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Everything posted by kris

  1. I totally agree. The design needs to be updated. Having to change the Teflon bushing on an arbitrary basis is not satisfying.
  2. The extruder design needs to be improved in order to reduce the heat flow to the PTFE part. At the moment the component is subjected to too much heat. I am pretty sure there is potential as I have posted in my heat analysis of the setup.
  3. Aroth, did you clean the nozzle? Even if the PTFE bushing looks bad, you might simply have a clogged nozzle.
  4. Difficult to do anything against shrinkage since it is a material property that more or less behaves linear with temperature. One thing you can do however, is to make sure that whatever you print cools uniformly. Hence heated build platform & heated build volume. For that I use a greenhouse to make sure the part I print stays uniformly at a higher temperature until it is completed.
  5. The PTFE bushing does not look good to me. I would suspect it is not up for the task anymore. Have you considered replacing it? The new ones are glass fiber reinforced and have a much better endurance. In order to get one I think you need to get in touch with customer support.
  6. I think friction has to be considered as well. Teflon has very little of that...
  7. Looks like inderextrusion. Maybe you have to clean the nozzle? I mean take the extruder apart and really clean it. I believe if the temperature is too high you will burn your PLA and residuals will get stuck in the nozzle and clogg it. I usually have this problem if I switch from PLA to ABS. So now I pnly print ABS.
  8. Thanks. I was actually inspired by your work. I have closed the rear with a cloth, similar to a curtain. Much in line with the minimalist approach ;-)
  9. Leon- I did suffer from similar problems in the beginning. Here is what I did to get things running: - I only print ABS. If I switch back and forth between PLA and ABS the nozzle will clog at some point. My guess is that residual PLA is incompatible with the higher ABS temperature. After you have cleaned your nozzle, my suggestion would be to stick to one type of material. - Innofil ABS prints allot better than UM ABS. To me it seems as if Innofil ABS filament is softer and the feeder wheel has a much better grip on it. My simple conclusion is that the type of material you use matters. My knowledge here is limited (I have so far only printed UM and Innofil), but maybe someone on the forum can give us additional tips on that. - The extruder has a few design flaws making it susceptible even to tiny variations, it is not very forgiving. I have switched to the glass filled insulator, but I cannot say if this is an improvement. So far I hadn't any problems with it. - In my opinion a closed chamber is a must for high quality prints.
  10. Ultimaker provides some glass fiber reinforced teflon spacers. A few thoughts; Ceramics will change the entire heat flow in the nozzle and most likely also increase friction.
  11. Hmm die Meinung teile ich nicht. Mit Innofill ABS komme ich prima zurecht. Auch hat sich noch nix verklemmt. Kann die Ursache eine andere sein?
  12. Did a set of eight 170mm wheels for an 88mm Flak. Material innofil black ABS, layer 0.25mm, no fans. Each wheel has a weight of around 200g (hollow). Part of the rim and the shafts are printed separately with 0.1mm. Approx. 120h in total, plus 6h for one that failed because stupid me had to try out another glue stick. At first I used ultimaker black ABS. Turns out the innofil materials prints allot better.
  13. I had exactly the same problem once. Nothing would help, until I completely took apart the extruder and cleaned it of all residual material. There might be some contamination that travels up and down the nozzle. Actually you only have to clean the nozzle and the PTFE bushing.
  14. I would unscrew the fans and the metallic bracket that holds them in place. Then you can bend the metallic bracket back to its original shape.
  15. Everything on youmagine now :-P : https://www.youmagine.com/designs/closed-chamber-green-house-um2
  16. The same happened to me when changing from PLA to ABS. Clogged the nozzle which led to heavy underextrusion. I had to completely take the extruder apart (carefully!) and soak the nozzle in acetone in order to clean it. Something happens when the ABS gets mixed with the residual PLA. I am sticking to ABS now.
  17. There sure is. Especially for large ABS parts a closed chamber is inevitable, see here http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5225-managed-to-overcome-warping/
  18. That is also a concern I had. But nothing has happened so far. For ABS I even use 110°C for the bed in order to avoid warping.
  19. Hi all Here is my version of a closed chamber for the UM2. The acrylic plates I used are standard sized and glued, hence no cutting required. I spent roughly 35€ on all parts. The rear of the top lid will be covered with cloth. The door closes with a magnet. I will add a rubber seal to the door and will have to modify and reprint the hinges. I also have plans to add an IP camera and hock it to the door. I plan on uploading all plans and material sources if there is any interest. Cheers Kris
  20. Did you always have this problem or did it occur suddenly?
  21. ABS extrudes at 260°C. What happens to residual PLA at that temperature if I switch from PLA to ABS? Could this potentially clog the nozzle? Just a thought... :-P Because I noticed many people experience the problem after changing material, including myself. So maybe there is nothing wrong with the hot end after all.
  22. Support removal was ok, cleanup and sanding a pain in the butt... I did the model mainly in Scupltris, with some help from Meshlab.
  23. Finished this print today (UM2): ABS white 0.1mm layer thickness 50mm/s bed @ 110°C in closed chamber fans off Sword & horn printed separately
  24. Wonderful. Also very interested in the results :-)
  25. Maybe this helps? http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5953-idea-on-underextrusion/page-2&do=findComment&comment=56951
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