Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About gornnr

  • Birthday 01/01/2015

Personal Information

  • Field of Work
    (Product) design
  • Country
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2
  • On The Web
  1. So, it no longer works like Cura-v15.x where you can enter any given nozzle size. That is a bummer. Ok, so how much should I offset from the Measured Extrusion Width for a given nozzle for Line Width?
  2. So, don't use the drop down and instead ignore that and make multiple profiles? Why have the drop down?
  3. Hello, How can additional sizes of nozzles be added to Cura under the Ultimaker 2+ drop down? I've recently added a 2 to 2+ upgrade and after adding the Ultimaker 2+ printer I've lost the ability to set my nozzles. Thank you, Gorn
  4. As an interesting possible test. I measured the extrusion from extruding into free air (while doing an Atomic Cleaning) and it measured 0.43mm. Thought being, should there be a small clog the extruded diameter will be reduced due to the restriction.
  5. Just noticed that it looks like your walls and infill are not overlapping. So even in the "Good" area it looks like you are underextruding. This ColorFabb material does not list the specific plastic but that its loaded with carbon fibers. I am using a material at work that is PETG + CNT (Carbon Nano Tube) to make the filament ESD Safe. I've found that the filament tends to slip easily even with a good deal of force from the bearing side. Try this, when you see the underextrusion, assist the feeder by pushing the filament into the stepper. If the underextrusion goes away then your issue is mechanical and we can start following this path of correction. If the issue persist then its in a setting such as temp or speed, etc.
  6. You can grab the second file and see for yourself. From left to right the gap increases from each face by 0.05mm, so the first gap is 0.05mm, the next to the right is a gap of 0.1mm, the next is 0.15mm and so on. What you will find is if you set the "Bottom/Top thickness (mm):" setting to say 0.2mm then from the 4th extrusions and all to the right of it, being 0.2mm or greater in gap size, will have properly solid faces. All at 0.15mm or lower will have incorrectly generated solid faces. At 1.0 "Bottom/Top thickness (mm):" the first 19 gaps will not have solid faces, but any at the 20th or further right will as they are at or greater then 1.0mm gap. The bug is if there are two solid faces overlapping at a gap size SMALLER than that set in the "Bottom/Top thickness (mm):" setting. All testing that I've done with this bug is ONLY at 1.0mm layer heights and with faces that are parallel. This bug appears even at an angle.
  7. So, did a "Fix for Cura" by making a modification to the inside of the hinge to make the faces at 45degrees. I then wanted to start testing to see the behavior in how Cura would produce solid faces at given spaces. And the results are interesting. Feel free to Grab this STL with 0.05mm Stepping Initial bottom face will not become solid until the gap is 1.15mm or larger. The next bottom face will not be a solid until 1.25mm. Interesting part, this is with the Bottom/Top Thickness setting at 1.2mm Playing around further, and indeed, changing the B/T Thickness moves where the faces are correctly made solid. So, seems there is some bug in the code that is relating the SPACING between solid faces in the Z-Direction and the B/T Thickness setting.
  8. Ugh, that's not a fix in any sense. I've got a feeder similar to yours for 1.75mm filaments and it correctly detected the face on that. So there has to be a minimum gap size before Cura puts in a solid face.
  9. TL;DR: How far away must overhanging faces be for Cura to detect as a solid face? Modeled up a captive hinge for a home improvement project. When I tossed it into Cura I wanted to check the faces to make sure they would be separate, not just one solid cylinder. What I've found is Cura has decided to put a solid face several layers away from where the face should be. Airgap between each of the faces is 0.2mm and print settings are 0.1mm layers. Previously, on other parts I've designed in supports that have worked well with these settings however the faces where much further apart. STL can be found at this link (TinyUpload.com) If you drop this in Cura (Using 15.01, see next bit for more info on that) you will find on layer 28 should start the face of the inner hinge but it is only doing infil and walls. Then randomly at layer 38 & 39 there is suddenly a solid face, but this is inside the hinge (and not even at the center). Layer 63 & 64 has another face for the center hinge, then 66 through 74 have infill. Layer 74 should be the top of the center hinge. Layer 77 starts with the upper hinge walls and infill, again no face. Note from above: If I open the distance between the captured hinges (tried .5mm vs .2mm airgap) then 15.06.03 will provide similar issue of not detecting faces correctly. At .2mm airgap Cura 15.06.03 would fail to provide a sliced model. PS: New Cura 15.06 (Should have been v16 with such radical UI changes) is missing filament usage and cost estimates. Fonts are way too large and all white/grey color scheme looks poorly done.
  10. I use this material at work: ESD Safe PETG from 3DxTech ESD Safe and holds dimensions really well. Print quality is really close to PLA but survives higher temps and can be used around electronics.
  11. Rule #1 of underextrusion, Clean your Nozzle. Rule #2 of underextrusion, Slow down your speed (or turn up the temp) Just because plastic comes out of the tip doesn't mean you are getting 0.4mm of plastic out of the tip.
  12. With the bowden that I've made and pictured above, the bowden actually fits THROUGH the isolator. The bowden actually goes right down into the extruder. There is no space in the 3mm nozzle end for extra molten PLA as the bowden is in there. In this picture, the bowden is being held in front of the head relative to where it would be inside. You will see the bowden fits right down in the extruder up to the nozzle itself. Also, while looking for pictures of the U2 head I found this http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/3-D-printer-accessory-parts-ultimaker-2-UM2-Nozzle-hot-end-kit-set-assembly-print-head/115344_32231980256.html Looks like who ever Ultimaker is outsourcing to is trying to sale direct.
  13. I'm a 1.75mm convert. IMO, simply the best upgrade to the printer (for me). First, 3mm here in America seems to end up with a supply of 3mm with a tolerance of 0.05mm, giving filaments that are likely to be too large to fit correctly in the stock bowden. 3mm in the 4 brands I tried ended up becoming extremely brittle. Most I couldnt leave in the bowden even overnight as they would snap just below the feeder. 3mm holds the curve of the spool which increases the chance of filament breaks in the bowden and/or increase feed resistance from fighting the bowden curve. And, again, in America, 3mm is a fair amount more expensive than 1.75mm. Makerbot which is big here uses 1.75mm. So, in order to try to make the prints more reliable and not waste large amounts of filament from breaks in addition to decrease in cost of filament I decided to try some 1.75mm. The only item that HAS to be changed is indeed the bowden (and likely feeder, but I was already using a Robert's Feeder, though I printed a new, slightly longer yolk). This is a PTFE (Teflon) tube with an OD 4.00mm and ID ~2.00mm. In order to use the UM2's 1/4" fittings two lengths of OD 1/4" with ID ~1/8th. But, Teflon does not glue to Teflon. Here is what you need - http://www.polytetra.de/en/products/special-products/tetra-etch-r-fluorocarbon-etchant.html A product called Tetra-Etch. This preps the surface to allow it to be bondable. So, on the right side the tube extends down through the isolator and the end of the inner bowden rests on the inside of the nozzle. This allows the 1.75mm filament to be fed directly into the nozzle tip. 1.75mm is much more flexible and seems to have much less resistance feeding. No unloading filaments at night. Filament can sit around without being stored in a desiccant bin. Honestly, IMO this was the best upgrade to my printer.
  14. I agree with illuminarti, I've had a feeling for some time that bowden/nozzle resistance has been an issue. Here is the path & info of what has been done to cure this. Resistance Failure Modes: -Bowden to Filament difference too small -Temperature too low for extrusion rate -Bowden Curve to Filament Curve difference -Filament dragging on deformed insulator -Filament catching on hardened filament pulled up/created during retraction What I've tried to eliminate resistance: -Changing where filament spool is located/feeds from -Doing EXTREME Atomic pull cleaning (become a pro at this, its a serious must) -Various Bowdens, Larger ID (Slightly larger and MUCH larger than filament), Different material, etc. -Changing from 3mm to 1.75mm filament -Moving the Feeder, Spool, and Bowden routing Here is the current configuration Conclusion: Provided the nozzle is VERY clean and temperature is set correctly for the material and extrusion rate then the best improvement was moving from 3mm to 1.75 filament. Changing the filament path may help 3mm filaments more but at this time the setup above has only been used for 1.75mm filaments. Positive 1.75mm flexes more than 3mm -Less prone to breaking/snapping at higher curves -Follow bowden curve easier & handles changing curve of bowden during printing -Contacts nozzle extruder at end of extrude, molten for less time, lower plastic breakdown -Faster Material Move, again decreasing time material is molten -Cheaper & more selection than 3mm in the US Negative -Requires Bowden capable of 2mm ID with 6mm OD (none premade, NOTHING bonds/glues PTFE - Teflon) -Requires feeder changes (follower to Drive wheel spacing) So, with this current setup if there is any layers that are not fully uniform its now ONLY a function of extrusion rate (temp vs speed x layer height) TL;DR - Remove feed resistance then its only a function of setting the right temp for the extrusion rate for a given material.
  15. I have found this to be the case as well. In some sections you could fully visible cracks along one side of the filament. The Ultimaker supplied PLA wasnt much more pliable than the Prototype Supply (supplied by eSun), so I believed thats the natural state of PLA. I just got a spool in from Reprapper and it is MUCH more pliable. While the material looks matte in color its printing with nearly that same nice gloss finish I was getting from the PS/eSun.
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!