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ultiarjan

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Everything posted by ultiarjan

  1. Just tried again afterhaving the printer off for half an hour (walking the dog....) it still immediatly starts to print.... but you are right there seems to be a protection against grinding.... the feeder motor is not moving at all. So I press print, bed goes up, head is moving as if its printing, and feeder motor does nothing.... Just to be sure I'll flash the firmwear again now ....
  2. Suddenly my UM2 will start a printjob without waiting for the bed or head to be warmed up. This happend after I used the maintenance funtions to heat up. I even did a factory reset, went through the original setup steps, but still it starts directly. Both bed and head sensors seem ok (I get a room temperature reading). Can this be something hardware related or did I somehow trigger a bug in the newest firmweare update (that came with cura 14.07) ?? Thanks for any help, Arjan
  3. do you know what settings you used for the 15mm3/sec test ? (speed/temp/flow) and how much you compressed the spring ? do you use the original UM spring? I just did a speedtest on the Bronzefill, stopped it at 5 mm3/s as I wonder how bad this stuff is for my nozzle. You need to follow the Colorfab advice of +/- 104 / 108% flow, underextrusion at 100% even at low speed. Just printed a ring, it does not have a metal look jet, also not after sanding. Will have to buy some copper polish tomorrow.....
  4. Just did a new speed test after I increased the arm lenth on my feeder by 2 mm. Looks good to me .... certainly as these speeds are way higher than I would actually use.. Colorfabb pla, started out at 220 C / 100 % flow, increased temp to 230 above the 3 mm3/s, later on I increased flow to 105%, and over 7 mm3/s I increased temp to 240C. I had the spring tension at 10.45 mm in this test. I tried before at 12mm, which is fine at lower speeds.
  5. I just figured it out myself while doing an extrusion test... I only tested at low speeds ...have just updated the design files with 2mm extra length ... I'm curious about your ninja test. Just got my delivery of ColorFabb bronze fill today, will try do do a test later this week.
  6. and here it is .... jet another feeder alternative for your UM2 .... Based on looking at the different designs already available, I tried to list what I liked and disliked on them, to come up with the best design for my own taste. But first some remarks on the 2 designs that influenced mine the most (> Thanks Robert and Geeks for your great work!!!!) My impression of the design by "|Robert|" (I printed it with the intention to install, butt never got to it cause I made this alternative..) > https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two + Super cool looks + "quick release" + open design, easy to clean + Easy adjustment of the bearing pressure. - the part of tube at the bottom that needs to be loaded from the back, don't like that I can't see if rubish is pilling up there. - the tiny spacers used on the left screws (and the arm mounting on the motor screws). My impression of the design by "Geeks" (from the pictures, I did not print it) > https://www.youmagine.com/designs/extruder-um2-version-2) + Easy adjustment of the bearing pressure. + Separate mounting of feeder and motor. + the guide arm (although I don't need it in my setup) - closed design may be hard to clean, possible build up of fillament parts. - no "quick release". Some general guidelines I came up with before I started drawing.... * I don't mind additional components as long as it standard easily available stuff like bolts and nuts * needs to fit on the back of the UM2, want to keep the drivemotor in its original place. I liked to combine the following; + mechanicaly strong, easy to print. + "quick release" + open design, easy to clean + Easy adjustment of the bearing pressure. nice to have; + Separate mounting of feeder and motor. + Goods looks... but mostly a matter of taste.. After printing I needed to sand the part of the main arm, where it connects with the bearing arms a bit ... I printed all with 100% infill, as you see in the pictures not all parts are nice and clean, I had some issues with the original feeder and underextrusion ..... First thing I'm doing now is to print this feeder again .... And just some mounting guidelines.... - print all the parts - remove your original feeder by attachting a piece of string to the motor shaft, hing something a bit heavy on it so the motor will stay in place when you take out the screws. - mount the right bottom screw part of the new feeder, so your motor will stay in place when you undo the string. - take the original parts like spring and bearing, to mount on the new feeder. - mount feeder, ready to go ! ** first result looks promising, just finished a 1 hr print, looks perfect, much beter than before !! I'm thinking to keep an eye on potential wear at the bottom fillament entrance, and alternative could be to make there a fillament connection just like the one on top with a short piece of tube... (but you would need to order these extra clips...) >>> I'll put the design files on youmagine <<< update; 30/6 , added a little knob for easy adjustment. update; 2/7, as cor3ys already mentioned in the next page of this thread the arms holding the bearing are a bit to short (sorry, I only tested at low speeds...) updated the file. Version nr. 25 of the front and back arm have 2mm increased length. at the same time made a little change for easier installing the m3 x 50mm bolt...
  7. I'm still on thingiverse but these guys can't take a little stinger .... my "small table" design was featured on the front page today , so I thought I'd use the attention to make a little patent comment..... within the hour I was no longer featured would be funny if more people add some links in there pages ... I tried another one .. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:350379 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:366902
  8. assuming you dont use glue (I never did) you don't need the scraper for print removal, just let the bed cool off long enough ( +- 10 minutes after you machine says the cooling is done) and your print will be loose. the scraper can come in handy though to clean the glas ...
  9. and there's the powerfull feature to use STEP files in DSM; http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2772-spaceclaim/?p=53816
  10. Not shure what.s the target age. Learned my 13 yr old daughter "design spark mechanical" (also free) yesterday. she could work with it fast. Just a question here and there....
  11. I talked to the video guy on the last event... there still recording the videos. UM please share them with us. Thanks. Arjan
  12. thanks, you're right, in this case it's very visible when checking in Cura.... however in the next model (nespresso cup holder) I find it very difficult to see in Cura what would be the best setting...
  13. Inspired by some profesional tesing videos like ( ) I was thinking it should be possible to create something similar for testing 3D printed material. I have a very simple goal, mainly interested in relative strength between multiple test pieces. Like to be able to answer f.e. which print temperature gives the best connection between layers. The machine; It's basically a simple swing, hinging in bearings, to measure the loss of hight when cutting through a piece of material. A piece of wood at the top makes sure you always release the swing from the same hight. A simple pointer mechanism shows the maximum hight reached during the swing. The first result of multiple "swings" without test block, show a good constant result. Testing 5x with a similar testblock (8 x 8 x 80 cm, same print settings and material) unfortunately gives less constant results. Also the difference in result between no material and the testblocks is very minimal. so improvement can probably come from starting the swing from a lower position, or scale down the total machine and "swing weight". I'll do some more testing when I can find the time ... I'll put the components on "youmagine", any improvement comments are welcome. One thing that can be improved for sure is the pointer mechanism (currently very simple with a rubber band).
  14. I used the atomic method a few times and was printing fine again in PLA. today I was printing in ColorFabXT, at 260 C, and got a lot of black spots. I assume ABS from the material feeder. I heard a new feeder for the UM2 is being tested by UM at the moment... anyone have an idea when it will be made available ??
  15. I would like some tips on how to prevent hole's like in the pictures .. any specific settings ? thanks, Arjan
  16. See image for an article in the Dutch newspaper NRC about Joris Laarman (it's in Dutch ...)
  17. Could you describe how you took the extruder appart and in what order ? I took the assembly pdf from github but I'm affraid to take appart more then needed ... thanks, Arjan
  18. I mostly don't bother taking a real camera for YouMagine pictures, just checked the resolution of my Phone (S4 samsung) and figured out it has the strange aspect ratio of 3264 x 1836, so 2 : 3,55 ... not sure about other phones, but I guess most people just use there phone..
  19. and for the need to create text in DSM ... just create "3D text" in sketchup, I think it's the easyest to use no fill and no extrusion, scale already to desired dimensions in sketchup, save as sketchup 8, import and pull in DSM ....
  20. Indeed, works perfect... I also discovered it already thru google ... don't forget to scroll down to the bottom of the page for the real solution ... import your step design in DSMech create a new solid (a cylinder for ex.) right-click on the top-most assembly name in the tree unlock I wonder how long it will take them to find out and "repair" this feature
  21. Thanks, I tried to remove directly when the machine says it's ok, but think the bed is still around 40 degrees celcius then. Just tried waiting 15 minutes longer and that already helps ....
  22. Hi All, hi Ultimaker people. After an 8 weeks wait today my UM2 finally arrived, Estimated delivery was 8-10 weeks, so good job ultimaker! On question; how bad is it to put some pressure on the object (from the side with a knive or so) while the glas plate is in the machine ? or is it better to always take out the glas for removal of the object ? Some small remarks / tips from my side; My order was not complete, one rol of white ABS was missing, although this is not mentioned anywhere I assume it was not available and you will still ship it ? My name was not on the shipping label (only company name), I had it delivered at work, so not very practical to leave out the name Probably hard to keep up with the changes... but the machine did not work exactly at startup as in the manual... the part where your supposed to feed material material never came, so I use the change material function and it was ok, the SD card did not have the robot file (only the test cube) and my unit only had 2 tiewraps in it (4 according to the manual). For now the machine seems very easy to use, first results look great! Thanks, Arjan Wijchen, the Netherlands
  23. UM2 ... ( topic name = ultimaker2 leadtime ) Arjan
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