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Everything posted by ultiarjan

  1. So just to be clear, you don’t own a Ultimaker printer, but use Cura, the free open source product for which Ultimaker is paying a large part of the development, and when something goes wrong you feel the need to bash Ultimaker? I understand being frustrated sometimes..... and you excused yourself already..... but please be nice....
  2. Aha, so a firmware install does not overwrite the wrong settings.... someone who has an UMO needs to pitch in here....
  3. Not an expert but I would guess some issue with the power supply or heater/pt100 sensor. Can you try with another power supply? (Do you have more than one UM2 or can borrow one?) For the heater and the PT100 temperature sensor you can check if they are ok by measuring there resistance with an ohm. Meter. The PT100 should be about 108 ohm at room temp, the heater I’m not sure but can check later if needed. And if you do the above you need to disconnect them from the main board, also check if the connectors are tight, if not this is probably already the issue...
  4. I don’t own a UMO but my first question would be can you still connect to it from cura when you connect it to a pc with an USB cable? If so you can just update to the latest firmware from cura.
  5. I don’t see the picture, but from what I understand your nozzle clogged and then the feeder is grinding the filament. I would advise to clean the nozzle (google: atomic pull or cold pull) and maybe also clean the feeder if it happens again. The main reasons for this issue is printing to fast and/or printing not hot enough. Try starting with Cura’s default profiles and you should be fine. Finally, do you have an Ultimaker2 (with the small black feeder) or an ultimaker2+ (white feeder) if its still the old black feeder I would advise to upgrade with a bondtech
  6. If the 2 models are also correctly on top of each other in CAD and are saved as separate STLs you can use the merge function in CURA (select all, right mouse click on the model) to position them correctly.
  7. How fast it will degrade depends on the material and temperature used, but it should last for more than just a few prints normally. Luckily the part is super cheap (like 1 euro) so in case of doubt just replace it. It’s a part of which you always want to keep a few on stock
  8. Some thing that come to mind; Do you use the active leveling? if not I would advice to do so... A one time manual leveling to have the best leveled bed mechanically, combined with active leveling is the best. Did you try to rotate the glass 180 degrees to see if its an issue with the glass not being flat?
  9. here's the wire schemematics of the um2 motors, and all other UM2 details... https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/1182_X%2CY_Motor_(x2)/B1182-B2P-A.pdf Regarding running the motors, I usually use Simplify3D for manual control but there are plenty options, f.e. http://www.pronterface.com/ The board will give warnings when f.e the temperature sensors are not connected, so just plug them in..
  10. Technically it's simple, it would just mean an upgrade with the S5 feeders, and implementation in the firmware like in the S5. But it's not very interesting for Ultimaker to do so, so I'm pretty sure this will not happen. At some point there will probably be a successor for the UM3 that will get this (and at the same time fix the lack of abrasive resistant feeder on the UM3) edit: not saying the technique is simple, Ultimaker struggled for years with it... but now it's ready on the S5 it should be simple to move to a new machine....
  11. have a look here for 1.754 conversion.. http://www.3dprintingforum.us/viewtopic.php?t=265 https://thegr5store.com/store/index.php/um2-175.html And yes I would just get an original meanwell power supply..
  12. My gut feelings says that if a power issue causes the reboot there probably is no log... About the firmware, I'm running tinkerware, but on mine you find the version in ADVANCED/PREFERENCES/VERSION, may be a bit different in the original firmware, not sure. Can you borrow an UM2 power brick from someone to rule out it's the cause? (where are you located?) The first thing I would do is check all connections on the main board, are all connectors ok, are the screws (depending on how old the machine is) for the bed heater tight? And unrelated, but wh
  13. Don't think there's an official Ultimaker maximum, but besides steppers in my experience you're quicker running into issues with the hotend, as you need air to cool it. Looong time ago when i still printed ABS on an enclosed Ultimaker2 i had this issue. Think I kept the chamber temp below 50c to be ok at the time. Obviously the characteristics of the Core are different, so it's a matter of experimenting I guess...
  14. The temp sensor in your Ultimaker2 is a PT100, I guess it may be defect or the connector is not properly seated. You can check the temperature sensor with a ohm meter. The resistance at room temp (20c) should be around 108 ohm. See linked table. You can measure by taking the TEMP1 connector off the mainboard (see picture, sorry Ultimaker took the first picture I found and it was an aliexpress clone 🙂 ) https://nl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waardetabel_Pt100 You can get a replacement part at any ultimaker reseller, for example; https://
  15. I had the same, yesterdays update seems to have solved it, so that annoyance is gone... Upgraded an UM3 and S5, both seem fine, the XY calibration is working again. Can't judge the WIFI as mine are all wired.
  16. https://ultimaker.com/en/ultimaker-firmware
  17. Seems the v5.2.11 release notes are incomplete then... https://ultimaker.com/en/ultimaker-firmware
  18. are you sure you mounted the silicon pad correctly? maybe share a photo or even better video? Can you simulate by manually moving the BB core up and down (manually with the side lever) and will the head then pop open?
  19. Cleaning the BB core is anyhow a good idea so a few cold puls with PLA can be usefull. If you run the latest firmware there is indeed a bug that causes to much retraction before the XY calibration. Ultimaker is taking a silly amount of time to repair it but a new firmware is expected any moment now. Just pushing the material manually (lift the level on the feeder and push the material) at the start will do the trick. You can ofc also just first check the BB core by doing a single extrusion test print using the BB core with PLA, just print a small cube and see if it's ok. You may ne
  20. And the resellers are under the "buying options" button on the ultimaker website https://ultimaker.com/resellers/de
  21. correct, you can get the part from any ultimaker reseller, in the Netherlands I use makerpoint.nl They probably don't have it on there website but just write them a mail and mention the ultimaker part number (1788)
  22. "The difference between the detected height of the two printcores exceeds the realistic values" It will usually help if you have a correct bed leveling. Level the bed manually first, in a way that you have about 13-14mm to the bottom of the bed (works for me), see picture. Also if its one of the first UM3's it may still have a weak bed spring at the back of the 3 adjustment wheels. If you can very easily pres the bed down at the back, you want to replace this 3th spring. The AA0.4 core is indeed worn down by using abrasive materials. You can still print with it, use it for vas
  23. pretty sure the gummy bears feel different about this 🙂
  24. Sure, here's my system directory. DuetSystemDirectory.zip
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