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ultiarjan

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Everything posted by ultiarjan

  1. Superhero's never die... ** early "Mark2" dual print...
  2. if it's structurally ok I think it is worth it, you can make it as cheap or expensive as you want (or can afford) First thing you can do is measure resistance of the bed itself, the PT100 inside (the temp sensor) should be around 108 ohm at room temp. The Heater part around 3,9 ohm if I remember correctly. I think motors hardly ever break, so its probably the stepper driver on the board. If the machine is as old as this one it will have a 5th driver on the main board you could remap this motor to (more info in this forum) But first simple swap 2 motors and rule out the motor is broken I would definitely replace with something like the original, I see 3 options; - use the upgrade kit, but it's pretty costly - buy some original UM parts, like the metal parts and the olson block, and get the rest chines clones - buy all chines clone stuff, you can be lucky but there's a chance stuff won't fit very well In case you would need to replace electronics I would get an Duet3D board, wil give you immediately a more modern printer, more silent and network connected. Yep, you can plug in a 108 ohm resistor, it wil tell the printer it's at 20c..... but be careful not to turn on (or even connect) the heater.... If you want it to be original the kit is a nice and easy option. If you spend a bit more time, you can save money. And alternatively you can get an Bondtech feeder iso the Ultimaker feeder (I would recommend this...) If you want to get it running with less investment just print a feeder... many UM2's ran on it for there first years... https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two Sure, no problem, just change the E-steps . If you use the "tinkerware" firmware (you should..) you can just set it from the menu. Don't know the correct steps by hart but it's in this forum somewhere, just ask again if you can't find it. did you know you find all parts and partnumbers, and the CAD file of machine here; https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2 https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Plus Good luck, enjoy your new printer. Oh and obviously check if the XY axis are straight, and replace the belts, most original Ultimaker spare parts are pretty affordable (except electronics and the feeder) if you buy them separately. Depending on where you live you may need to email your reseller a list for them to order. Some resellers keep a good stock.
  3. The way I do it manually heat the core by going into the menu and set the temp (in the menu the dots on the top right corner, out of my head, not near a machine now) and manually push fillament (open lever of the feeder and just push) I assume there's also a move material function in the menu somewhere but can't check now and never use it myself.
  4. I like what you're trying to do but the results are not the best jet. Sometimes the answers are unrelated to the issue or plain wrong. See enclosed a sample answer that came up on a question on surface blobs... The comments on infill % are pretty silly imho
  5. Speed is always a trade-off with quality. If you don't need dual extrusion the um2 is faster than the 3 or 5 simply because the head is more light weight. The ability to use pva supports, more material types, and the ease of use make the 3 and 5 a more flexible choice. Owning both I still use the um2 a lot for single material prints.
  6. Also very helpfull; https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004339946-XY-Axes-Parts-Belts-Pulleys-Motors- https://www.youmagine.com/search/designs?utf8=✓&search=alignment&state=9
  7. tried the 4.2 version, all seems fine, thanks again !!!
  8. Ultimaker only provides profiles for officially supported combinations, which is pretty limited, but you can use the CC0.6 perfectly on the Ultimaker 3 , or with many non supported materials. The easiest is usually to select a 0.4 profile (with the AA0.4 selected as core) for the material you want to use, and change the line width to 0.6 (or just below 0.6 as Ultimaker would do it), depending on the material and speed you may also need to slightly change the printing temperature and do a few test prints, but usually the 0.4 profile is a pretty good starting point. Be aware that if you want to use the CC0.6 in the Ultimaker 3 , that the feeder is not made for abrasive materials and may wear out. You can solve this f.e. by upgrading to bondtech feeders.
  9. Je, de driver op het moederbord zal wel stuk zijn.. Er zijn meerdere soorten bordjes in omloop. de oudere Ultimaker2 bordjes hadden altijd 5 drivers (xyz,e1 e2) omdat ze voorbereid waren op dual extrusion. Toen duidelijk werd dat dat nooit zou gaan gebeuren voor de UM2 heeft Ultimaker op een gegeven moment bordjes gebruikt waarop de 5e chip niet meer werd geplaatst. Heb je een bordje met 5 chips, dan zou je volgens mij de ongebruikte E2 in de firmware kunnen mappen als Y motor. Wellicht kan iemand anders je helpen, in dit forum zijn wel voorbeelden te vinden van het compilen van UM2 firmware. Als je toch hardware wil vervangen zou ik een Duet3d bordje inbouwen, heb je meteen een modernere stillere machine, met netwerk functionaliteit... en ook goedkoper dan een Ultimaker bordje.
  10. The prime tower is a little tower that prints between material change/layer change and will prevent polution from one material into the other. You can select it in Cura in the dual extrusion settings.
  11. the CC is absolutely fine for PLA imho, like you say just take the 0.4 profile and take it from there...
  12. The argument after the introduction of the UM3 has been that creating the matching profiles for all material types was the delaying factor. While I understand that for a few months, the UM3 is almost 3 yr's old now... so a complete line up of core's would be nice. I personally like the 0.6 so much I drilled out a AA0.4 before the CC0,6 was available.
  13. While the cc0.6 is great it's pretty pricey... So availability of a 'normal' 0.6 core would be a nice addition to the lineup. Specially considering the um3 feeders can't handle abrasive material anyhow...
  14. I just did a quick testcube using mine (also on S5) and it prints just like any other core. I must add that my hardcore is an early one (from the early days of the UM3), which I know was build using original UM core parts, so I guess in the meantime 3dsolex switched to all own produced parts if you say yours is moving more difficult than a normal core. Did you contact 3dsolex about it? That's what I would do first..
  15. lol, that's quick, enjoy !!
  16. yep, try again with a bit bigger towers, and as @gr5 mentioned So don't place them at the back, but next to the small dot's on your main object, so while printing the tower some airflow goes onto the main print.
  17. I think a new single core Ultimaker printer, with a core but a much lighter head than the UM3/S5 would definitely make sense. But as @ahoeben mentioned the only people who know won't disclose anything until it's there. My gut feeling is it will not happen but that's pure speculation. In the meantime, if the UM2+ is on the boundaries of your budget why not get a 2th hand? the machine is super reliable and if you reserve a little budget for spare parts it will serve you for years.
  18. Ok first... I have no real clue about the technique behind cura, but I’m thinking cura has the option to define forbidden area’s of the platform, so perhaps that’s current functionality you can use? You can define the area’s in the printer definition file.
  19. So just to be clear, you don’t own a Ultimaker printer, but use Cura, the free open source product for which Ultimaker is paying a large part of the development, and when something goes wrong you feel the need to bash Ultimaker? I understand being frustrated sometimes..... and you excused yourself already..... but please be nice....
  20. Aha, so a firmware install does not overwrite the wrong settings.... someone who has an UMO needs to pitch in here....
  21. Not an expert but I would guess some issue with the power supply or heater/pt100 sensor. Can you try with another power supply? (Do you have more than one UM2 or can borrow one?) For the heater and the PT100 temperature sensor you can check if they are ok by measuring there resistance with an ohm. Meter. The PT100 should be about 108 ohm at room temp, the heater I’m not sure but can check later if needed. And if you do the above you need to disconnect them from the main board, also check if the connectors are tight, if not this is probably already the issue...
  22. I don’t own a UMO but my first question would be can you still connect to it from cura when you connect it to a pc with an USB cable? If so you can just update to the latest firmware from cura.
  23. I don’t see the picture, but from what I understand your nozzle clogged and then the feeder is grinding the filament. I would advise to clean the nozzle (google: atomic pull or cold pull) and maybe also clean the feeder if it happens again. The main reasons for this issue is printing to fast and/or printing not hot enough. Try starting with Cura’s default profiles and you should be fine. Finally, do you have an Ultimaker2 (with the small black feeder) or an ultimaker2+ (white feeder) if its still the old black feeder I would advise to upgrade with a bondtech feeder.
  24. If the 2 models are also correctly on top of each other in CAD and are saved as separate STLs you can use the merge function in CURA (select all, right mouse click on the model) to position them correctly.
  25. How fast it will degrade depends on the material and temperature used, but it should last for more than just a few prints normally. Luckily the part is super cheap (like 1 euro) so in case of doubt just replace it. It’s a part of which you always want to keep a few on stock
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