calimero

Well looks like it was fixed at last !

Any Youmagine dev around to take a look at this ?

I've uploaded the relevant files on YouMagine: Microspringer RC Tug boat

Hi, I've just published my first design on Youmagine (Yay!) and wanted to use the embed code to link to it from my little web site. Here's the embed code given by Youmagine: But Chrome, Firefox won't embed anything. Chrome's console gives me the following reason: Refused to display 'https://www.youmagine.com/designs/7312/embed' in a frame because it set 'X-Frame-Options' to 'SAMEORIGIN'. The server indeed send that header: < HTTP/1.1 200 OK< Server: Cowboy< Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2015 13:28:35 GMT< Connection: keep-alive< Strict-Transport-Security: max-age=31536000< X-Frame-Options: SAMEORIGIN< X-Xss-Protection: 1; mode=block< X-Content-Type-Options: nosniff< X-Ua-Compatible: chrome=1< Etag: "3da7d8cea888a91a2f2c864c700368f2"< Last-Modified: Fri, 24 Apr 2015 13:03:24 GMT< Access-Control-Allow-Origin: *< Access-Control-Request-Method: *< Content-Type: text/html; charset=utf-8 From what I understand SAMEORIGIN means the browser should render the iframe only if called from the same domain (ie: youmagine.com) which is quite the opposite of what we want ?! Could anyone look into it ? Calimero

I've come to think that it might indeed be a simple connection issue. I've wiggled the cable on the bed end and have been able to move the bed up/down multiple times and run a 1-hour print. The brief connection issue causes the printer to go into error mode. Maybe that brutal change somehow interrupts the code running the stepper motors for a few cycles hence what sounds like a missed step ? Anyway I'll try check the cable tonight a bit more carefully. Good to have the build manual. Thanks.

Hi Tonight after a few weeks without any printing I switched from PLA back to ABS. I then heated up the bed and initiated a new print. Once the bed and nozzle were at the right temp, the bed was raised to start printing. But that's when things went wrong. As the bed was moving up it sounded like a missed step and I was instantly graced with a "Temp sensor bed" error. I power cycled the printer and the print sensor seems to work and give credible figures. Here's a video of the bed being raised and lowered. At 00:35 the weird sound can be heard (and again the printer goes in error mode). Surprisingly I've been able to lower/raise the bed a few times without problems. But most attempts (usually raising) fail with that weird noise. Note: buzzing at 00:15 is unrelated to the printer . I just got a text on my smartphone... Cables going to the bed seem fine and are out of the way when bed is travelling up or down. Any idea where to look ? Thanks

Hi folks ! Happy new year by the way ! I managed to launch both my latest RC boats this past Sunday. And one of them of course was this Microspringer. Microspringer on the pond Microspringer on the pond Here's a short video of the thing weezing around (and even doing some push work !).

Build log 2014-12-30 : Handrails, paint & fenders The first Microspringer is now almost complete. Truckable tug - Inspiration for the color scheme Shabby paint job - TX in the background for scale Fenders - 3mm rubber cord all round - Tyre inner tube on push-knees Handrails - 1.00 and 1.50mm brass wire Rudder was enlarged giving a little bit better maneuverability (trials in the bathtub !). Just have to adjust a few things (paint the exhaust, add a couple stickers or lettering ...).

Right now I'm into RC model boats but I'm ogling at drones mostly for aerial photography. But that thing looks sweet ! And the video really gives a "bird-like feel". Good job, very tempting !

Build log 2014-12-17 : Locking tabs Locking tabs - Bow end first Locking tabs - Locks at the stern Tabs installed - Tabs acetone-welded in place Wheelhouse secured - Snaps right in place Those tabs work surprisingly well (first attempt!) and positively lock the main hatch in place while still keeping everything easily (no tools) removable to change the battery. Push knees were also "welded" in place. I've printed an exhaust pipe. I'm still unsure whether I'll install the bulwark or not. Time for MOAR SANDING. Then maybe LED navigation lights (powering them from a CR2032 battery although 3V might be a little on the low side for white LEDs ...) and brass railings for the push knees and the wheelhouse. Then a lot of prep work before painting !

Build log 2014-12-13 : Deck and wheelhouse Wheelhouse was printed. Maybe I'll add working navigation lights. Depends on the overall weight. Lots of work to do on the wheelhouse (sanding ...). Basic wheelhouse - Deck with bollards - Bollards are strenghened with 1mm piano wire Deck (underside) - Piano wire will get a dab of methyl-methacrylate glue Simple cross bollards were printed. They were drilled to get some extra 1mm piano wire through. Small pieces of ABS were "acetone-welded" under the deck where the bollards go. Piano wire protrudes under the deck and will get a bit of metyl-methacrylate glue.

Hi, Just a few updates (including stuff I forgot to post here). Build log 2014-12-07 : Improved hull, RC equipment Hull went through an aggressive diet. Walls and bottom were thinned. All in all approximately 30% shaved off. Minor issues (clearance for the motor, ...) were fixed. Printing hull Rev.30 took a little under ten hours (overnight, as usual). Print included an integral servo mount (ie: printed right with/within the hull) but it was too skinny and broke off too easily. I then decided to print another strong servo mount and "acetone-welded" it in place. Hull and deck (Rev.31) - 3D model of what was printed Superstructure design - More design required; getting closer Side view - Redesigned/strong motor mount 3D printed hull with RC equipment - Tests in bathtub were promising Underside - 3D printed push knees and rudder arm Deck and push knees - Mock installation RC components are installed (with hook & loop / Velcro). Servo mount is a good fit. RX, ESC, motor and ESC all work great. Even on a single LiPo cell motor seems a little fast but ESC allows smooth starts and has linear throttle response. Low pitch of the prop also helps a lot. Motor was soldered to ESC to save weight and limit clutter. Servo plug on ESC was replaced with a 1.25mm Molex Picoblade one, to fit on the RX. Rudder will be redesigned to get a little more surface (towards the propeller) although steering is already very decent. Weight so far (including all propulsion, RC components, battery, push kees, deck, beam ...) is 149g (5.25oz). Previous hull (barebone) was 126g !

Hi guys and girls Technically this isn't my latest print (there's on page 75. After a few problems with my UM2 (clocked nozzle, then I broke the temp sensor when trying to take the hot end off ...), I'm now printing ABS with decent results. Still some retraction/curling now and then but I tend to adjust my models and plan some extra material I can sand down. Well here's what the wheelhouse on my model tug looks like (only lousy cellphone pics, boats are at my parents' and I hadn't my DSLR/tripod with me ...) : The bigger tug is the "Odin". Wheelhouse was designed in SketchUp and printed in ABS. There are actually four parts: the wheelhouse itself, two doors (with hinges) and the roof. Handrails on the roof are brass though. ABS parts were brushed with acetone, then sanded and primed, sanded again, primed again, sanded again and finally painted. The wheelhouse on the small tug is also 3D printed but the print was actually pretty bad (formfutura abs) and had to be rushed for an upcoming event. New wheelhouse is already printed and now has to be assembled. Just as I was painting the wheelhouse for the Odin, my phone rang: I got an email from a fellow RC boat enthusiast who had the same problem as me: he was working on the same kit and the wheelhouse had gone missing. He had come across my web site where all of this is documented and asked whether I could give him my STL files so that he could have a new wheelhouse printed for his model. Nice timing ! At least I knew my model was good and fit !

Nice ! Way quicker than my 12hr print ! We also have one of these DIY vacuum-forming rigs lying around at my RC club's workshop. Not sure it's still in working condition though. I've already been on your website a few times, looking at your barge kit. A little too small for a standard springer. We also have CNC cutting machines and I'm just done cutting the main parts for a 1200x40mm barge for my springer (out of 4.5mm plywood). But once my Microspringer is up & running (190x85mm), your 1:50 barge might be a nice match ! And your Stan Tug 1606 1:50 looks sweet.

I took the hull to the pond yesterday and towed it with my "fullsize" Springer tug: Looks nice but way too HEAVY. I'm going to make the hull thinner. And I'm waiting for RC components (receiver, speed controller) ...

Hi I've already 3D printer parts for my other boats but now I've decided to build a fully 3D printed tug boat. "Springer tugs" are a class of cheap easy-to-build push boats based on North American "truckable tugs". Those real tugs are cheap, compact (in order to fit on a truck to haul from job to job). A "Springer tug" is 455mm long and 200mm wide. Propeller and running gear are somewhat restricted to get close performances. Above deck you can build whatever superstructure you want and you end up with some crazy funny stuff. There are two types of competition with those simple boats: water polo and "catch me if you can". For wasserpolo, tugs are equipped with two "arms" to be able to grab/direct a floating ball into the opponent's goal. That's what it looks like: Anyway, really simple boats yet very fun to run. And also great recovery boat when speed boats blow over or batteries die in the middle of the pond. My springer has already tens of recoveries (other boats, football, kid's toys... you name it) under her belt. I decided to 3D print a smaller version ('cause 455x200mm won't fit in an UM2). And small is beautiful ! General view - General view Hull interior view - With Hextronix 1700kv BL motor 3D model Side view Side view (X-Ray) Top view 12 hours of printing later : Took me over an hour to remove Cura'support structures and adjust a few things. Aside from a few "bugs"/things I overlooked that thing is way too heavy (and ABS is heavier than water which doesn't help). Hull was brushed with acetone to melt the surface and make it watertight. Things will be documented on my Microspringer page but I'll keep you posted.

Be extremely careful when you try to pull the sensor out of the nozzle block ! I only managed to snap the wires off and am now with a temp sensor stuck in the nozzle assembly. And no news whatsoever from Ultimaker's Support on my ticket. My UM2 is now essentially a useless box sitting in my living room. Yay !

Well ... I put the heater back in, heated things up to 100°. Turned the power off and then tried to wiggle the sensor out. And ... now my sensor is stuck in the nozzle and wires just broke off. Didn't take too much pull. Hooray ! I just added that little new development to the support ticket I opened a week ago (I wanted a spare nozzle, looks like it's now more of a replacement nozzle !).

I'm in the same spot as s.partridge was. First: illuminarti and gr5 thanks for the huge amount of time you spend helping people. Ultimaker's support has been non-existent. Anyway I want to take the nozzle off the printer. I've already unscrewed the long allen screw and pulled out the heating cartridge or the sensor (can't tell which is which). From what you said gr5 I assume I just have to pull a little harder on the unit still in the nozzle ? It seems my relatively gentle pulling already pushed insulation back. Not sure I want to rip that thing off ! When I'll put things back together should I - or can I - put some high temp grease on the sensor and heating element ? I have some copper grease (specs say up to 1200°C). Or should parts be assembled "dry" ? I'm also surprised (well disappointed) that the sensor and heating element come with long cables and hence cannot easily be disconnected near the print head. If I were to damage either cable I assume I'd have to take whole cable out of the back of the printer ... Maybe, just maybe support will answer my ticket and tell me how to get a replacement nozzle and other spare parts (with all the clogging lately, my bowden tube has some not-so-nice scratches). Or maybe not.

The bra/shell-holder (are these 12ga shells ?) looks good. Buckle on the left shoulder strap looks really good. 3DP can be both amazing and frustrating in the same print. +1 on meshmixer. I've only used it a couple of times but it works great. I print mostly "structural" stuff, not complex models (ie: concave, convex surfaces, curves that are a pain to finish/clean up) so I can add a lot of support struts almost wherever I want. But on a model like this meshmixer should be able to add just a few supports as others have suggested.

Well I still have a lot of curling, more than I remember when I first got the printer. I'll try a few more passes of "AtomicBob unclogging" but it looks like I'll have to take the hot end off the printer and "burn" out any partial clog. Or worst case scenario try and get a replacement unit from UM. How can I disconnected the nozzle ? Last time I disassembled the printing head I let the hot end just dangle. Is it connected somewhat higher in the mesh among other cables ?

Good to know. I ordered two rolls of ABS when I ordered my Ultimaker on January 31st but they are still nowhere to be found. I got some ABS from Form Futura in the mean time. I have yet to test it.

Well nothing as awesome as those T800 heads (because my modeling skills just suck so far). More RC boat stuff: just a simple wheelhouse for my springer towboat. The real deal looks like this, super easy to model: Truckable tug My model in SketchUp (still haven't tried Autodesk Fusion 360!): Wheelhouse 3D model Wheelhouse 3D model First print failed due to a clogged nozzle. And I'm still not in the clear ... For the second print attempt I decided to try meshmixer's support generator instead of Cura (Cura's scaffolding works quite great but is also heavy handed) Meshmixer-generated support My nozzle is probably still partially clogged or has some left over gunk because filament tends to curl like crazy. Some of the support failed to print yet the support that managed to get printed did the job and just snapped off clean. Quite impressed with meshmixer (though I still struggle with its UI). Anyway, that's what I got after 23 hours (wheelhouse, door, bridge) + 6 hours (roof, navlight brackets). Might have been able to print everything at once but I still had some work to do on the roof. Roof just fits snugly in the wheelhouse. Won't have to glue it in place so that I can reach the inside of the wheelhouse for "maintenance" Front view Working hinges Rear view All the parts Now I need to clean up the nozzle real good to get the printer working 100% before I move to ABS ...

Same here with two ABS rolls. Ordered (with the printer) on Jan 31rd and still no news. UM's shop lists ABS rolls as "backordered until end of April". April 2015 I assume ? Maybe Ultimaker should take some of the products off their site if they're unable to actually supply them ? I understand they'd rather focus on shipping out printers. I got some rolls from Form Futura. If they're any good I'll probably stick with them.

Will try that some day. So far I don't have a huge volume of parts to print so I can start over from scratch. I also updated a few things in the model (the lower half of the print let me test a few things). What you describe is what I had when the printer was new. Now, after unclogging it tends to curl much more. I'll try again with my bronze brush. And maybe some more heat/cool/pull. There are two wires coming from the nozzle assembly. I assume one is power the other is the temp sensor ? How do I disconnect them ? Are connectors higher in the mesh ? I didn't see anything after I had unscrewed the nozzle assembly from the frame. France indeed. I'm googling needles. I've found some acupuncture 0.3mm needles.