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Posts posted by ultiarjan
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In my experience at 70c it sticks good to the glass... as long as your glass is clean. I think its more of an issue compared to pla. Just to be sure wash your glass with some soap. And i usually run it under hot water for some time to make sure all the soap is gone...
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Just thinking about the gui. Can imagine that different objects or areas of objects get a different color and the settings that can be set per object get the color of the selected object as background color so you know what your working on.
And maybe a "default on" mark to alter settings for all objects...
@daid: relax, greatfull for every improvement I get. Already very happy with cura. Is there a public development roadmap for cura? So we dont ask for stuff already somewhere in the planning...
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I like the idea of graphical interfacing to make changes a lot. Works also very good in f.e. photoshop (lightroom) but its probably very difficult to realise.
I would also love to have the ability to use various infills in a part but would not mind preparing in CAD. Maybe a bit like the use of combining a part for dual head print... although for structural quality in this case the walls would of course need to be printed at once.
Maybe a lot easier i would also like to be able to set the main settings like fill/speed etc separately for multiple items i print at the same time. Basically just like you now select an item for scalling or rotation i would like to be able to change all settings per part on the bed.
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Like the new start a lot. Big improvement. For me its good the way it is now. Thanks!
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If you go keep an eye on the events section... we're probably meeting somewhere in a pub afterwards on saterday...
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Dont know. I print it on a 70c bed.
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Alternative to abs you could also use colorfabb xt. Prints easier than abs and has beter heat resistance vs pla.
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Hmm just checking. Will it always override minimal layer time? So also when printing at 105% the 10 will become 5 (+ 5%) ???
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I asume um is not producing the material they sell (?) anybody an idea who's the original manufacturer ?
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Just discovered that file explorer om my new win8 laptop shows previews of stl's. Not sure if win7 wil also do this. Not near my desktop atm. Handy to do a quick check on orientation before you publish anything.
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Blizz: I usually buy at conrad or rs-online (rs are the guys that gave us dsm...)
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Does anybody know if its easy to change the location on the printbed for this test? Would like to see the impact of friction in the bowden tube (how much its bend). So print one in the left-back and front-right...
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I was alway using a piece of paper for this at startup. .. but since cura 14.7 its massively improved. Oozing takes place in the left front corner with a raised bed... no more chunks of plastic in my first layer.
@daid. Thanks for this. Like it a lot.
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Sure. Pub on Saturday evening ? I'll leave my wife & kids at home....
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I just use the pause function on the printer. You'll need a feeder you can open. Like roberts (or my derivative)
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Don't know your application but look into ColorFabb XT too.... Warm bed + hairspray works well.
I order the 2.85mm version from http://www.printedsolid.com/ very fast shipping in my case...
http://www.printedsolid.com/shop/3mm/colorfabb-xt-2-85mm/
I print XT without any spray or other stuff, just a good clean bed of 70 C works fine for me.
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@ spirit ; looks good... like it that you're sharing your development history!
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I see no reason why you could not use a UPS,
http://www.apc.com/products/family/index.cfm?id=27&tab=models
think an UM2 runs at about 200 W ....
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Can anybody please tell me WHICH connector from JST is used for the fans? I guess it's the same everywhere a fan is connected or pluged in, independent of the UM model, isn't it? But there are quite some different series from JST (PH, XH, ....)
In general when you need to now details on components its easy to start looking at the design file (STEP) of the UM2
( https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/Assembly%20UM2%20stepfile.STEP )
You can open the STEP in Design Spark Mechanical, and even modify it ( using this trick > http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2772-spaceclaim/page-3#entry53816 )
You can look into the STEP file to find the partnumber of the part you'r interested in. When you then look at the PDF of the partnumber (also on github) you can sometimes find additional info.
In the case of your connector question, the drawing of the fan (part 1330) does not contain this info, but if you look at the other cooling fans (B1313-ZIP-A) you'll see its a JST XHP-2 (they look the same to me...)
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Robert: I really like the transparent instruction picture with support in red... what software did you use?
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ha ha ... nice edit ...
by the way, I keeps things fairly simple .... the back plate I'm making is an add-on to the back off the printer. I try to do only things that can easily be reversed.... so no drilling or cutting in the UM2 .... probably the only thing that may scare off some people is taking the feeder motor out of the printer...
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maybe have a look here, I did not published it jet (see also page 34) but maybe you could use my "compact" version of the well known low friction spool holder.
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I made some progress, got inspiration from the "DIN rails" as used to mount breakers and stuff into electrical cabinets.
So I designed a back plate, out of 3 parts to mount on the back of the UM2, which will give you 4 rails to mount stuff on.
I like the idea of being able to move the spoolholder(s) from left to right, so if you change color while printing you can move the spool under the feeder. Will also be usefull when we get to dual feeder someday... or experiment with "paste struders" etc....
here's a pic of one of 3 parts (the right bottom part) , it has a left and right bottom part and a middle top part, mounted to the holes of the feeder motors, and a specially made bracket to fit into the originally spool holder holes, on top I will still need to make a clamb for the top part of the UM2 (or fix to 2 existing UM2 screws, not sure jet)
Not shure if I'll be able to share and publish before I go on holiday in a few day's
Obviously you could also use the components I made separately, It will be simple to make a holder for the "compact spool holder" to fit the "normal" UM2 location.
Using new ColorFabb XT Transparent PLA
in Materials & profiles
Posted
I do have an issue with black spots in my print. On longer prints ( 15 hrs or so) i suspect some xt is sticking to the outside of the nozzle and carbonises. On my latest long print i had 3 black blobs in my print....
Anyone know how to prevent this?