ultiarjan

Ah, now I get it, so you say the belt slips in the "Sliding Block" (the name of that black thing) Then it must have been wrongly installed in the factory, I never heard this before. The block has two plastic parts that click together, I would ALWAYS advice to replace them after you take them apart, as the clips holding them together will almost certainly damage when opened. There's a spring inside the block, that probably was mounted incorrectly. It's an easy fix, but considering it's a new machine I would contact the re seller to have them do it, Unless you're not close to a reseller then have them send you a new block+spring and do it yourself... I would not ship the machine away for something like this... https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004339946-XY-Axes-Parts-Belts-Pulleys-Motors- https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004168803-Reseating-Your-Sliding-Blocks

I have a bondtech on a UM2 and a Ultimaker+ feeder on a GO (clone). The bondtech looks similar to your setup, I mounted it higher, think this is a perfect position as you can hold the spool either at the left or at the back. For the GO I made a custom spoolmount that i placed off-center, to make space for the feeder. Here's my mount for the UM2 https://www.youmagine.com/designs/bondtech-qr-high-bracket-for-ultimaker2

This may help you: https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004168883-My-Long-Belt-Is-Loose

because it is..... for looks the smaller one would have been better ?

Just sharing that Makerpoint.nl (Dutch) sells material on carton spool now, think its a great initiative, as I don't see any serious spool recycling ever happening.

And while you're checking axis, please also check if the xy axis are properly aligned. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-s5-axis-alignment-tool

@EVRC I see you had your issue while using a "hardcore" and not an Ultimaker core. I know Ultimaker core's are produced in the factory using a very high torque, so issues are mostly prints letting loose from the bed and material moving up into the head, despite the silicone cover. In your case I'm curious if it's the same or if you had a leak in the printcore? was you object detached from the bed? how did you mount the nozzle? did you mount it while it was hot? do you know how much torque you used? good luck cleaning....I think a heatgun should work but you need to be very carefull with the delicate core ofc...

Just did a quick test... used a WeMo powerplug to measure actual usage. Standby, about 22W Heatup from cold, around 401 W (just a few minutes) When bed is on temp, and heating nozzles; +/- 230/240 W During printing; fluctuates around 160/170 W Did the test using the normal PLA profile, meaning BED temp 60C, in at room temperature (20c) Obviously it wil be influenced by the ambient temperature, if you put the machine in a cold shed it will use more power. Also if you print some material like ABS with a higher Bed temp, it will draw more power. And ofc multi vs single extrusion will have a effect, but my gut feeling says the bed temperature is the biggest chunk.

Je kunt de hele kop vervangen voor een UM2 kop, hoeft niet perse met een hele upgrade kit, je kunt ook alleen losse delen van de kop kopen. alle parts vindt je in de Ultimaker2 github pagina. https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2

can you share a picture?

You can buy the original Olsson block at any ultimaker reseller, as it's a spare part for the UM2+. If you print a lot of abrasive material also have a look at a "ruby" nozzle iso stainless steel... http://olssonruby.com/

Whats the question? , just print a bracket and mount the feeder? And if you're upgrading anyway why not also put in a UM2 head.... and QR vs DDG, it seems to me the QR is easier to clean vs the DDG as it's a more open design. I happily use a QR on an UM2 for a long time.

The easiest and quickest way for all of this is just to do it manually imho, then you have full control. You can just go in the menu and heat the CORE to the temperature you need. On the S5 (love that new feeder) just open the feeder and push material in. On the UM3 (and 2+) use this thing to push material without hurting your fingers; https://www.youmagine.com/designs/wedgebot-for-ultimaker2

the other option @kmanstudios was referring to (and I can also not find it back) was leaving your pc on, and connect to the pc remotely. a user suggested "chrome remote desktop" but there are many options. I personally like VPN, easy and apparently safe. Also, as the build in camera's of UM3 and S5 are indeed in a odd position I use a raspberry pi , a few webcams and "motionEye" to remotely monitor my printers. On top I have my S5 on a "Wemo" networked powerplug so should anything go really wrong I can cut the power remotely (never had to use it though...)

Ok, now you made me even more curious ?

Good luck Dave!!! let us know how it's working out.

If what you want is basic heating and temp control why not just copy from the schematics from the ultimaker2, also on github. https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Go/tree/master/1546 Or to make it really easy just use some cheap Chinese 3d printer electronics

In my experience different types of nylon vary a lot in the amount of moisture they absorb. The ultimaker brand nylon prints pretty easy imho. I never dried it but I keep it in a box with descendants. Even during printing. I've also used samples of other brands and found some to be very difficult. It also matters where in the world you live... I'm not in a very humid place so that also helps ofc.. When you material gets to wet you can usually hear it when printing.

Not sure exactly why you need this but with the phone app you can remotely launch a print. At least when you are on the printers network. I do this using a VPN connection. Though I never start a print remotely as I prefer to be around for the first few minutes I use it for monitoring and the ability to remotely shut it down. I even added a WiFi powerplug just to be sure.

If you know a bit of CAD you can easily change the drawings of the um2 extended to make a design for for watercutting. I did the same with changing the um2go and cnc'd a frame. Also +1 for using the duet3d board. I converted a um2 with it and really like it...

If you only want the head just buy the original parts you need. You can order loose spare parts at ultimaker2 resellers. Just send one a mail with the parts you need. You can find all partnummer in the BOM on the ultimaker GitHub page. In my experience the dimensional accuracy of AliExpress parts was not great.

https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software/list

Think the firmware should be part of cura so download an older version of cura and try again. Did you check hardware? Are all cables properly seated?

Oh and when you mount it make sure it does not touch the metal fans holder.

You can just buy a Olson block at your ultimaker2 reseller. If you never replaced the original nozzle you may have trouble getting out the heater or sensor. Worst case you damage a wire and have to replace the pt100 heat sensor. It's pretty cheap to get a new one though. If you don't want to be out of business long get a spare before you replace the block.