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Everything posted by kris

  1. Version 1.0


    Colorfabb woodfill. Looks and feels awesome. Unfortunately I'm unable to get a single time out of it.
  2. Finally on holiday with a little spare time to post a few prints from last year: [print=3810][/print] [print=3806][/print] [print=3800][/print] [print=3799][/print] [print=3796][/print]
  3. Version 1.0


    Designed and printed this a while ago. Printed entirely in ABS. Based on a 3- view drawing.
  4. Version 1.0


    Polishing that thing took longer than printing it... almost
  5. Version 1.0


    I scanned the front of the car with a kinect sensor and modeled the outlet on the surface. Printed in ABS. Several layers of primer. Attached with double sided tape (3M).
  6. Version 1.0


    Customer request.
  7. Version 1.0


    ColorFabb PLA
  8. Version 1.0


    Yoda with Corkfill by colorfabb
  9. Jees...I just realised that I forgot a very important aspect: 6. Turn cooling fans OFF I operate a dedicated UM2 with only ABS and have no problems with warping this way. I didn't touch material settings for ABS, except for the print temperature. That should be as low as possible. Again, everything in order to maintain a constant temperature gradient inside the build volume. There needs to be a fair amount of glue stick on the glass (several passes), absolutely no need to use ABS slurry. This way I regularly print ABS parts to the size of almost the entire build volume.
  10. In order to minimise warping to an acceptable level you need to do the following: Minimise temperature gradients! 1. Hence increase build plate temp to 110C (only do so once the print has started, otherwise it will take forever to heat up. 2. Reduce print temp as low as possible without compromising strength 3. Most importantly; close the build volume so that heat cannot escape. You can do so preliminary with cardboard. 4. Brim is a must. 5. The provided glue stick is absolutely adequate. Cheers Kris
  11. Printed this in 1/87, ABS white. Cheers Kris
  12. Did a set of eight 170mm wheels for an 88mm Flak. Material innofil black ABS, layer 0.25mm, no fans. Each wheel has a weight of around 200g (hollow). Part of the rim and the shafts are printed separately with 0.1mm. Approx. 120h in total, plus 6h for one that failed because stupid me had to try out another glue stick. At first I used ultimaker black ABS. Turns out the innofil materials prints allot better.
  13. I would unscrew the fans and the metallic bracket that holds them in place. Then you can bend the metallic bracket back to its original shape.
  14. Did you always have this problem or did it occur suddenly?
  15. Support removal was ok, cleanup and sanding a pain in the butt... I did the model mainly in Scupltris, with some help from Meshlab.
  16. Finished this print today (UM2): ABS white 0.1mm layer thickness 50mm/s bed @ 110°C in closed chamber fans off Sword & horn printed separately
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