ultiarjan

It all depends to what other machines you make the comparison. Most decent machines on the market are close to the um2 price range or above. And next to that there's the relative cheap umo+ I've never regretted buying the um2 the thing is just worth the money IMHO.

nonsense. I use an acrylic front for my um2 and a curver box to close the top. In general it doesn't hurt to have smoke detectors in the house....

Or check here for high temperature pla tec. that does not need treatment after printing. http://extrudr.eu http://www.two-bears.eu

Beautiful !!! Love that it's including the assembly.

if the motor is turning the wrong way you probably selected the UM2 etended in stead of the UM2 + extended in cura. Just select the PLUS machine and reinstall the firmware.

I had to smile a bit when reading 'manual autoscale' Agree default auto scale is a bad idea.

life was just so much easier with square robots

No need. All the older versions up to 15.xx can run next to each other.

You can... but there are no machine settings in gui jet, think/hope it's on the developers list... for now you need to alter a .Json machine file.... has been described here a few time... just Google...

When you make a change f.e. put in a different nozzle, you always have to do the bed leveling procedure and the machine knows the correct hight again...

I think the leaking is because there was not enough pressure on the ptfe. This can be easily spotted. When you have the + models or replaced the spring in the hot end with a tube on the older UM2 models the hot end isolator (the metal part with holes all around) should not be too loose. Rotate it until it's pretty tight. @sandervg think we still need a proper instruction from um on how to (re)assemble the hot end with the correct amount of pressure...

FYI, the design files of the + models , including .step, are available on Github. Thank's Ultimaker! this is what i like about you <3 https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Plus

Ha... a year of stock !!!! You have seriously low trust in ultimaker supply chain

Seems you re use the old feeder motor. In this case you need to double the e-steps. The easiest way is to use the tinker gnome firmware. Just Google github+tinkergnome and download the correct version from the release page.

yeahhh sure... that's real blood....Nahh Was just reading a newspaper when I made that photo.....

The shinyness is very clear.... Carl. Thanks for sending me a replacement.

My gut feeling says a good test piece should have mid air angels at various angels AND a horizontal area..... should be only a few minutes to draw....

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-spring-replacement This is the original design...

Mine comes from the + upgrade kit... but I guess you can buy it as a spare part from any um reseller.... but it's just as easy to print one... multiple designs on youmagine. Its not the original design but I believe gr5 made one with a hole in front to see the fillament.

Just installed the new 3Dsolex block, and obviously had to try the 2mm (!!) nozzle first.... Realize that with 2mm and 0.5 layer hight .... your volumetric speed gets insane very fast.... Installed it on a machine with the 2+ upgrade kit, so I guess this only has the 25 Watt heater (can anybody confirm?) it could not cope.... speed 22mm3/s Temp set 240c, Temp reached (and stable) 233c. Will try the smaller nozzles first I guess... but will have to upgrade... just to much fun to play with the 2mm. edit: continue to play a bit... with the fans down to 65% it's reaching the 240c ... will try speeding up and lowering the temp a bit (PLA)... edit2, the temperature will not be the problem.... you really need to slow down as the huge layers don't get time to cool enough otherwise.... this will need a lot more tweaking/playing around to get some result...

let's just say with the options currently (or soon.... foehnsturm setup) available I would not invest in a solution without a lift system or separate heads...

I see I never reported the actual settings I use, here they are; // Ultimaker2 with E3Dv6 + Pt100 + 40Watt heater Kp 24.57 Ki 1.83 Kd 82.41

the 80, 80, 200 is correct, if you calibrated with the wrong e steps you probably have corrected for underextrusion, so using the same settings will cause overextrusion. say for example you corrected the flow to 140% to compensate for the wrong e step than you should use 100% flow again. It's advised to print from SD card, not via USB, it's simply more stable. Not sure what you mean by a reset, it's probably just the printer connecting to the PC (the lights go of for a sec.), you just should not do it during a print.

or just get yourself some decent protection... with the correct filter type... will cost less than a spool of filament... get it at a hardware-store that sells to professionals (in the Netherlands almost always a better and cheaper option than the DIY stores like praxis & gamma) -- the white filters are only for dust / woodworking --

Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS) is pretty standard in serverrooms, but I guess not many people use them on a printer... they are also pretty expensive if you want any decent backup time., so it's probably only useful in an area where you often have short power glitches. and don't forget these things are not only expensive to buy... but you need to replace the battery after x amount of time .... http://www.apc.com/shop/uk/en/categories/power/uninterruptible-power-supply-ups-/_/N-13quq79