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ultiarjan last won the day on March 2 2020

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  1. you can adjust the UM2 files for laser or CNC, i've done it for a custom CNC'ed UM2GOext. for an UM2 its probably easier just to take the UMoriginal frame files and make the adjustments you want/need
  2. I really don't see why not, should be simple, but realistically Ultimaker will not support it in firmware. If you skip the fillament sensor it should be possible. I don't know the sparepart price of S5 feeders, but looking at UM3 pricing it's probably in the same range as using Bondtech
  3. You can use the cc0.6 on the Ultimaker3, you will still wear out your feeder wheel so if you plan on printing a lot a new bondtech feeder will be a good option.
  4. If you add it all up it may be cheaper to get a 2th hand Ultimaker2 ....
  5. The Ultimaker2 uses PT100 sensors for the bed and head, I'm pretty sure there are guides in this forum to help you convert the machine to an UM2, you need a small convertor board for the pt100. You may be able to find a UM2 head from people who have upgraded their UM2 to UM2+ ... here's some inspiration 🙂
  6. Yep, mounting it on the left side using a hinge to be able to fold it in could work well
  7. One of my Ultimaker2's is still original (apart from Tinkergnome's firmware), the 2 machines in the picture both have a duet board. On the left the UM2 with the 7"screen, which is silly, the 5"would look much better.... on the right my DIY Ultimaker GO extended, with the 5"screen. The screen position is not very smart if you want to use a front cover on the machine...
  8. I just did some serious maintenance on my 2 Ultimaker 2's (early 2014) . Cleaned all pulley's, got a new belt kit, new bowden, cleaned all rods, z-rod, z-nut, new ptfe thingy in the printhead (and I may forget something) basically spend some time and maybe 50 to 100 euro and the machine feels like new again, for me it really made a difference, specially in the noise department....
  9. Biggest thing for me is ease of use, just send the file to it directly from Cura, monitor progress on your phone, do a reprint directly from the screen (if you have it) or just any device with a browser. Just total control from any device. The control and ease of experimentation is also great, you control the whole setup from a few txt files, no more recompiling firmware, just a reboot. Also the machine becomes even more quiet.
  10. Think checking if the sensor is ok could be a fist step. In my S5 it's under Maintenance / Diagnostics / Leveling sensor test correction; I see you have an ultimaker3 (not S3), so it's under Maintenance / Diagnostics / Bed Level Sensor. Another common issue is a not proper;ly seated cable connector in the printhead. Unscrew the back to screws of the printhead, open the cover, push the connector to make sure its seated well. pictures are from here (USA Ultimaker manufacturer support pages); https://fbrc8.zendesk.com/hc
  11. +1 If it's single extrusion and it fits the build plate I also prefer the UM2. My most used machine is my UM2 upgraded with a duet3D board, it just has the best workflow. I do usually use the S5 for the more exotic materials.
  12. I don't really understand what you say, but just to be sure I'll point out the obvious.... you do get that the settings for the support extruder show when you select the 2th tab?
  13. Just go into the detail settings and adjust the line width. So change the 0,4 mm for a 0,4 nozzle into 1mm. Best select 'expert' settings to check all the different line widths, just set them all to 1mm. edit; somehow this forum software doesn't let me delete the double inserted screenshot....
  14. I just don't... I just leave the filament between my DIY box and the printer exposed.
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