the saw bade (where the saw blade removes material), so adding .15mm is nothing new.
Then there's strength, where you DO want the diagonal infill. It's a lot like plywood, where each layer of wood is glued in a different direction to add stiffness. In this case, a thin shell of .4mm ~ 1.2mm would leave the rest of the wall to be filled with diagonal fill.
Let's not forget complex parts, where there may some aspects to the part that need to be printed absolutely perfect, whereas other parts of the print can have time consuming fill, extra travel, etc... For instance, if you your hollowed out rectangle had a feature in it that was more critical than the size, strength, or optical clarity of the rectangles walls, then you might set your shell thickness or layer height to print that feature better than the walls.
Almost forgot material. If you're printing in ABS, Nylon, Bendlay or other shrinkage-prone materials, then go ahead and plan on some shrinkage if your hollowed out rectangle needs to be dimensionally accurate then a 30mm x 40mm x 20mm rectangle might print out to 29.6mm x 39.6mm x 19.9mm. Again, printing a test cube and taking measurements from that will lend you insight to design changes you need to make. A 10mm solid test cube is not ideal for this. You're better off printing a test object with walls that are spaced further apart.
And now for splitting. If you are going to split the part, then you need to design in a small gap where two pieces fit inside each other. Think round peg in a hole. If you design in a 10mm hole, and expect a 10mm peg to fit in it, think again. Either the peg will need to be smaller, or the hole will need to be larger. Same goes for all tolerances, not just round holes. I have one machine that prints good with .15mm tolerance for a snug fit, while an older machine needs a .35mm fit. Materials can have an effect on tolerances as well, so again, do a test print and take measurements. I believe there are coin tolerance test models you can download, where you print the part and see if your coin will fit into the part. A more accurate method is to use machinists tools such as drill blanks. You could take a 8mm drill blank, for instance, and model a simple 4mm thick block with several holes, starting from 8mm and working up to 8.5mm in increments of .05mm. When it's printed, try and slide the blank into each of the holes and make notes on the sizes and how they fit. There are 3 types of general fits... Loose, Close, and Tight (we'll omit press fit for now) So if you blank fits into the hole that was designed at 8.25mm nice and snug but slips in and out with slight force (close fit) then you can start designing in +.25mm tolerances into your model when a close fit is needed. You may not need to model in gaps along the Z axis however, as the printer is much more accurate along the Z axis than the XY axis. This depends on the surface finish of the top layers, and weather or not you have designed layer heights in that correspond to Cura settings for layer heights. So,again, if Cura rounds up a layer, then you're tolerance in the Z axis will be too tight.
MAN! A lot to take in, and rather very difficult to sum up in a couple of paragraphs. Like I said earlier, there's no substitute for trial and error, experimenting, and practice practice practice. Make sure to take several notes along the way. Good luck!
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#1. Years of CAD experience, and I'm still revising the way I design for 3D printing. There's an art to visualizing a project and how it needs to be designed for 3D printing. They say an artist sees the final result of his work before he even starts... he just needs to go through the actions of turning it into reality. I fing it's a lot like that when designing for 3D printing, so be patient, it's a skill that comes with a lot of practice. Tutorials will help you learn the software, but there's no substitute for trial and error, hitting the forums, experimentation, and hands on experience.
#2. About 80% of the files people send me that have been designed in Sketchup have strange problems with the .stl's. Things like objects they didn't design in just floating off in space, parts not touching each other (such as a door handle 1mm away from the door), scaling issues, orientation issues, and the list goes on. I don't use Sketchup so I can't speak to the correct workflow (if there is any) for designing a rock solid .stl for 3D printing. If you plan on using Sketchup I would recommend making sure you're not picking up bad habits that will make for poor .stl's.
#3. Every part is different. What kind of drawing are you asking about? There's organic modeling and mechanical modeling. Mechanical modeling can then be broken down into parts or assemblies. Assemblies need tolerances built in, so It's a lot like designing several parts at once because each part relies on the others in the assembly.
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Assuming you've read all the other topics on feeders, Teflon insulator, general settings, etc....
Have you gone into layer view and looked at what the printer is doing in each layer? Some files I have like that bone you are trying to print are really messed up on the inside, and the printer does some really weird stuff. This has to do with some software exporting the .stl or .obj with voids on the interior. You can go into expert settings and try the different "fix" options on the bottom right of the expert menu and look at the layers, and see how they're printing.
Also, looking at your picture, you're first layer looks terrible! And those layers look like they're .35mm or something! EDIT--> Wow, that came off sounding like a douche, no insult intended
If I were in your shoes, and had to print that model, I would print it in .14mm~.22mm layers, I'd make sure my first layer was perfect. I'd make sure my layer view in Cura was showing a nice clean build. I'd probably open the model in Netfab and do a repair on it. I'd make sure all my settings were good, such as temps and speeds. I'd make sure my retraction settings were dialed in (usually 4.5mm ~ 5mm) by doing a retraction intensive test print (not the cylinder extrusion test).
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did you try lowering the z stepper current? Mine prints just fine at 900MaH, opposed to the 1300MaH that is set from the factory.
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That's too cool!
Just downloaded 123D catch, and 15 minutes later, already have a pretty good handle on how it works. Very simple program. Here is the Buddha from the tutorial/samples I tried at standard resolution (high resolution is also available)
Will be trying one of my children's heads later on to see how that goes. You can load the objects in to Mudbox or blender and tweak even more.
Thanks, very cool indeed
ABS printing not very good...
in UltiMaker 3D printers
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It's too small... print several at a time and make sure your retraction is set right... possibly up it from 4.5 to 5 in the menu. The fan idea is good if you're trying to print one at a time, but remember the heat from the hot end will deform the part unless you can move that heat away for bit... hens multiple prints at a time.
Try right clicking the part i normal view and multiplying it by 5 (6 part total) and seeing how they come out....from there you can gauge how it prints... multiple vs. single parts