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kris

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Posts posted by kris

    Undruckbar? Wohl kaum! Oder...?

    in Deutsch

    Posted

    Hallo Felix

    Habe gerade Deine Posts gelesen. Wir drucken relativ viel mit ABS und (PLA) auf dem UM2. ABS ist eigentlich nicht schwieriger zu drucken als PLA, wenn man ein paar Dinge beachtet.

    ABS ist allerdings nicht immer gleich ABS. Gute Erfahrungen haben wir mit Innofil und Easyfil gemacht.

    Bei Deinem Teil würde ich mal versuchen mit 'retraction off' zu drucken. Ist zwar nachher mehr Arbeit, aber die hast Du bei dem Teil ohnehin. Unter 50mm/s bei 0.1mm musst Du nicht, ist wie man sieht eher kontraproduktiv. Ist Dein build volume geschlossen?

    Zum Modell selber; ich glaube das es für einen optimalen Druck noch verbesserungswürdig ist. Die Rillen würde ich zb mit einer dünne (0.45mm) Fläche schließen. So bekämen die Stege mehr Stabilität und es entstehen keine Löcher (dh. retraction).

    Der UM2 ist nicht perfekt, aber alles ist er nicht schuld ;)

    Wie bei jedem Prozess muss so manches Teil auch dem Fertigungsprozess angepasst werden.

    Viele Grüße

    Kristian

    Kohlefaser drucken

    in Deutsch

    Posted

    XT-CF druckt sich prima, erst recht mit dem Olsson Block. Hier kann die Düse schnell ersetzt werden.

    XT-CF ist deutlich steifer aber die Festigkeit ist in etwa dieselbe; um die Festigkeit zu erhöhen bedarf es Lang- oder sogar Endlosfasern (siehe Mark Forged)

    Wärmedeckel, geschlossener Bauraum

    in Deutsch

    Posted · Edited by Guest

    Ein komplett geschlossener Bauraum führt nicht zum Hitzestau. Betreibe zahlreiche UM2, alle komplett geschlossen.  

    Wer dazu druckbare Lösungen sucht wird auf Youmagine fündig. Die Haube kann aus Acrylglas komplett ohne zusätzliche Teile verklebt werden.

    Extrusion Problem UM2

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Had the same problem one; changed the teflon coupler, changed the nozzle, changed the temp. sensor, nothing would help.

    I then dissasembled the feeder. The bowden tube inside the feeder was pretty demolished. I cut off 10mm and made sure the transition form the feeder box into the bowden was smooth.

    No problems after that.

    Cheers

    ABS Warping...not solved...

    in Materials & profiles

    Posted

    In order to minimise warping to an acceptable level you need to do the following:

    Minimise temperature gradients!

    1. Hence increase build plate temp to 110C (only do so once the print has started, otherwise it will take forever to heat up.

    2. Reduce print temp as low as possible without compromising strength

    3. Most importantly; close the build volume so that heat cannot escape. You can do so preliminary with cardboard.

    4. Brim is a must.

    5. The provided glue stick is absolutely adequate.  

    Cheers

    Kris

     

    Jees...I just realised that I forgot a very important aspect:

    6. Turn cooling fans OFF

    I operate a dedicated UM2 with only ABS and have no problems with warping this way. I didn't touch material settings for ABS, except for the print temperature. That should be as low as possible. Again, everything in order to maintain a constant temperature gradient inside the build volume.

    There needs to be a fair amount of glue stick on the glass (several passes), absolutely no need to use ABS slurry.

    This way I regularly print ABS parts to the size of almost the entire build volume.

    Cooling the feeder

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    I have purchased two 60mm fans and designed a printable fan mount.

    My UM2's are all enclosed with acrylic and I will simple cut out a piece of the acrylic and mount the fan to blow directly onto the feeder. I guess it cannot hurt to cool PLA even below 30C. I have noticed that there is a small deformation of the filament even below that temperature. That causes unnecessary friction in the bowden.

    Cooling the feeder

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hi

    Has anybody considered cooling the feeder?

    Tried several prints during the weekend. All prints failed fairly early on; at first material flow was OK. After a while every print experience underextrusion that would culminate in 0% material flow. As usual I suspected a clogged nozzle. Cleaned it...several times. Didn't help.

    Finally I realized that the PLA filament had been flattened by the feeder. The feeder could still grab on to it, but with the new shape the filament would cause significant friction in the tube. No chance for the feeder to able to push it to the hotend. I had previously notice on my UM2's that the feeder wheel would get very warm because it is directly connected to the stepper motor. In addition, due to the climate we had close to 30°C in the room.

    I then put a fan behind one of the printers to help cool the feeder. Problem solved.

    I am no considering placing small fans to the rear of the prnter to help keep the feeder/ filament cool.

    What do you guys think? Any similar experiences?

    Cheers,

    Kris

    How to fix warping

    in Coffee corner

    Posted

    Hi

    1. Allways use prim

    2. Close up build volume ('green house)

    3. Raise bed temperature to 110C

    4. Turn of fan (in cura)

    Constant and relatively high temperature inside the build volume is the key

    Cheers

    ABS Warping...not solved...

    in Materials & profiles

    Posted

    In order to minimise warping to an acceptable level you need to do the following:

    Minimise temperature gradients!

    1. Hence increase build plate temp to 110C (only do so once the print has started, otherwise it will take forever to heat up.

    2. Reduce print temp as low as possible without compromising strength

    3. Most importantly; close the build volume so that heat cannot escape. You can do so preliminary with cardboard.

    4. Brim is a must.

    5. The provided glue stick is absolutely adequate.

    Cheers

    Kris

    Ultimaker2 Feeder System - Improvements and Ideas

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    Both PLA and ABS have a comparable Youngs modulus. The filament will behave as a spring; compressed when printing and elongated when retracted. That change in length is proportional to its initial length. In addition it is forced into a curved shape.

    If the feeder is placed in the middle above the build plate the extruder will only travel about 10cm in each direction. There still needs to be some curvature to account for the change of distance between the feeder and the extruder when it travels. But the distance can at least be cut in half.

    I have three UM2s; two only operate with ABS and one purely with PLA. Under certain extreme conditions they all can suffer from underextrusion.

    I am not a fan of putting the filament behind the printer as intended. This makes material change cumbersome. Instead I place material next to the printer in a low friction spool holder.

     

    Ultimaker2 Feeder System - Improvements and Ideas

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    Hi to all of you feeder experts. I have been thinking of maybe putting my feeder directly above the printer. Pretty much in the center and not very far away from the extruder. Has this been tried?

    I fail to see the point in putting it at the rear, making the ptfe tube very long. The shorter the distance the less prone to buckling and friction. And by reducing the length there will be less total elongation of the filament and maybe a more immediate response to retraction and hence less grinding.

    Just a thought so far...

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