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ultiarjan

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Everything posted by ultiarjan

  1. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/18249-creating-m6-thread
  2. You can use the free autodesk fusion 360.... it has thread creation.
  3. If you want the ease of printing pla and temperature resistance you can try materials like biofilla pla-tec.
  4. well I don't know this specie.... but it appears not to have the ability to procreate
  5. With this mod you only loose space when dual printing. You just click the extra head station off and have full xy space for singe nozzle printing !
  6. What's that material you used to isolate the block? what temperature can it handle? looks like a great solution to me!
  7. there's a new (longer) gear design already to prevent it from moving back, you could get this part from a UM reseller is assume. I did not have the issue jet. You can also solve it with a little superglue I suppose.
  8. Don't forget to set the spring tension on the lowest pressure first... makes dissasembly/assembly a bit easier.
  9. It's a protection against extruding cold, but can be overruled; http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code M302: Allow cold extrudesThis tells the printer to allow movement of the extruder motor, when the hotend is not at printing temperatureExample: M302
  10. ABS is the cheapest, but hard to print. The best is probably PLA-TEC, it prints like PLA, but is heat resistant till over 100celsius. You can also try Colorfabb XT or nGen, but that has a bit lower heat resistance. There are a few manufacturers of PLA-TEC ot there, like for example; http://two-bears.eu//index.php?k=44 @neotko what was the brands again you used? There are also some PLA's that need a treatment in the oven after printing to become heat resistant. I personally find that to much trouble....
  11. I assume you did a firmware upgrade? Are you absolutely sure you did the upgrade for the correct machine? meaning if you have a ultimaker2, you did select that one in cura , and then did the upgrade? A common mistake if people mixing the Ultimaker 2 and the Ultimaker2+ I would advise to check and do another firmware upgrade just to be sure.
  12. you can set the position and the length of fillament to prime in the start g-code in cura (for the UMO) just google "start gcode" and you'll get plenty of examples available here on the forum. - for the UM2 it's setup in the firmware.
  13. You can just use the old head components, and only add a new + feeder, which should be available as a preassembled loose part from UM distributors now (or at least in the very near future). They may not actively advertise it on there website, so ask them....
  14. I'm in logistics... working 3th party for Apple in the late nineties.... I build the packout lines for the original bondyblue I'mac....
  15. sorry can't help you, my mac's are a bit outdated
  16. In windows throw away c:\users\yourname\appdata\local\cura And reinstall for a fresh start...
  17. is the gear spinning? in the right direction? If the gear spins in the wrong direction you took the wrong firmware (the plus models spin in the other direction vs the 'old' models) Otherwise make sure to bend the fillament a bit more straight before you feed it in.
  18. but what should the esteps be on UMO, he probably can't see anymore if its messed up..
  19. Somebody else needs to pitch in as I really don't know about the UMO, but on the UM2 the e-steps stay the same if you flash to a new firmware, except when you do a factory reset. So my guess is you messed up the e-steps settings, but you should be easily be able to change them back (again by g-code). On the UM2 is easy, you just do it by using tinkergnomes firmeware. Anybody able to tell the correct UMO esteps?
  20. It never happened to me with a single model but I had a few times that duplicating a model multiple times and scaling some of them results in cura getting stuck in an endless slicing loop where it won't get out any more.... And as a side note, placing multiple models and scaling them is very time consuming as after you scale a model even only in z it gets moved to the centre of the bed.... pretty annoying...
  21. I've got this feeling that neosanding will become a 3dprinting clasic !!! <3
  22. If you use tinkergnome firmware you can already preheat the while you're still slicing.... if you are really impatient.... it makes sense when doing abs with the bed at 100c....
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