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Everything posted by ultiarjan

  1. you can adjust the UM2 files for laser or CNC, i've done it for a custom CNC'ed UM2GOext. for an UM2 its probably easier just to take the UMoriginal frame files and make the adjustments you want/need
  2. I really don't see why not, should be simple, but realistically Ultimaker will not support it in firmware. If you skip the fillament sensor it should be possible. I don't know the sparepart price of S5 feeders, but looking at UM3 pricing it's probably in the same range as using Bondtech
  3. You can use the cc0.6 on the Ultimaker3, you will still wear out your feeder wheel so if you plan on printing a lot a new bondtech feeder will be a good option.
  4. If you add it all up it may be cheaper to get a 2th hand Ultimaker2 ....
  5. The Ultimaker2 uses PT100 sensors for the bed and head, I'm pretty sure there are guides in this forum to help you convert the machine to an UM2, you need a small convertor board for the pt100. You may be able to find a UM2 head from people who have upgraded their UM2 to UM2+ ... here's some inspiration 🙂
  6. Yep, mounting it on the left side using a hinge to be able to fold it in could work well
  7. One of my Ultimaker2's is still original (apart from Tinkergnome's firmware), the 2 machines in the picture both have a duet board. On the left the UM2 with the 7"screen, which is silly, the 5"would look much better.... on the right my DIY Ultimaker GO extended, with the 5"screen. The screen position is not very smart if you want to use a front cover on the machine...
  8. I just did some serious maintenance on my 2 Ultimaker 2's (early 2014) . Cleaned all pulley's, got a new belt kit, new bowden, cleaned all rods, z-rod, z-nut, new ptfe thingy in the printhead (and I may forget something) basically spend some time and maybe 50 to 100 euro and the machine feels like new again, for me it really made a difference, specially in the noise department....
  9. Biggest thing for me is ease of use, just send the file to it directly from Cura, monitor progress on your phone, do a reprint directly from the screen (if you have it) or just any device with a browser. Just total control from any device. The control and ease of experimentation is also great, you control the whole setup from a few txt files, no more recompiling firmware, just a reboot. Also the machine becomes even more quiet.
  10. Think checking if the sensor is ok could be a fist step. In my S5 it's under Maintenance / Diagnostics / Leveling sensor test correction; I see you have an ultimaker3 (not S3), so it's under Maintenance / Diagnostics / Bed Level Sensor. Another common issue is a not proper;ly seated cable connector in the printhead. Unscrew the back to screws of the printhead, open the cover, push the connector to make sure its seated well. pictures are from here (USA Ultimaker manufacturer support pages); https://fbrc8.zendesk.com/hc
  11. +1 If it's single extrusion and it fits the build plate I also prefer the UM2. My most used machine is my UM2 upgraded with a duet3D board, it just has the best workflow. I do usually use the S5 for the more exotic materials.
  12. I don't really understand what you say, but just to be sure I'll point out the obvious.... you do get that the settings for the support extruder show when you select the 2th tab?
  13. Just go into the detail settings and adjust the line width. So change the 0,4 mm for a 0,4 nozzle into 1mm. Best select 'expert' settings to check all the different line widths, just set them all to 1mm. edit; somehow this forum software doesn't let me delete the double inserted screenshot....
  14. I just don't... I just leave the filament between my DIY box and the printer exposed.
  15. there are many settings influencing this but in this case the first I would check are the skirt / brim settings
  16. try to clean the nozzle using 'cold pulls / atomic pulls' (google), if that does not help the nr1 issue is wear on this part, you need to replace it occasionally, frequency varies with the type/temp of materials you print. if you only print PLA you hardly ever have to replace it.
  17. ter info, 7 stuks Ultimaker2 kop op marktplaats. lijkt overgebleven na upgrade van 2 naar 2+, maar kop kan aardig zijn om een oude UMO te upgraden, of om een Ultimaker2 the upgraden naar 'mark2' magnetische toolchanger. https://link.marktplaats.nl/m1541120544
  18. It helps to add the few extra lines of skirt to avoid the 'old' color in the new print
  19. If you're only changing color and keep the same material type the easiest is to just open the feeder, pull out the material, push in the new color, close the feeder, and done... push material all the way to the end, and then retract (just pull back) a few mm.
  20. Just thinking out loud I would think the plastic part from the head, and also the feeder are injection molded, so they did not change. My best guess would be an issue with the small white couple thingy (with the metal teeth in it) as it's probably an externally bought part... did you change it with one of you other printers? But maybe the most likely issue is the bowden diameter being to small? did you check it? maybe swap with one of the other printers and see what happens...
  21. Nice work @scottmg what material did you use? Nylon for the gear?
  22. just water and soap... but only after many prints... and I mostly use a super small amount of glue-stick spread with a moist paper towel. I also sometimes scrape the glass-plate when its dirty from to much glue, while still in the printer, with a glass knive, and then reapply a thin layer of glue, or just use a moist paper towel without adding new glue. This really is my nr1 tool.
  23. Wanted a power socket on my TONONE reading light. So I made one. Colorfabb color on demand PLA. Added a little piece of ninjaflex for friction against rotation.
  24. I think the Ultimaker S line is leveling the bed very close, as a precaution, to make sure the bed adhesion is very good. Effectively deliberately over extruding on the first layer.
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