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ultiarjan

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Everything posted by ultiarjan

  1. "The difference between the detected height of the two printcores exceeds the realistic values" It will usually help if you have a correct bed leveling. Level the bed manually first, in a way that you have about 13-14mm to the bottom of the bed (works for me), see picture. Also if its one of the first UM3's it may still have a weak bed spring at the back of the 3 adjustment wheels. If you can very easily pres the bed down at the back, you want to replace this 3th spring. The AA0.4 core is indeed worn down by using abrasive materials. You can still print with it, use it for vase mode f.e., but you want to replace it for fine detail prints. If you want to print abrasives you need the CC0.6 core with the Ruby nozzle.
  2. pretty sure the gummy bears feel different about this 🙂
  3. Sure, here's my system directory. DuetSystemDirectory.zip
  4. Got mine today from Trideus. (NL/BE/LUX)
  5. Just do it, you wont regret it... I used a different industrial powersupply I had laying around, but just cutting the plug of the UM PSU is the easiest.
  6. yep it's a known and reported bug, and as you mention there's an easy workaround, just push the material manually (open the feeder lever and just push filament to the end) and all is good.
  7. ok so I don't know the model but I'm assuming the top part is what you wanted to print and you got a huge layer shift? if thats the case it looks like a mechanical issue, probably a loose pully (the gears driven by the belts...) you can tighten them with the screwdriver that was included with your printer. You may need to check the alignment of the printer, check this out for tool and instructions; https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-s5-axis-alignment-tool ofc if I fully misinterpret the case please explain more, and share a picture of what the model should have looked like, settings used etc...
  8. I've also been working on a better single core design for Ultimaker2 for ages, with a metal 3d printed bottom plate. I still need to work on the bottom plate holding the front fan, but with the spare time I have atm it will probably still take ages 😞
  9. thanks @gr5 and this link is also relevant to get the parts.... link to connector: https://uk.farnell.com/avx-interconnect/9155005003016/connector-battery-5-pos-2-3mm/dp/9728449
  10. You can use the um3 head on the um2 by simply making a PCB with only the connectors touching the core electronics and wire to the mainboards heater and pt100 connection. No need for any fancy electronics. I've shown it here somewhere including the link to the correct component but on the phone and too lazy to find a link now 🙂
  11. What brand of ABS did you use?, Any should work but I think most brands of ABS need a higher printing temperature than the Ultimaker ABS default. Also (partially) closing the top of the printer to get a heated chamber can help when printing ABS. something like this... though I myself just put a curver box on top of my UM3 in the rare occasion I printed ABS, https://www.makerpoint.nl/nl/s5-cover.html Anyhow, depending on the specific need, many alternative materials are easier to use for sure...
  12. I'm confused, there was no need to heat the core before, I always change filament manually and I never had to heat before. the "10cm up" can probably be an issue with manual filament loading when people feed the material too far, how will you prevent grinded material in this case? I'm not sure which issue the extra 10cm is supposed to solve, but I can see it generate new issues ...
  13. In general there are hardly any limits to the masterials you can use on an um2. probably the biggest limit is use of materials that need a very high temperature (fe peek..) In the case of Xstrand and other "filled" materials you better use a hardened nozzle, like a 0.6mm Olson ruby. Filled materials can also wear out you feeder, so if you want to use a lot of filled materials you may want to upgrade the feeder to a bondtech. http://olssonruby.com/ https://www.bondtech.se/en/product-category/upgrade-kits/ultimaker/
  14. 1: you can drop as many items on the build plate as fits your printer. This is a good idea to combine smaller prints inmto one big one for overnight printing, so you utilise the machine fully. It's less logical for already long prints, as it adds risk, if the print fails you have multiple failed prints. 2: sure, cuttout a number on the BOTTOM of the print in CAD 3: not sure what you want to print from the picture, but the simple structures (the white building blocks?) could be a lot faster made traditionally in wood f.e. so you only print the complex parts?
  15. Now I'm curious... what happened? and how is it related to gradual infill?
  16. Yep. That cura behaviour annoys me ever since cura 2. It's even so that a different color of pla forces you to override. And indeed having to go to the webpage for the override is super confusing. The interface is a bit better in cura 4 but it's still a big annoyance. Looking at the fact it's a years old issue you probably have to live with it....
  17. Actually in my um3 I had the magnets pop out and glued them in... Just trust it will be fine. For now I'm just living on the edge without a tool with the s5 🙂
  18. Think my oldest Ultimaker2 is from the beginning of 2014... still going strong... Sounds to me like a mechanical thing, did you check all the screws and springs? maybe tighten the springs more? Just make them pretty tight, but be carefull to keep a bit of space between the power connection block (back left) between the bottom plate and the heated plate. As you mention it's on all 4 machines, common sense dictates that is likely something in your workflow, and not the machines... did you change anything in your way of working with the machines?
  19. Think that reduces the added benefit a lot, I feel you can still reduce the amount of probing more. Also, why still probe the unused nozzle, waste of time imho
  20. tried a 2th time, after rebooting, still probes both nozzles, but the # probes and the area (green) is better now, still does not seem a very logical area around the print, but at least smaller
  21. also, soon after the print start i lost connection with the printer, on a wired connecting... "mange printer" "connect", does not reconnect to the machine... rebooting Cura will not let me reconnect, have to reboot the S5 first.....
  22. first feedback; Install, ok sensor test, ok object based probing, not ok (Cura 4 beta 2) Sliced a tiny part, but it still probed the height of both nozzles, and it probed about the hole green area, not only the relevant area around the object. And even for the first print after firmware update the ,material was retracted so much that also the prime blob was not enough, so if you try this firmware just manually push the filament a bit....
  23. And if you have trouble getting a print of the glass plate don't start hammering on it but put it in the fridge for a while (print+glass)
  24. here's a list of all folders to delete to get a real clean install; https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/3051 And are you aware of the visibility settings button? you may want to select "show all" to see if there are messed up settings.. The settings not shown by default can indeed F@#$up you print... I particularly always check for crazy speeds, like to fast infill speeds...
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