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Everything posted by ultiarjan

  1. Installed V16.08.1 , did a print, all seems fine thanks for the quick fix.
  2. You can change the printarea directly in the menu when you use the tinkergnome firmware, which is a good idea anyhow... if you want specifically set a different start position in firmware, you'll find some clues here; https://ultimaker.com/en/community/10657-a-different-multi-extrusion-approach-um-tool-printhead-changer?page=11#reply-107302
  3. the feeders on the UM2 and UM2 PLUS rotate in a different direction, are you sure you installed the firmware for the correct machine (=selected the correct machine in cura before the firmware update)
  4. @tinkergnome. just installed 16.08 it seems the retraction (after print and after print abort) is set to the wrong value. It's retracting 10 CM (!) I used the 16.08 UM2 version (and after installation changed steps for bondtech, but did this ok as it prints fine)
  5. my experience is different.... printing at bed 100, head 270 (ABS) my setup got really hotter (guess in the 55/60 area) which gave problems with the cooling of the E3Dv6, so i had to cut a few holes in the curver box I use as top enclosure... now I keep it around 45c https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker2-top-cover-clips
  6. I guess in most cases a heated bed issue is caused by poor connection of the connector block. Resoldering the connections probably will help.
  7. It's a pt100. Same as in the head but without the housing obviously...
  8. And I always like to think in volume iso speed. If you really want to print fast use a bigger nozzle and layer height.
  9. Looks like the weekly leader board is messed up due to the intro of the education site. Matgrlll is on nr 1 with zero posts
  10. People glued/screwed 2 aluminium L bars under the bed from the back to the front.
  11. Ok so if the overall dimensions are OK it's not an autoscale issue in cura. Maybe something went wrong with the stl creation? Did you reload the step file and measure the thickness of the wall?
  12. And if your on a budget... there must be people out there willing to sell the parts of there old um2 head after they upgraded.
  13. It can also vary depending on the material you use. For example with collorfab xt /pet it seems more of a issue than with pla , seems I more often got an irregular surface on the infill. I've never considered it a big issue but there are people who experimented with extra stability bars underneath there bed.
  14. There are more.. but here's one example. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/adapter-plate-for-um2-feeder-on-um2
  15. don't think so. The connection plate is only in the upgrade kit. Not in the normal 2+. It has the holes drilled in the backplate.
  16. Not sure i understand completely but there are connection plates for the + feeder on youmagine. You don't need the flow to adjust. If you use the tinker firmware you can simply adjust the e-steps to the new gear ratio you have. Always curious what the copycats are selling.... even if many times its crap... please show pictures. Edit: think um should really start selling the + feeder as a separate product soon... it's the only way to stop people from buying copies I guess.
  17. And if ordering the part takes a long time you can just print one to bridge the time .... it's in the um2+ model on github. Just Google "github ultimaker 2+" you need software to translate the .step into an stl but many programs can do that... like the free "fusion360".
  18. On a um2 board you have a extra output for a stepper. You could probably remap this extra one to be the y-axis in firmware assuming you don't need dual extrusion.... I think it has been described on this forum before but i'm to lazy too look for it now as I'm on my phone.... so see if you can google it.... otherwise ask again..
  19. I don't even see the tension indicator sticking out.... take the cover of the feeder and put it back with the tension indicator sticking out..... it's the little notch on the part holding the spring. Then like neotko says screw it down till the indicator is half way. Edit... OK I'm not reading... it broke off... I would replace the part. Will only cost like a euro or so. Any reseller should be able to order it for you.
  20. I agree it looks very nice..... but I think tinkergnome's version is way better in information density.... I just love all I want to see in 1 max 2 screens.
  21. Well I don't consider it normal... but mine looks the same already for a long time so it's probably no problem...
  22. It all depends to what other machines you make the comparison. Most decent machines on the market are close to the um2 price range or above. And next to that there's the relative cheap umo+ I've never regretted buying the um2 the thing is just worth the money IMHO.
  23. nonsense. I use an acrylic front for my um2 and a curver box to close the top. In general it doesn't hurt to have smoke detectors in the house....
  24. Or check here for high temperature pla tec. that does not need treatment after printing. http://extrudr.eu http://www.two-bears.eu
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