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gornnr

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  1. So, it no longer works like Cura-v15.x where you can enter any given nozzle size. That is a bummer. Ok, so how much should I offset from the Measured Extrusion Width for a given nozzle for Line Width?
  2. So, don't use the drop down and instead ignore that and make multiple profiles? Why have the drop down?
  3. Hello, How can additional sizes of nozzles be added to Cura under the Ultimaker 2+ drop down? I've recently added a 2 to 2+ upgrade and after adding the Ultimaker 2+ printer I've lost the ability to set my nozzles. Thank you, Gorn
  4. As an interesting possible test. I measured the extrusion from extruding into free air (while doing an Atomic Cleaning) and it measured 0.43mm. Thought being, should there be a small clog the extruded diameter will be reduced due to the restriction.
  5. Just noticed that it looks like your walls and infill are not overlapping. So even in the "Good" area it looks like you are underextruding. This ColorFabb material does not list the specific plastic but that its loaded with carbon fibers. I am using a material at work that is PETG + CNT (Carbon Nano Tube) to make the filament ESD Safe. I've found that the filament tends to slip easily even with a good deal of force from the bearing side. Try this, when you see the underextrusion, assist the feeder by pushing the filament into the stepper. If the underextrusion goes away then your issue is me
  6. You can grab the second file and see for yourself. From left to right the gap increases from each face by 0.05mm, so the first gap is 0.05mm, the next to the right is a gap of 0.1mm, the next is 0.15mm and so on. What you will find is if you set the "Bottom/Top thickness (mm):" setting to say 0.2mm then from the 4th extrusions and all to the right of it, being 0.2mm or greater in gap size, will have properly solid faces. All at 0.15mm or lower will have incorrectly generated solid faces. At 1.0 "Bottom/Top thickness (mm):" the first 19 gaps will not have solid faces, but any at the 20th or
  7. So, did a "Fix for Cura" by making a modification to the inside of the hinge to make the faces at 45degrees. I then wanted to start testing to see the behavior in how Cura would produce solid faces at given spaces. And the results are interesting. Feel free to Grab this STL with 0.05mm Stepping Initial bottom face will not become solid until the gap is 1.15mm or larger. The next bottom face will not be a solid until 1.25mm. Interesting part, this is with the Bottom/Top Thickness setting at 1.2mm Playing around further, and indeed, changing the B/T Thickness moves where the faces are correct
  8. Ugh, that's not a fix in any sense. I've got a feeder similar to yours for 1.75mm filaments and it correctly detected the face on that. So there has to be a minimum gap size before Cura puts in a solid face.
  9. TL;DR: How far away must overhanging faces be for Cura to detect as a solid face? Modeled up a captive hinge for a home improvement project. When I tossed it into Cura I wanted to check the faces to make sure they would be separate, not just one solid cylinder. What I've found is Cura has decided to put a solid face several layers away from where the face should be. Airgap between each of the faces is 0.2mm and print settings are 0.1mm layers. Previously, on other parts I've designed in supports that have worked well with these settings however the faces where much further apart. STL can
  10. I use this material at work: ESD Safe PETG from 3DxTech ESD Safe and holds dimensions really well. Print quality is really close to PLA but survives higher temps and can be used around electronics.
  11. Rule #1 of underextrusion, Clean your Nozzle. Rule #2 of underextrusion, Slow down your speed (or turn up the temp) Just because plastic comes out of the tip doesn't mean you are getting 0.4mm of plastic out of the tip.
  12. With the bowden that I've made and pictured above, the bowden actually fits THROUGH the isolator. The bowden actually goes right down into the extruder. There is no space in the 3mm nozzle end for extra molten PLA as the bowden is in there. In this picture, the bowden is being held in front of the head relative to where it would be inside. You will see the bowden fits right down in the extruder up to the nozzle itself. Also, while looking for pictures of the U2 head I found this http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/3-D-printer-accessory-parts-ultimaker-2-UM2-Nozzle-hot-end-kit-set-assem
  13. I'm a 1.75mm convert. IMO, simply the best upgrade to the printer (for me). First, 3mm here in America seems to end up with a supply of 3mm with a tolerance of 0.05mm, giving filaments that are likely to be too large to fit correctly in the stock bowden. 3mm in the 4 brands I tried ended up becoming extremely brittle. Most I couldnt leave in the bowden even overnight as they would snap just below the feeder. 3mm holds the curve of the spool which increases the chance of filament breaks in the bowden and/or increase feed resistance from fighting the bowden curve. And, again, in America, 3mm
  14. I agree with illuminarti, I've had a feeling for some time that bowden/nozzle resistance has been an issue. Here is the path & info of what has been done to cure this. Resistance Failure Modes: -Bowden to Filament difference too small -Temperature too low for extrusion rate -Bowden Curve to Filament Curve difference -Filament dragging on deformed insulator -Filament catching on hardened filament pulled up/created during retraction What I've tried to eliminate resistance: -Changing where filament spool is located/feeds from -Doing EXTREME Atomic pull cleaning (become a pro at this,
  15. I have found this to be the case as well. In some sections you could fully visible cracks along one side of the filament. The Ultimaker supplied PLA wasnt much more pliable than the Prototype Supply (supplied by eSun), so I believed thats the natural state of PLA. I just got a spool in from Reprapper and it is MUCH more pliable. While the material looks matte in color its printing with nearly that same nice gloss finish I was getting from the PS/eSun.
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