ultiarjan

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-s5-axis-alignment-tool Handy tool to check you axes...

+1 for lights control in the app

Regarding upgrading your um3 to Bondtech feeders to get a abrasive resistant setup be aware afaik in the um3 firmware there's only one entry for the steps/mm so you need to upgrade both feeders. I would really like to be able to upgrade only my main feeder.... And regarding replacing the knurled bold in the um feeder... Early feeders on the um2+ had this as a separate replaceable part but current models have it fixed to the gears and it's no longer replaceable..

tthis whole question reminded me of this.... though with a different goal

Did you print the lever parts? what material did you use?

Cool !! I assume it's not possible to change nozzles in this design without taking apart the head? To make it easy for others... picture from github;

I picked up an original Ultimaker S5 glassplate last Saturday at Makerpoint; https://www.makerpoint.nl/en/print-table-glass-s5.html

"any" is impossible to answer ? but it should be possible for sure if you put in the time. biggest issue could be the firmware. Unless you also change out electronics for f.e. a duet3d board. out of curiosity, which printer would you want to adapt ?

out of curiosity I got some aliexpress stuff at the beginning of the M2 project and the experience was mostly not too good. electronics: a copy UM2 board worked fine, but you have to be carefull and compare to the real one as some connectors were mounted upside down (polarity issue on leds if I remember correctly) the metal parts of the head were usable but not great, holes not lining up properly. Could all be made to work however the original ultimaker parts are not much more expensive so i would not go chinese here. Olson block and steel coupler: get the real thing, too many issues with part not fitting

I guess you need one of these? every re seller should be able to get it for you. Usually it works the quickest if you give them the Ulitmaker part number (see below) some resellers do a good job of listing all parts on there webshop, but unfortunately most dont. http://www.mindkits.co.nz/ultimaker-parts.aspx?ps=240 another good source is the Ultimaker Github , specially the BOM and the 3D model; https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3

And just to be clear. With tinker firmware you can just change direction directly in the menu. No need for complicated firmware changes.

I have no idea what @rigs adaptor looks like, but fyi I made this one. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/bondtech-qr-high-bracket-for-ultimaker2

ah yeah, Neo is right, it's 5Volt and 12, not 24V, sorry...

the fans used in the ultimaker3 (partnumber on github) are available in 12V and 24V

The issue is not WiFi. I also loose connection after some time and I have my machines wired up. The strange thing is I can still see the video stream after the connection is lost.

I have never used a CR10, but the first thing that comes to mind is that the consistency of the temperature sensor on these Chinese machines may not be to good, meaning that with the same gcode one machine may be printing a lot hotter than the other. You probably need to dial the 2th machine in separately. Do some tests until you find comparable results. Sounds like you need to print a bit colder on the newest machine.

Can you share some screenshots and a project file so someone can try to reproduce the issue? Cura bugs can be reported here; https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues If you share on the forum someone else may pick it up and report it for you.

Though I fully agree there lot's of room for improvement on the Cura user experience.... a rant is usually not the best start to get help..... Can you share some screenshots of what you tried to do or better upload the model? that will make it a lot easier to help you.

If you look here you'll find all ultimaker 3 parts, the BOM and the 3D model. the screw you need is part: 1206 https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3 quick look at the BOM tells me its an M3 x 20mm

I find the 0.8 surprising to start with, as cura uses a default line-width of 0.35 (for a 0.4 nozzle) and 0.8 is not a multiple of 0.35 Are you using an Ultimaker version of cura? what printer? did you try to overrule it by setting the wall line count?

for a vase in Spiralize mode, I like to use a bigger nozzle like 0.6 or 0.8. you can also set the linewidth even higher. f.e. you can print with a 1 mm linewidth using the 0.8 nozzle to get a nice sturdy wall. Set the printing temperature a bit higher if you do this. Setting flow a bit higher can help getting your vase watertight. In the unlucky event your vase did not turn out watertight just coat it on he inside with some PVC glue.

if you want to print single extruder the only thing you need to do is slice the part in cura as a normal Ultimaker2(+) and thats it. Obviously if you want to use the full buildplate you need to remove the 2th extruder (hang it on the outside of the printer) and remove the dock. There's no need to make any firmware changes. so if your 2th extruder heats something is wrong, I assume in your Cura setup. There should be no difference between normal firmware and mark2 firmware afaik but I have not used the original Ultimaker firmware for years, so I compare only with @tinkergnome single extrusion firmware. I don't see a relation between firmware and small part adhesion, as in both firmware's you level your bed manually....

don't have access to CURA atm, but check for "retract at layers change" or something called similar and see if it helps to turn it off

Unfortunately this is broken for the UM3 and the S5; https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/3676

ah @kmanstudios at it again! congratulations with another victory ?