profepaco

atomic method? you are scaring me... I think I am selling my laywood on ebay.... :???:

and do you have problems to clean the nozzle?

friends... I have some laywood waiting for the first try. what's wrong with it? on the pictures I see a more realistic wood look with laywood...

Yes, previous question about wear produced by the filament is not answered. A heavy filament with metal inside... bowden, noozle... are designed to cope with that abrasion? :-|

do you mean that after installing the new firmware your printer is performing worse? because I have to update it...

and increase layer time... there is an option in Cura... and decrease print speed. There is a plugin (teakatz) installed by default in your Cura where you can specify different settings when your print reaches a hight. For example, for 10.2 mm and more: print speed 30%, new temp,....

@Chrisp do you have the ling to the UM2 feet? thanks

Nice! Any link?

Good design. Are they useful for the UM2?

I hope the surface problem in cura 14.03 is solved :???:

Yes, but if I push manually the filament before the prints starts I have never issues... if I do not do it... problems...

yes, but now the look is much better. And this is the way to understand how setting works.

Hi: Are these pulleys only useful of UM original? Doe UM2 suffer the same problem?

@abstract. let me tell you how to avoid underextrusion at the beginning of one printing. I select the file to print. Then, I am using Robert's feeder, I open the feeder and I push the filament. Then you realize that the filament it is really retracted. You can push it about 2 cm without any force.... That's the problem. It seems that when a previous print finish the filament is retracted too much... really too much. Since I am doing that the under extrusion ends doing the skirt... so no problems any more.

please, heat a bit one part of the ring and tell us whether the rest of the ring gets hot. Thanks in advance!!!!

I would like to see a picture of that on a UM2!

No. Because when I decrease the temp it needs only about 5-10 minutes to finish. And,as you know, the temp decreases very slowly. BTW, 20C here is Spain is heat bed = off :cool:

Use your old phone as a IP WEBCAM. Do not expend more money on a IP webcam. Your phone do the same. This is my printer. The support for the mobile phone is here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:46747 There some free software for converting your phone in a Webcam. I am using this one: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pas.webcam You need to configure your router to see the video from outside your network. You have to forward the port that the phone is employing.

I lubricate with grease some parts of Robert's design, to help the mechanism of pressure adjust using the screw... maybe this can help.

so a lot of bronze means heat conductivity.... I hope...

I am still trying different settings... in my case best results seem to be obtained when print speed is 20 mm/s (as yours) helps and of course a good bed levelling. However, I am using 235 C for the first layer ( I change it for the second layer with twekatZ). I think the most fluid filament helps to obtain better surface. My bed temperature is 65, fist layer, 46 for second... and close to the end of printing I reduce it to 20C to cool the bed before prints end. rest of parameters initial layer 0.2, rest of layers 0.15

@UltiMagic. You do not need to cycle the temperature. You have to evaporate the rests of oil in the noozle...and... in the bowden! So You have to print something and I guess that high temp increases the evaporation of oil. I was playing with temp. Adding a washer is a very good idea. Which size did you use? The alternative to adding a washer is MK7 or MK8 drive gears. A picture of Mk7 follows: But it costs about 7 euros. If you part is breaking... it is because it is made of ABS? I begin to think that PLA is better... better adhesion between layers. Brilliant idea to make a hole for oiling!!

I am wondering if this material will let heat flows through... it is what I am looking for... http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5730-a-part-that-transmits-heat/

I had no portables with oil in the feeder. Anyway, it is a zone where you can clean it with some chemicals with no danger. The only thing, after printing hours and hours with oil, is that when you shift to regular PLA it takes some time to performs well again the printing. It seems that oil has no problem with filaflex and similar. But when you shifts to regular PLA the rests of oil are not good for the performance. In such a case, just print a piece you do not need, to leave time to clear the nozzle. And use very high temperature for short periods.... 230....260...230...260... it worked for me.

This is how I am oiling the filament. Sorry for crap pictures. You put oil on the puff cleaner, and it will deposit the oil on the filament. It works for at least two hours at 50 mm/s, perhaps more speed.