solid-print-3d

this hairspray works good too, but it's not recommended for large flat objects that will want to warp. I spray it onto a paper towel, let it puddle a little on the paper towel, and wipe the glass down like I'm cleaning it with windex. This Hairspray can be purchased at General Dollar stores in the States. printing IC3D ABS , 245 C, 90mm/s using the hairspray, bed 90 C I might upload a test to see just how fast it will put down the first layer and still stick. This is for a large project, and I have to print 20 of these. They take 3.5 hours each, but making the first layer start off at 80+mm/s I am able to cut it to just under 2 each, saving me 30 hours! So you see, this purple hairspray I keep recommending really works miracles. I have tried it on larger, bulky pieces but I did have some warping. So I use this method for detailed pieces becasue there is no film to remove when I pull the print. The Detailed pieces come off nice and clean. I use the acetone method for large warp-prone pieces. great for those printing small peices that are concerned about acetone vapors. Keep in mind, I have about 6 or 7 cans of hairspray around here (5 girls in the house) but THIS brand is the only one that performs like this. Thinking about contacting Aqua Net and rebranding some of their cans to read "Super 3d printing adhesive".

Ive got a couple of samples in my hands right now of the chess pieces. I would say the plastic is very durable. It doesn't scratch with my fingernail, is very firm, with a hint of flexibility as the parts get thinner. I will see how it does when placing in boiling water. It basically reminds me of cured fiberglass resin (depending on your hardener ratio). I'd say a little on the softer side of fiberglass resin, not glass hard, but very hard yet slightly flexible. There is no flex whatsoever at the base where it is thickest. I know this is not scientific, but at least you may get a sense of the clear resin the sample is printed in.

DO NOT use nail polish remover! I was just making an analogy as to the health effects, and woman using nail polish remover. In the states, they sell it in 1 qt. sizes, and 1 gallon sizes in any hardware store. You can prep about 190 small prints with 1 qt. (about 1 teaspoon per prep) I've used it for 15+ years and I don't, and I don't , and I don't have any lasting side iffectcts Seriously, if you're concerned with acetone vapors being harmful, don't use it, or set a fan up in the room to dilute the vapors quickly. In small amounts and done right, you should not be breathing in concentrated vapors. You will probably smell a slight odor, but again, as long as your head is not inside the print chamber, you'll be fine. Hairspray and Glue sticks DO work, but if you have that print that just keep warping and/or popping free from the bed, acetone is the best solution many users have found. MSDS http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9927062

Cura is plenty fast for me on a 4.8Ghz i7 @UltiArjan - what scanner did you end up going with?

I know you guys have already seen this, but maybe someone hasn't. I watch it every now and then for a good laugh

please change this thread to "Post your Cell Phone preferences" just teasing you guys

you gotta post this magic 110+ hour print.

Well, since other people are chiming in with their complaints, I suppose I'll list some of my own. -The search is useless. Glad to see you're fixing that. -You have to click on the arrows to scroll through images, instead of being able to just view one of the thumbnails by clicking it. -Print-ability user rating? I received a 3 star rating for a model ( a model I printed 3 times absolutely perfectly). That's fine, but I don't get any comments on WHY they rated it a 3. it might be a simple fix for people who aren't running calibrated machines, or using an incorrect printer setting in Cura. It just says "rated a 3 by one user". Can't even see who the user was. -The server is ridiculously slow in the states. Combined with the terrible search, it could take me 15 minutes to find something due to slow speeds and surfing page after page. -Redundant results. Often times, when I go to page 2, some of the models from page one are still there, on to page 3.... half the models from page 2 are there. -Search box disappears. Very, very annoying. -only 9 search results per page. This makes users scroll through many pages unnecessarily -user name at the top right is only 2 letters long on my browsers, looks like this "so.." -email alerts need work. Too many steps to read a simple message. -I can usually expect an error message from the server at least once or twice while browsing youmagine Other than that, the site is fine

That's a bit like telling the doctor "I have this cough" what could it be. The doctor's going to need to know a lot more info before just giving you a diagnosis.

I might have misquoted him. They sent me the new chess piece they have with the DNA helix in it. Might be the new chess piece uses less material? Either way, it's still not bad. It's not for bulk work, so you're not going through a bottle a day. Besides, there are places you can buy photo curing resins for cheaper.

I talked to the salesman, Jon Bryant, on the phone. He tells me the chess piece took 1 hour to print, and costs $1.45 in resin to print it. That's actually faster than the Ultimaker at that resolution, but more expensive too. It's pretty reasonable all the way around. I'm sold, and I think it will make a nice addition to the UM2's.

for what it's worth, I don't even use any grease, or thermal compound on my older UM2. Haven't had any problems with it. I can see if it were subjected to the elements, then galvanic corrosion may be accelerated, but in a temperature controlled environment, I haven't had any problems. It might be, in part, due to the fact that I disassemble the head once every 2 weeks or so.

not sure I understand what you're trying to accomplish. It looks like you have some first layer issues going on with your print, from the picture you posted. Are you aware that all those lines are supposed to be touching?

I'd love to try some diamond age, but Printbl is always sold out of the stuff here in the states.

You make it seam like you'd be huffing large quantities of acetone out of a bag While it's true that some may be affected by acetone fumes, fumes are not a problem. If they are, you are using too much acetone. Millions of woman everyday use acetone to remove finger nail polish. They end up outliving men. Pretty sure acetone's not going to kill you. In my experience, glue sticks don't come close to what the ABS film can provide.

Once and for all, a quick and easy method for getting your ABS to stick. Over time, I have developed this method, and it works 100% of the time. It has zero waste, and is the most cost effective way I have found to apply a thin film of ABS to the glass. What you are about to see may be disturbing to some viewers. Viewer discretion is advised. First Print a Hockey puck-like block in ABS using any method you can to get the ABS to stick at least half way decent. Or you can use a failed print that has a flat surface. You'll also need a can of Acetone. For the sake of explaining the next step, I'm using a teaspoon. This is about how much acetone you'll want to put on the plate. I do not recommend actually using a teaspoon, but you should get a rough idea of the amount I'm using here. You can decide what you'd like to use on your own. I use the lid for the acetone can... Apply some acetone to the plate... just pour it on slowly. Grab your hockey puck and play a little air hockey with yourself. The puck will float on the thin layer of acetone, and will glide around smoothly. Work the puck into circles or back and forth motions, whatever you feel comfortable with. Continue to move the puck around in the general area of the print. This is the important part! When the puck starts to feel like its slowing down, slide the puck away from the print area. Do not try to work the puck once the acetone begins to evaporate. If you missed a spot, simply put another drop of Acetone on the missed spot and touch up that spot. When you are done (~10 seconds total time should have elapsed) it should look like this It does NOT have to look pretty! The first layer will melt into the "slurry". After you've tried this a couple of times, you'll be able to prep a bed for the next ABS print in under 15 seconds, and there's no mess, and no wasted acetone. No dirty tools, no special jars, no prep work, etc... You cannot do this with the bed HOT. You can do this with the bed warm. The puck lasts a very long time. The acetone lasts a very long time. You do not have to remove the glass. I just pulled the glass for photographic purposes. Since the first layer melts into the film, you'll still get the glass finish every time. You can also do some interesting effects, such as creating marbled look by using a black puck with a white print. If you need an .stl of the puck I've used, send me a PM and I'll shoot one your way. I'm using a 40mm puck here. I've tried a couple different designs, but this one works well, so I just run with it P.S. It should be noted that that is a pretty ugly example I've posted, but you can imagine holding an iphone, keeping the glass from moving, and moving the puck around is a tad difficult.

I came across some good advice the other day for getting better at anything (including printing) practice, practice,practice,practice,practice,practice,practice,practice,practice,practice After all the practice I've put in... I'd have to say it's not bad advice

well, to comment on your heading "are SLA printers any good" I ordered a sample from Form1+ labs. The precision and level of detail is amazing. I don't know if these guys hand pick these samples, or print them on something else, but if the Form 1+ prints like this, then I'll be adding one to my 3D printer collection for sure.

Sometimes we deliver prints to customers. One day, we left a customers PLA print in the car for about 20 minutes. When we got back to the car, the print had permanently warped. From that day on, I won't go near PLA for prints that require even the slightest amount of heat tolerance. That includes heat buildup form moving pieces. ABS has worked well for me, but like Amedee said, not all ABS is created equal. So far I find that the cheap Chinese JET brand (from amazon or 3dsupplyworld) holds up to heat pretty good. I have to print it full blown 260, no fans. Other ABS brands I've tried I can get away with 235 to 250.

a 96 hour print?! My hat's off to you man

I think the firmware already adjusts the filament flow, so I'm not sure you'd need to adjust flow? Here's a pic of a 1:87 traffic barrel for a model railroad guy. I told him up front that I was not going to be able to print it. Unfortunately, I made myself look like an ass, becasue it printed pretty good The little light up top is 2mm in diameter, that's only 5x the nozzle width, so I have no idea how it was able to successfully print this. One thing I did was to find the lowest possible print temp, and line a bunch of them up in a row so that the left and right cooling fans were always hovering over one of the barrels. Moral of the story... who freaking knows

You can also try opening the native files up in a cad program and arrange the parts there. Then save out as 1 .stl file. When you open it in Cura, it will be multiple parts, but Cura recognizes them all as being 1 part so it will print all parts at the same time. Not all people post the native files ( step , Igs , sldpt , .ipt, etc ) so it won't always be an option.

YES! Please start selling a bag of 5-10 teflon insulators at a reasonable price Ultimaker!

not sure.... I have used all manner of bonding agents, but the slurry has worked best for me. Maybe search around for what people in Denmark are using for a bonding agent. You guys might have a killer glue over there that works just right....who knows. The acetone smell isn't bad, my daughters work on their nails, and that smells 10x worse. I don't use that much acetone when I prep my bed. I pour a teaspoon of acetone on the bed and I rub a hockey puck-like block on the glass that is printed in abs. The acetone dissolves just enough of the puck to create a film on the glass. Not much acetone is used, and it evaporates quickly. If you're going to be printing in ABS a lot, it's worth trying, at least once.

That's definitely a possibility. I've had prints where I had fans come on 100% becasue I had a tweak at Z from another project I forgot to delete in Cura. Anyways, layer 3 rolls around, Fans come screaming on at 100% and the part buckles like crazy and pops free. If you use a good brim with a 30 line count, and a nice ABS slurry bonding agent, you can play around with dropping the bed temp in cura so you don't have so much radiant heat in the print. Drop it after layer 5-10, depending on your layer thickness. How much you can drop will depend on your ABS slurry skills I tend to drop my ABS temps gradually, so I would have 3 tweak at Z settings, dropping a couple of degrees each time. Have you played around with minimum extrusion temps? You might be printing hotter than you need to? Keep playing around with settings, and take notes when you get it dialed in.