ultiarjan
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Posts posted by ultiarjan
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zojuist de fanduct erop gezet, ik had hetzelfde ... linkerkant kwam tegen de zijwand.
Makkelijk op te lossen, gewoon de eindstop schakelaar links achter iets uitbuigen (metalen lipje met tang iets naar voren krom buigen) en klaar .... let op!! niet te ver buigen want dan wordt de schakelaar helemaal niet meer ingedrukt...
Na verbuigen even checken door met de stroom eraf de kop naar links achter te schuiven, per as aan beide zijkanten beetpakken zodat je de assen niet krom buigt....
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hmmm... dan moet ik denk ik zelf maar een voor & na test gaan doen :-P geen idee wanneer, misschien a.s. weekeinde ....
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Hi Harold,
Not sure, but I believe this test has a layer hight around 0.2 mm and fan's off...
Butt the main point is that when I do the same test, on the same machine, I get a much better result with regular XT than with the new color XT .....
I'm hoping to get some test results from others ..... I'm sure others have some samples from the 3d print show ....
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Could you elaborate? Not sure I understand what exactly you are wanting to document. When you say "How to make corrections in CAD", are you thinking of a ,tutorial, if you will, on how to make those corrections in CAD?
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Was more thinking along the lines off a data table with offset values, for example if you need a 3.2 mm hole in your project, printing in PLA the CAD design needs a hole of 3.5 mm, in XT you'll need a hole of 3.3 mm (fictional values..) In real life it will be a combination of CURA behaviour, material, temperature etc etc... so this will be hard to get precise....
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Harold,
To be honest although I use this test I'm not at all interested in the 10mm3/s, I usually print at low speeds.
My main concern is the poor adhesion between layers at lower speed. I see a big difference between the "normal" XT and the color XT. The test printed at 3 mm3/s / 250 celsius are strong in "normal" XT but very weak in the new color XT... I can just pull them loose with my fingers..
I know this is just based on one sample piece, so I'm curious to hear from colorfabb if this material should have the same properties as the regular XT.
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I had the same, and since I'm still using XT but always let it cool till the part gets loose by itself, I'll never put pressure on it anymore or use a knive .... If the ambient temp is to high (higher than 20 celsius) put your glass plate a few minutes in the fridge ....
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when you want to adjust a post there's the edit button.... but how can I edit the tittle of a post ?
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Did another cross check with regular colorfabb XT, also at 250 celcius.
Optically the same result as with the color XT (failing at 10 mm3/s) but here the inter layer adhesion is MUCH BETTER. Just as with the PLA at 230, I can not pull layers appart using my fingers.....
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gaat dat goed met die fan shroud van PLA (wordt dat niet te warm??) ik zou dat denk ik met XT hebben gedaan ...
merk je hier echt effect van ?
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Just tried again at 250 celcius, as you see it looks a lot better, but still the inter layer adhesion is very poor.
Even the layers in the 3 & 4 mm3/s area can be easilly torn appart. Did a check with Ultimaker PLA red at 230 celsius and this came out perfect to the top, and here I can really not pull the layers appart using just my fingers...
So It seems you need to go higher than 250 celcius.... (and order a pack of teflon pieces ...) if you want to use this XT.
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maybe someone from colorfabb ( @Gijs ) can clearify the advised printing temperature, I see that on the site now the advised temperature for the regular XT is also 240-260.
On the box I have from april it says 250-260, the box I have form june is labeled 240-260 so I assume this advice on printability at 240 is a deliberate change.
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Just did a first test with the new colorfabb XT color material (got it at the 3d printshow last week).
First test failed as the material did not stick to the bed (let loos around 5mm3/sec), but after a good soap cleaning of the glass that was solved.
The advised print temp = 240-260. I printed at 240.
At 240 celcius the bonding between the layers is very poor, the print failed at 7mm3/s, but also on the lower layers it takes very little force to peel the layers appart.
Will do some testing at higher temperatures later ....but to avoid buying new teflon pieces all the time I would like to keep the temp as low as possible ...
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http://www.dezwijger.nl/115742/nl/tegenlicht-meet-up-24-de-nieuwe-makers
er is woensdagavond ook nog een "meetup" in pakhuis de zwijger ....
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je kunt proberen meerdere tegelijk te printen (dus niet een voor een) zodat er meer tijd is voor de individuele onderdelen om af te koelen..... maar smalle toppen zijn een bekend probleem...
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Tried it again outdoors, there is an effect but I find it rather minimal.
If you want to try for yourself i've just uploaded the file;
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/audio-frame-for-gopro-3
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And although some people here complain about the high price of spare parts (I know I'm lucky to live in the Netherlands looking at the shipping cost..) I thought replacing the parts like I just did was not so bad after I got this in my mailbox
Reminds me I talked to a makerbot guy at the 3d printshow on saturday and asked him about cleaning nozzles just to have a little bit of fun ... answer; your not supposed to take them appart, you can just click on another one .... bit of a pricy machine to maintain .....
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agree, just added a link to this topic in the "visual guide" thread
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Ignace, I'm pretty sure it's a dirty nozzle (inside) causing the furry issue....
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7284-furry-prints-how-to-get-rid-of-the-hair/?p=68335
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THE FUR IS GONE !!
so I started cleaning my nozzle this evening, tried poking it with a skewer, did a few "atomic pulls" but did not get a nice clean tip after an atomic.
Decided to go al the way and change my teflon piece and nozzle for a new one. Actually the old teflon did not look so bad, just a little brim, the nozzle was coated with dirt on the inside....
Now with the new gear, PERFECT MATERIAL FLOW, i did see a buildup of PLA on the outside of the nozzle during the first layer, but it has cleaned itself during printing later on, it's still printing atm and the nozzle is perfectly clean.
So now I want to clean the old nozzle, I read here somewhere people are using a gas torch for it, but how do you actually do that ? Is there a danger of damaging the brass by overheating easily ?
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If we could somehow document when and how to make corrections in CAD it would be a great source to share ..... but personally I'm not that good in documenting though :shock:
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@pm_dude, thanks for your testing!
About my printroom; it's around 20 celcius, heating is off atm, no airco, no drafts I can notice. I have no idea about the humidity, wouldn't know how to measure it ....
I was most surpriced by how fast my nozzle got dirty again, so I'll clean till I'll get a nice straight flow of material again, If needed Ii'll change the nozzle with a new spare one (have one in stock).
Try to continue testing tonight... but not sure if I'll get to it...
@Didier, if you have a look at your timelaps, please let us know how dirtty (or clean) your nozzle was ....
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good idea! I've send you a message ....
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Tested some more this evening, after cleaning the nozzle again... same model/material (colorfabb magenta PLA/PVA) tested at 95 % flow, no effect at all, still a large amount of furr.
Cleaned again (only outside of nozzle) and tried with UM blue PLA, still furry, but a lot less. So I'm beginning to think it's the model (slicing of the model) as main issue, but there's for sure a big difference per material.
Some idea's for further testing (later this week...)
- same model, sliced again, maybe on a different scale...
- same material & setting, different model.
I thingk I'll also do a "full" cleaning of the nozzle first, as I noticed at the start of the print the flow of material was not nicely going straight down, but more on one side, this may have something to do with the nozzle getting dirty so fast....
colorfabb color XT , first test
in Coffee corner
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Harold, interesting, so the fans seem to make a lot of difference.
I downloaded your cilinder, currently printing something else but wil try it later with your settings.
Will use your settings to do another comparison vs regular XT, as I saw a clear difference in favour of the regular XT in my previous test...