ultiarjan

you get what you pay for, dimensional accuracy of Chinese clones can be terrible... it does not have to be... but its a risk for sure...

if you 'merge' the 2 models in Cura after importing them, they will be placed correctly in cura automatically, just like with any other dual extrusion model.

I see you basically are posting the same question 2x, and I now see you do use a top cover... thats good. Again, I would try the adhesion sheets... https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/22231-how-to-print-with-ultimaker-pc Adhesion Ultimaker PC is not an easy-to-print material because it tends to warp and delaminate if the printing environment and settings are not perfect. We strongly recommend using the adhesion sheets to achieve the best build plate adhesion when printing with Ultimaker PC. Alternatively, you can apply a thin layer of glue (included in the accessory box of your Ultimaker) to the glass build plate, but please note that adhesion with glue is less reliable than with adhesion sheets.

I never use PC myself, but looking at Ultimakers recommendations I would try the adhesion sheets... also you need to use a front cover, and probably also want to use a top cover.... https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/22231-how-to-print-with-ultimaker-pc Adhesion Ultimaker PC is not an easy-to-print material because it tends to warp and delaminate if the printing environment and settings are not perfect. We strongly recommend using the adhesion sheets to achieve the best build plate adhesion when printing with Ultimaker PC. Alternatively, you can apply a thin layer of glue (included in the accessory box of your Ultimaker) to the glass build plate, but please note that adhesion with glue is less reliable than with adhesion sheets.

the model seems indeed perfectly ok without support, but if you ever need "custom" support you can model it in in CAD, and safe the object and the support structure as 2 separate STL's, then just print like a nomal dual extrusion print (without support) and select the 2th nozzle for the custom support structure.

+1 for unifying print speeds

Tough I've not used the DDG, I like the QR feeders as they let you easily inspect the gears visibly, and are easy to clean. On the cura topic, I think it's much easier to setup a profile in cura for the CC0.6 than reprogram it to a 0.4 I've used the CC0.6 on my Ultimaker3 and just changed the line width, I should find some time to set it up with a proper profile someday..

and I assume the added benefit of adding it to base Cura will be that the save option can be in the visibility setting menu itself.

+1

what printer did you use? 0.3 nozzle is a bit of an odd one... and what settings?

did you try printing something from a different SD card?

I would also not place a printer so close to the edge of a cabinet without some extra security....

You can already make custom sets by editing the files that control the visibility settings. Just make a copy on an existing profile, change it in notepad++, and save it under a different name, also don't forget to change the name of the custom set in the file; obviously creating the custom list from the gui is a 1000x easier... so I would be very grateful @ahoeben if you ever find the time for this.

do you have an idea what is blocking the core for removal? there is never a need to remove core's via the menu, even in normal operation I switch core's all the time without using menu operations (same for fillament change). If there's a buildup of material blocking the core you may try adding some heat with a hot air blower, but be carefull not to overdo it with the heat... Without a picture it's hard to see the severity of your issue, so I have no idea if there's a need to still disassemble the head for cleaning. Though it's a pita ofc, it's not to difficult to do, and also the spare parts of the head (besides electronics and the metal bottom) are really cheap, so when in doubt I would replace parts....

I usually cut the filament end at a 45deg angle and straighten the tip a bit, then it's pretty easy imho