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designsoul

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Everything posted by designsoul

  1. Hi,I am a product designer and have upgraded my 3D printer range, with too little space in my studio for four printers I am selling my Ultimaker Original. With a record of 1,500-2,000 print hours it is still in good operating condition and has a working dual extruder. About a year ago there was a problem with one of the motors skipping but it was easily repaired by adjusting the supply voltage on the motor driver's potmeter. Supplied with the 3D printer are the power and USB cable, an SD-card+controller, dual extruder kit installed, one roll of PLA filament, 10 spare noz
  2. I recommend a 3d printer pen to seal PLA, however I haven't found one that can work with 3.0 mm filament. You can also heat friction weld PLA with a good multitool. CA glue doesn't work. For improving mechanical bonds on larger parts (I do robot parts) you can drill holes and friction fit simple wooden dowels, this is very strong.
  3. This is now happening with my Ultimaker Original after 3 years of use. I suspect a problem with the pulleys so I will keep you updated.
  4. MEK, methyl ethyl ketone, is another solvent for PLA. Has anyone tried to use that for part smoothening?
  5. Cura 2.3 works great, and dual extrusion works after installing new firmware and the Arduino drivers. However I can't seem to alter the machine settings to enable a default offset for the dual extruder. So I am adjusting this feature manually. More importantly, there are long pauses (up to 10 minutes!) when changing between print heads. And at the start of some layers, there is an almost duplicate G0 code, which may or may not have to do with it. Does anyone know what to do with this?
  6. Well there is Cx5 sculptable filament by Adam Beane. And there is instamorph (PCL) filament by eSun: http://www.esun3d.net/Products/eMorph That melts at 80-110C.
  7. Een vrij korte afstand, zo'n 0.10mm, werkt in mijn bevinding het beste. Er is nu ook een tool op Kickstarter waarmee je het printbed exact kan calibreren:
  8. Well there is Cx5 sculptable filament by Adam Beane. And there is instamorph (PCL) filament by eSun: http://www.esun3d.net/Products/eMorph That melts at 80-110C.
  9. The webshop 3Dfilamenten.nl has a good range of PLA homebrand filaments for a very affordable price; about 20 EUR / kg. So I am interested in obtaining a range of these filaments. The reviews I read on their site are so far so good, though I am wondering if anyone here has already used these filaments. There can always be minor issues such as many of the EUmakers filaments being too rough to smoothly pass through the Bowden. I hope to hear from you soon, thanks! Ralph
  10. Cura 2.3 works great, however I can't seem to alter the machine settings to enable a default offset for the dual extruder. So I am adjusting this feature manually. More importantly, there are long pauses (up to 10minutes) when changing between print heads. And at the start of some layers, there is an almost duplicate G0 code, which may or may not have to do with it. Does anyone know what to do with this?
  11. Version 1.0

    1,076 downloads

    This pen holder printed very well with lots of detail.
  12. designsoul

    Owl

    Version 1.0

    905 downloads

    The owl was printed with Lay-FOMM 40, which gives it a nice pearlesque finish, so also useful for visual models in case you want to keep the filament rigid.
  13. Version 1.0

    863 downloads

    Finished with Chrome spray paint, this print looks wonderful.
  14. designsoul

    Planter

    Version 1.0

    931 downloads

    Simple and functional planter design. These prints can be made watertight with waterglass.
  15. Version 1.0

    1,597 downloads

    Functional low-cost photogrammetry 3D scanner, entirely built with the Ultimaker, the chassis split into four parts and finished with epoxy resin.
  16. For the ones with an UMO and dual extrusion upgrade, this firmware generator works like a champ: https://bultimaker.bulles.eu Don't forget to also install Arduino drivers from arduino.cc
  17. Hi, For the ones getting a MINTEMP error - it can be due to a loose connector to the TC board. After a while the strains on the cable this connector can break. I fixed this by removing the connector and soldering the wires directly to the board. What you can also do is order a new connector and use crimp sockets to attach it to the wires. The connector you need is a Micro JST XH 2.54mm 3-pin T-1 plug which you can usually find on ebay. I had mine shipped from Hong Kong for a few cents each. Thanks Ralph
  18. Hi, For the ones getting a MINTEMP error - it can be due to a loose connector to the TC board. After a while the strains on the cable this connector can break. I fixed this by removing the connector and soldering the wires directly to the board. What you can also do is order a new connector and use crimp sockets to attach it to the wires. The connector you need is a Micro JST XH 2.54mm 3-pin T-1 plug which you can usually find on ebay. I had mine shipped from Hong Kong for a few cents each. Thanks Ralph
  19. Thanks, I may try that next time. For now I used a tiny drill bit on a dremel to drill bits off of the filament without trying to damage the tube. After about 10 minutes it came out.
  20. Hi, I have a few problems regarding a Bowden tube. The printer is an Ultimaker Original. Firstly, the tube does not stay put. Instead, it is pushed out of its retainer when filament is pushed through. I'm suspecting that the metal element inside the retainer has worn down. Also the Bowden tube is a little scraped at the last two inches or so, so the element does not gain enough traction. I have already cut about half an inch of the tube, which worked for 10 minutes, then the same problem occurred. I am going to try printing a Bowden tube clamp as seen on thingiverse (thing:11864 by owen) and
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