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Everything posted by ultiarjan

  1. https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3Extended there's also the .step file to directly use in cad
  2. I only used flex material, though direct drive is obviously beneficial for retraction behavior, I feel the added weight of this hack is so bad that it doesn't make any sense to look at other materials. I did not, but I think it's basically another means to achieve the same, weather you reduce flow at the same height, or increase height at the same flow, the result is avoiding to much pressure build up.
  3. I was looking into a way to occasionally print Ninjaflex or other real flexible materials (85A) There's no way you'll be doing that reliable with a bowden setup (ok, I've seen people using oil in the bowden but nahhh), so I compared a quick and dirty direct drive conversion on an Ultimaker2 head (tested on my DIY GO) and on the ultimaker S5 **** first a warning, Ultimaker does NOT want you to open the S5, it contains an open style high voltage power supply, so it's DANGEROUS!!!, also the electronics can be damaged and I'm pretty sure you loose your warranty.
  4. Actually the locking is done by the little teeth in the white plastic thingy, not the horseshoe shaped thingy. Did you check it? Did you change it for a new one when you changed the Bowden for a new? Did you get a original Ultimaker part? I have seen 3th party tubes with a too small diameter..
  5. NICE! I think I'll steal that idea someday..
  6. https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52851-adjustment-tools did you see this already? the manual on the website. not complete but a very nice start.
  7. There are differences in solubility between different brands of PVA, but more soluble also means harder to print, so probably not the best trade off. It's better to use "support blocker" in cura to avoid support in places you do want it, don't ask me to explain how as it's not the most intuitive function of cura...
  8. If you can't connect to the download location this won't help getting profiles into cura, but fyi you can browse the marketplace directly (materials and plugins) ; https://marketplace.ultimaker.com/app/cura/materials https://marketplace.ultimaker.com/app/cura/plugins
  9. if you have massive under extrusion Cura may be set to 2.85mm fillament, while you use 1,75 ??
  10. there are various dual extruder firmware versions available for the Ultimaker2, have a look at this for example; https://magnetic-tool-changer.com/
  11. Sure , I did both already 🙂 at least a proof of concept, never got to really publishing stuff... I did make a better version of the single core head, using a single core bottom plate 3d printed in metal (shapeways), but I never really documented it properly..... always a lack of time and starting to many new projects 🙂
  12. I just use a diy plastic box with diy spoolholder, filled with a large bag of silica gel, but considering the low price of the polybox just get that one... (probably get one myself someday..) For me PVA keeps performing very good for many months. Between jobs I store the fillament in printdry containers. I assume results will vary a lot depending on when you live in the world...
  13. I use filament spool holders hanging on both sides of the S5 as I find the spools at the back inconvenient (and don't care for the loss of filament recognition). For some materials, mainly PVA, I use a separate drybox to print from.
  14. just to get a feeling for the scale, original UM2 vs Hemera, both without fans I've been looking at this as I would like one of my machines converted to direct drive for flexible materials. The hemera is to big for my taste, a pancake motor version would already be better. I'm also looking into a bondtech BMG + pancake + mosquito hotend, this looks a more interesting option imho.
  15. not the best colour to combine with white..... but Greentec pro...
  16. that's what I call 'out of the box' thinking 🙂 will give it a try for sure. think I'll have to print a few 'before' prints first... oh and the small print was not flat on the bed after loading in cura, so just use "lay flat" before printing..
  17. For most materials I like to use glue sticks for bed adhesion (I use TESA easy stick) and paper towel, to (a little wet) spread the glue to a very thin layer. Get good quality paper towel that wont loose fibers when getting a bit wet. I use Ultimaker adhesion sheets for some flexible materials . Next to a "spachtel" i like to use a glass-knive like this one from stanly in case you can't get get under the print with a "spachtel" For some materials it helps to cut the end at an angel before loading the material, and bending it straight a biut (spec
  18. first thing that comes to mind is checking if the cable connector in the printhead is properly seated. Have a look at this;
  19. very cool, like it a lot, will you also release the design files (stp) so others can contribute models?
  20. Think it's this one; (ultimaker part 8247). Don't think Ultimaker resellers will have it on stock, but you can try @MakerPoint they may have it. picture of other feeder parts here;
  21. the reason it's a 0.6 is because it's meant to print materials filled with particles, like carbon, glass, or various metals. While possible with a 0.4 , the risk of getting a clogged nozzle is much lower with a 0.6. I usually print Nylon on glass with (very little) glue stick, diluted to a very thin layer, using a damp paper towel.
  22. While I don't know this specific material, I print various flexibles on the Ultimaker adhesion sheets (cleaned with alcohol between prints) and that works fine, so might be worth a shot.
  23. I have no idea how complicated this would be, but @ahoeben would extruder settings synchronization be possible with a plugin ?
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