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ultiarjan

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Posts posted by ultiarjan

  1. On 5/21/2020 at 5:28 PM, Enigma_M4 said:

    Would it be possible to install S5 feeders instead of bondtech (without tinkering with E-steps)? I wonder if the filament sensor would also work, as the wiring is present, the firmware 5.2.11 is identical to the corresponding firmware of the S5 and the temperature graph of cura connect contains two extra feeds named sensor0 and sensor1?

     

    I really don't see why not, should be simple, but realistically Ultimaker will not support it in firmware. If you skip the fillament sensor it should be possible. I don't know the sparepart price of S5 feeders, but looking at UM3 pricing it's probably in the same range as using Bondtech

    • Thanks 1
  2. 21 hours ago, maht said:

    It's technically possible but it can grind away at your feeder wheel/nozzle bore, so you'd need to accept that risk.

    Using a CC core with an S3 or S5 is more suited to composites (not trying to upsell, just facts).

     

    You can use the cc0.6 on the Ultimaker3, you will still wear out your feeder wheel so if you plan on printing a lot a new bondtech feeder will be a good option.

    • Like 1
  3. The Ultimaker2 uses PT100 sensors for the bed and head, I'm pretty sure there are guides in this forum to help you convert the machine to an UM2, you need a small convertor board for the pt100.  You may be able to find a UM2 head from people who have upgraded their  UM2 to UM2+ ...

     

    here's some inspiration 🙂

     

     

    • Like 1
  4. 13 minutes ago, RudydG said:

    got a picture?

     

    One of my Ultimaker2's is still original (apart from Tinkergnome's firmware), the 2 machines in the picture both have a duet board. On the left the UM2 with the 7"screen, which is silly, the 5"would look much better.... on the right my DIY Ultimaker GO extended, with the 5"screen. The screen position is not very smart if you want to use a front cover on the machine...

     

    UltimakerDuet2x.thumb.jpg.2a5e7f65b3ff365eb9e892f02b78a009.jpg

  5. 2 hours ago, Mightynova63 said:

    I have lots of squeaks cumming form somewhere in the gantry

     

    I just did some serious maintenance on my 2 Ultimaker 2's (early 2014) . Cleaned all pulley's, got a new belt kit, new bowden,  cleaned all rods, z-rod, z-nut, new ptfe thingy in the printhead (and I may forget something) basically spend some time and maybe 50 to 100 euro and the machine feels like new again, for me it really made a difference, specially in the noise department.... 

  6. 1 hour ago, RudydG said:

     

    I have a complete Duet with big screen lying around, what would i gain by modding my 2+?

    Biggest thing for me is ease of use, just send the file to it directly from Cura, monitor progress on your phone, do a reprint directly from the screen (if you have it) or just any device with a browser. Just total control from any device.

     

    The control and ease of experimentation is also great, you control the whole setup from a few txt files, no more recompiling firmware, just a reboot.  Also the machine becomes even more quiet. 

  7. Think checking if the sensor is ok could be a fist step.

     

    In my S5 it's under Maintenance / Diagnostics / Leveling sensor test

    correction; I see you have an ultimaker3 (not S3), so it's under Maintenance / Diagnostics / Bed Level Sensor.

     

    Another common issue is a not proper;ly seated cable connector in the printhead. Unscrew the back to screws of the printhead, open the cover, push the connector to make sure its seated well.

     

    image.png.d4e54c2f449c4cb3eb9be7ecb9cdfe6a.png

     

    image.png.2afc36525325eef0c0999e6dd4172a70.png

     

     

    pictures are from here (USA Ultimaker manufacturer support pages);

    https://fbrc8.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004541446-Printhead-Ultimaker-3-Ultimaker-3-Extended-

     

     

  8.  

    Just go into the detail settings and adjust the line width. So change the 0,4 mm for a 0,4 nozzle into 1mm.

    Best select 'expert' settings to check all the different line widths, just set them all to 1mm.

     

     

     

    image.png.c6de9a13aee3dc65ff39f6a950757f5b.png

     

     

     

     

     

    image.thumb.png.f56cd36ec13aff32d1a02da2d96eb985.png

     

     

    edit; somehow this forum software doesn't let me delete the double inserted screenshot....

     

    image.png

  9.  

    try to clean the nozzle using 'cold pulls / atomic pulls' (google), if that does not help the nr1 issue is wear on this part, you need to replace it occasionally, frequency varies with the type/temp of materials you print. if you only print PLA you hardly ever have to replace it.

     

     

    image.png.0e71ae8807fcaf9cc73dca1532c66656.png

  10. Just thinking out loud I would think the plastic part from the head, and also the feeder are injection molded, so they did not change. My best guess would be an issue with the small white couple thingy (with the metal teeth in it)  as it's probably an externally bought part... did you change it with one of you other printers?

     

    But maybe the most likely issue is the bowden diameter being to small? did you check it? maybe swap with one of the other printers and see what happens...

     

     

  11. just water and soap... but only after many prints... and I mostly use a super small amount of glue-stick spread with a moist paper towel.

     

    I also sometimes scrape the glass-plate when its dirty from to much glue, while still in the printer, with a glass knive, and then reapply a thin layer of glue, or just use a moist paper towel without adding new glue.

     

    This really is my nr1 tool.

     

     

    image.png.dcb476b7dc446f7b5c82a6da1e9b71e3.png

    • Like 2
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