ultiarjan

You can buy the original Olsson block at any ultimaker reseller, as it's a spare part for the UM2+. If you print a lot of abrasive material also have a look at a "ruby" nozzle iso stainless steel... http://olssonruby.com/

Whats the question? , just print a bracket and mount the feeder? And if you're upgrading anyway why not also put in a UM2 head.... and QR vs DDG, it seems to me the QR is easier to clean vs the DDG as it's a more open design. I happily use a QR on an UM2 for a long time.

The easiest and quickest way for all of this is just to do it manually imho, then you have full control. You can just go in the menu and heat the CORE to the temperature you need. On the S5 (love that new feeder) just open the feeder and push material in. On the UM3 (and 2+) use this thing to push material without hurting your fingers; https://www.youmagine.com/designs/wedgebot-for-ultimaker2

the other option @kmanstudios was referring to (and I can also not find it back) was leaving your pc on, and connect to the pc remotely. a user suggested "chrome remote desktop" but there are many options. I personally like VPN, easy and apparently safe. Also, as the build in camera's of UM3 and S5 are indeed in a odd position I use a raspberry pi , a few webcams and "motionEye" to remotely monitor my printers. On top I have my S5 on a "Wemo" networked powerplug so should anything go really wrong I can cut the power remotely (never had to use it though...)

Ok, now you made me even more curious 🙂

Good luck Dave!!! let us know how it's working out.

If what you want is basic heating and temp control why not just copy from the schematics from the ultimaker2, also on github. https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Go/tree/master/1546 Or to make it really easy just use some cheap Chinese 3d printer electronics

In my experience different types of nylon vary a lot in the amount of moisture they absorb. The ultimaker brand nylon prints pretty easy imho. I never dried it but I keep it in a box with descendants. Even during printing. I've also used samples of other brands and found some to be very difficult. It also matters where in the world you live... I'm not in a very humid place so that also helps ofc.. When you material gets to wet you can usually hear it when printing.

Not sure exactly why you need this but with the phone app you can remotely launch a print. At least when you are on the printers network. I do this using a VPN connection. Though I never start a print remotely as I prefer to be around for the first few minutes I use it for monitoring and the ability to remotely shut it down. I even added a WiFi powerplug just to be sure.

If you know a bit of CAD you can easily change the drawings of the um2 extended to make a design for for watercutting. I did the same with changing the um2go and cnc'd a frame. Also +1 for using the duet3d board. I converted a um2 with it and really like it...

If you only want the head just buy the original parts you need. You can order loose spare parts at ultimaker2 resellers. Just send one a mail with the parts you need. You can find all partnummer in the BOM on the ultimaker GitHub page. In my experience the dimensional accuracy of AliExpress parts was not great.

https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software/list

Think the firmware should be part of cura so download an older version of cura and try again. Did you check hardware? Are all cables properly seated?

Oh and when you mount it make sure it does not touch the metal fans holder.

You can just buy a Olson block at your ultimaker2 reseller. If you never replaced the original nozzle you may have trouble getting out the heater or sensor. Worst case you damage a wire and have to replace the pt100 heat sensor. It's pretty cheap to get a new one though. If you don't want to be out of business long get a spare before you replace the block.