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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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Everything posted by solid-print-3d

  1. @GR5 That's too cool! Just downloaded 123D catch, and 15 minutes later, already have a pretty good handle on how it works. Very simple program. Here is the Buddha from the tutorial/samples I tried at standard resolution (high resolution is also available) Will be trying one of my children's heads later on to see how that goes. You can load the objects in to Mudbox or blender and tweak even more. Thanks, very cool indeed
  2. Zeni- love the PLA's, not so keen on their ABS, to shiny, and pops a lot. Availability fluctuates ($30/Kg) Ultibot - pretty good PLA, haven't tried their ABS yet. They claim a +/- .05mm tolerance. I've gone through 3 rolls of black and haven't had too many problems. Z layers look great if you can get it dialed in really well. It tends to print hotter of the PLA's, and retraction needed some tweaking, but once it's dialed in it's good to go. ($35/Kg) Jet- (various sources) OK for the price, some diameter irregularities, but clean. PLA is OK, ABS is actually pretty good. It prints very hot which leads me to believe it will hold up to heat better. Their natural PLA is great for bulk work or prototypes($28/Kg) IC3D (ebay, amazon, and ic3d.com) - Great ABS. Print in the 230's so your Teflon will last longer. sands and finishes great ($33.50/Kg) 3d supply world - had some problems with shipping on my last 2 orders, but they have a ton of stuff in stock like ninja flex, T-glase, nylons, Bendlay, and more... all in 3mm. I've tried everything they have and everything's worked for me. (assorted prices $28-$80/Kg) Matterhackers - Too expensive for my liking. I go through a lot of filament, and don't need to spend $43 per Kg. It's just plastic after all. I know they sell the "standard" stuff at $31/Kg, but I haven't had a chance to try it yet...plus I think it's Chinese filament, so it's probably not much different than Jet) If I am doing a high definition project, I turn to my Zeni Kinetic PLA. Bulk work I go with JET or Ultibot PLA, for ABS projects, I go with IC3D or JET . But that's just me.
  3. Just model in your own supports and brim Here, I've loaded the .stl file into a rendering program, viewed it from an orthographic font view, took a screen shot, carried the screen shot over to my CAD program and traced the outline to recreate the top. Then I added supports that would support the rings better than a grid. Added a .2mm brim and done. about 10 minutes total time, and I'm pretty sure it will print. Learning to model in your own brim and supports is a valuable skill to have. I would recommend learning to do so to anyone who wants to really get the most out of their printer.
  4. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x2k3mx3JX24 He had to have known that if he lived in a country where guns are illegal, 3D printing them would ALSO be illegal. I'm fortunate enough to live in a country where we have the privileged of 3D printing guns for personal use, but with that privileged comes responsibility.
  5. Maybe the woodfill print failed becasue you were printing too slow? You can't let woodfill stay in the nozzle long while in Tg (glass transition stage). Carbon buildup forms and clogs the nozzle. I suppose you could have some sort of build up somewhere in the nozzle, which would mimic a bad insulator. If you're the hands on type, you can always inspect the hot end and insulator if you're continuing to get bad prints.
  6. I've heard that when the teflon starts to wear, the cold pulls will start to look something like this. How many hours do you have on the teflon insulator, and what material/temps are you printing? Speaking from my own experience, when I put new teflon insulators on, it changes many characteristics of filament flow (for the better) such as cold pulls, retraction, and feeder tension)
  7. yes, I believe it comes with the "download all" files if I'm not mistaken. I did try it, but still had some slight issues with it. I ultimately gave up on it when the filament slipped off the bearing multiple times. I'm on the other side of the fence in the feeder designs, in that I don't need a quick change design. I just don't use the quick change function yet...perhaps when the dual extruder comes out things will change for me, but for now, I'm happy with a rock solid feeder that just works. I've got a design I'm working on where it's basically Takeis feeder with a larger opening for easy debris cleaning, adjustment marks, and rollers like Sabastians filament guides. we'll see
  8. Takei's design does fit on the back just fine. I used it for 2000 hours without incedent. Finally had to retire it because the filament rubbing the entrance rubbed a large hole in it. It's distance from knurl to entrance hole is almost nothing, so flexible filaments work better, and there are better guides on the bearing, so the filament never falls off the bearing.
  9. I had a problem with Roberts feeder. The filament kept slipping past the bearing, creating jams. Also there was a little too much of a gap between the knurled nut and the opening for the bowden portion of the feeder, allowing the flexible filaments to bend (worked better than the stock feeder though) Sabastian's has the exact same problems I had with Roberts
  10. @ jweaver This is why it's so handy to learn to use CAD programs. I model in my own brim and supports most of the time. One day, when Cura is just about perfect , maybe it will work the way you want...until then, making your own supports and brim really works wonders.
  11. UltiArjans' feeder is pretty sick looking.... I just couldn't pass up on the opportunity
  12. Or do you mean separate parts of an assembly? Cura has a split parts function. I have to fit parts together often that require absolutely flat surfaces. Best thing to do is make sure they are stuck like crazy to the bed when printing. maybe someone else has some insight to working with warped pieces. Heat gun maybe? Find the perfect temperature in the oven so that you can clamp the two pieces together, taking out the warp? Belt sander?
  13. Torlon 4301 Torlon 4435 ALTYMID® 750 Meldin 7001 Meldin 6000 Duratron® PBI Plavis N These are the Vespel alternatives I've found so far. Interestingly enough, they all have a glass transition phase, whereas Vespel is stated as having no observable Tg by some. For instance the Tg of Torlon 4301 is 280C, but is rated up to 260C. Will have to do some more research on these.
  14. You could always split the part into two halves along the z axis and print it that way. Would still work as a top, and you wouldn't have to worry about supports and brim. (provided you're getting good first layer bonding to begin with). I think someone said Netfab lets you slice a part. Or you could model in your own supports and/or brim. I think Meshmixer can help here. Or you can use "cut off bottom" in Cura to give the base of the top (that's confusing) a larger foot print. You could then file/sand the flat bottom into the desirable shape (presumably a point). If you're worried about losing height, you can scale in the Z direction in Cura, just unlock the scale proportions so that it is only scaling in the Z axis. that;s all I can think of off the top of my head, good luck
  15. I assume you're talking about welding PLA together. I can't speak to that, but I do have a nice trick for welding ABS together. Get a couple of empty bottles of finger nail polish from the misses. You know, the ones with the brushes built on to the lids. Chop up some small ABS pieces from a scrap of filament. Add to bottle Add Acetone to bottle... enough to completely dissolve pieces. You want the consistency to be on the thin side, think fresh motor oil (5W30)...maybe a little thinner. I have one bottle made up for each color. When storing for periods of time, I wrap a piece of electrical tap around the cap/bottle seam. Add acetone from time to time to thin mixture up. To use, you simply brush on to both surfaces of the parts you want to weld. It's basically like gluing both sides together, with a glue that dissolves the 2 mating surfaces, and dries as a single part. Let dry for a couple of hours. Anyways, that's my little tip of the day.
  16. 270 c? Are you sure? I can't get either of my machines to go past 260, but then again, I haven't installed the 4.09 firmware yet, still on 4.07
  17. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery?
  18. I don't know how many of you guys have a Shop Vac brand vacuum, but the darn locking tabs on the sides suck! I'll go to pick up the shop vac, and the lid will separate from the tub 9 times out of 10! Problem solved! Extended locking tabs, and a revised detent so you get that "snap" feel. Just gotta print them in gray now
  19. That looks like a great product. Wrote them an email trying to find the nearest distributor. Will be looking into getting one of these!
  20. dunno... Had a print turn out like that before because I accidentally hit ABS when changing out PLA material. In other words, it printed the PLA project at 260. Really screwed things up, oozing and stringing everywhere, under extrusion because the filament was just being pushed into a puddle of liquid plastic in the extruder, etc... I'm sure one of the big dogs will chime in with some useful info
  21. .2mm wall thickness (or layer height)? I think you're supposed to use wall thickness in multiples of .4mm (nozzle diameter x #shells), not that it would help the infill problem. One thing I do to some prints that starts vibration bad is to raise the temperature for a minute or 2 and slow it way down. The hot tip seems to soften the layers underneath and flatten out the high spots that are creating the vibrations. Obviously, as the head moves over bumps (several on an infill) it will push the bed down on each bump. 50 bumps in a row, at 50mm/s and it just goes crazy with bumps. If you heat up a bit, and slow it way down for a couple of layers, you can get back on track in future prints. Making sure you have the right wall thickness set in Cura, as well as making sure you don't have any external airflow cooling the front of the part, should help with the front warping. An alternative would be to cover the front of the Ultimaker with something (lexan, cardboard, wood, etc). This should help keep the interior a little more uniform in temp. if you posted a pic of what Cura shows you in Layer View, it might help to better understand what's going on. EDIT: I had no idea the incorrect shell size would also affect infill as gr5 states below. I learned something today
  22. For a quick fix, I went into the settings on the menu of the UM2, and lowered the Z steeper motor current to 900 mAh. This has been working for me for a month now. Simon was awesome enough to send a new board, which I'm confident will permanently solve the issue, but I'm waiting on some micro heat sinks I ordered to install on the motor controllers before I reinstall the replacement board.
  23. I'm familiar with SolidWorks. If you can get the assembly to me, I'll take a quick look at it and send it back ready to print in the correct orientations, etc...
  24. I posted an image of a cell phone cover on page one using the ABS film. It's not dirty at all. It's smooth as glass. All my ABS prints look like this. I'm wondering how one person has bad results with acetone, while other people have awesome results. would be nice for people to post results of what they've tried that way we as a community can combine ideas to come up with the ultimate answer.
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