profepaco

yes, the problem is that you can see the lines of printing. For that reason I think concentric filling would produce better results. But I cannot use slic3r at the moment. Crashing with the bed! Bottom layer speed: 30 mm/s Bed temperature: 46 C Infill overlap = 15% head temperature = 220 (although I have tried many values here) A picture of the bottom (first) layer from visible side: A picture after some layers printing (from printing surface, after aborting): Thanks for helping.

First attempt with slic3r almost destroys my UM2. The head was hitting the glass... before printing I saw a message saying that the file to print will override machine settings.... the bed was very high before printing :shock:

So I tried with 0.1 first layer, different temperatures, different flow rates and the surface has improved in some cases, but the problems is still there. I think that I should move to slic3r. There is an option for top / bottom layer fill pattern: "concentric". More later...

i'll try it tomorrow, thanks...

is the same question I am asking here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5646-top-and-bottom-layers/

I am printing a robot wheel and everything is ok except bottom and top layers. Please have a look: I have a one week old UM2. I have tried different settings. I have increased temperature to 230 (this is PLA from faderdashery and I have the same problem for whatever colour from them or with PLA for UM). I have increased flow rate to 115%. I have reduced the printing speed, I have increased the printing speed. Even I have increased the printing speed of the first layer... just to try... the result is very, very similar in all the cases. Any idea to obtain a more uniform surface? Thanks in advance.

I used sewing machine oil. A drop or two on my fingers and then apply it to the filament. When you insert the filament in the bowden you see that the friction is over.

So this afternoon I bought Filaflex... I was trying printing... no success...but I tried: OILING. This is the keyword. After oiling the filament.... you feel that there is no almost friction in the bowden. Results are pretty good. I am satisfied. But some questions. Should I oil only the first part of the filament. Or should I oil all the filament? What happens with the oil? does it evaporate in the extruder? This is not dangerous?

Very nice!!!.. I was wondering how to polish the surface of PLA. But your solution seems too risky! What about painting PLA? only metal based paint is iseful or whatevar paint can be used?

I think I am going to try it... in youtube videos seems far better... who knows... can you share your settings? Thanks

BTW, what about Filaflex.... it seems a very good product. Anybody is using it?

that's a good idea! At ebay you can find them too. But it seems at a minimum of 10 units... group buy? :cool:

I am very satisfied... and probably you will... just be patient.

Abstract, upgrade the feeder: you should read this: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4393-ultimaker2-feeder-system-improvements-and-ideas/

So, As I said, Plastic2Print Flexible Polyester, is flexible but not elastic. You cannot increase the size of a ring. Can people recommend me one flex material with this property after printed (elasticity)? Thanks in advance.

6 weeks in my case. I received it the 2nd of May

No. I printed it at 50 mm/s... and I saw some under extrusion. I want to try increasing flow rate and I will follow your advices.

My experience with Plastic2Print Flexible Polyester Well, not very good. Even with Robert feeder I have problems. The material is flexible, but not elastic. It is difficult to explain. Just print a ring. You can deform the ring very easily, but you cannot expand it, you cannot make it bigger. The filament produces a tie/spiral in robert's feeder. I do not know what to do!!

Ok...so...for newbies...what can we do? I do not know what Marlin is... is this easy to enable the quick start?

I have the same problem. If switch the printer off the calibration is forgotten. Each time I switch the printer on I have to calibrate the bed. I do not think is a problem with that position switch, but I will have a look.

Thanks Robert. BTW, after printing your design I see it is very elaborated. Congratulations.

So this is the first time I publish a picture in this forum. It seems too large... Ok. So I have just finished and used the new feeder. I had two problems at the beginning. 1.- Massive under extrusion. I do not why. Probably I did not push the filament hard enough to the nozzle. 2.- After cutting a piece of the bowden tube, following the instructions, now the bowden tube tends to leave the feeder. It is difficult to have it attached to the feeder. Is this a possible problem? Now it seems to print ok, after removing the filament and place it again. Three questions. Please help me: 1.- How much pressure to the filament in the feeder. Just the minimum? a bit more screwing a bit the screw to control the pressure? 2.- As you can see in the picture, I am using the additional part top print flexpla and similar. Is it a problem to leave it there when printing regular PLA? 3.- Should I change the pressure in the feeder when printing flexpla or similar? Thanks in advance.

I have just realized that when Cura increments the percentage of fan speed when leaving the bottom layer the fans does not respond. Let me explain it better. Fans 5%. Fans stopped. Fans 10%. Stopped. Fans 35% the fans work. However, if I blow on the fans, they begin to work if the speed is, i. e., 10%. So the problem are the fans, that they cannot begin to rotate if the percentage of speed is too low. Therefore, there is not incremental fan speed until about 30%, unless you blow on the fans to help them to rotate. I think there are two solutions: 1.- Better fans. Can be find better fans with less resistance to rotation? 2.- Cura sends a 50% command to the fans to begin the rotation and then reduce the speed to the required one, for example, 10%.

Just to be sure... in both cases, the head has to be hot enough?

Just beginning to print the new feeder!