eldrick

Where might I find the logs?

Thanks! Here's a copy of the files: http://clearlyadjustable.com/Temp/TAMresources2.rar

I have a set of resource files for the TAM Series 1 on my Mac: it contains two files resources/definitions/tam.def.json and resources/meshes/tam_series1.stl I opened Cura 2.5 with Show package Contents, and pasted in the files where I found other such files for other machines, but the TAM S1 does not appear when I start Cura and try to add it as an Other Machine. How do I add this printer to Cura 2.5? What have I missed?

BTW, your actual Ultimaker may or may not work with those last few end-of-travel millimeters at the right. Depending on the exact location and bend in the Home limit switches, you may lose a millimeter or two when you try to print - mine can actually print a 220mm wide object between the clips.

This is one of the major reasons why I'll be selling my Ultimaker 2 - larger build volume.

Thanks for the images - those are very nice prints. They appear to be more consistent than I have been able to do with the UM2.

Four leveling screws makes no sense - you always have at least two of them that are fighting each other. Three points define a flat plane, four points are the corners of a 3D prism, i.e. not flat.

Thanks for the info. I just want to print, not become a printer mechanic. I've owned a Trinitylabs Aluminatus and a UM2 (now with about 6K hours on it). I have a feeling that Series 1 Z-resonance might be solved by attaching acrylic sides to the machine, like their draft shield. I'd need to do sides and a front door for ABS anyway, and it looks easy to do on the Series 1. I've become tired of the fussing around and upgrades the Ultimaker seems to need - the Bowden tube design seems to be the culprit, as I never had issues with underextrusion on the Aluminatus with its direct drive.

Another easy solution is to drill some holes in the electronics cover, to allow air to flow in directly under the drivers. I did this after noticing that the boards around the drivers on my UM2 were turning overheat-brown. For some reason, Ultimaker did not bother with adequate ventilation for the electronics, as least on my UM2.

The solution is to use Slic3r, which does support variable layer height, and has a (clumsy) UI to set it.

The clips are the single worst feature of the Ultimakers.

I guess that's supposed to be funny.

Considering buying one of these. https://www.typeamachines.com/series-1-pro Now available with Buildtak system and adaptive bed leveling. Can anyone share experience with one of these?

I've not had issues with any version on Sierra.

Correct regarding X and Y directions. I haven't tested the Z-height - that would vary a bit based on the print-head and nozzle used.

"If I print (with only one extruder) from Cura, how can I get this 215 x 215 x 200 mm cube advertised on the UM3 specs ?" Can't be done. Period. No Ultimaker printer yet has been able to print an object the size of the advertised build volume. Simply stated, they mislead about it in their sales literature, to be kind. And don't forget about the horrid build-plate clips that also preclude use of parts of the area.

Slic3r does this effortlessly, although the UI on the variable layer height is a bit clumsy.

I just tried the variable layer height with Slic3r Prusa on a smooth knob with a spherical domed top, and it works beautifully to keep the layer edges evenly visually spaced. Watching while it printed, it reduced the layer height by .01mm each layer as it approached the top, then on the last few layers, it used even thinner layers. A bit of a PIA to set the area where you want it applied, and you are shooting in the dark, as the Layer view does not visualize the reduced-height layers, but it does a nice job..

Don't overlook layer thickness as a factor. Thicker layers are stronger because each extruded trace is stronger and there are fewer layers to bond. Also, rotate the piece so the printed "grain" - the layers - align with the max stresses. IMHO, thicker is also stronger because each layer won't cool quite as much before the next layer is printed on it, giving a better bond.

Meanwhile, you can turn off the lights using Tinkercad's firmware.

It appears to be the same old Mac v2.4.0, but now it has a new release date on the download page at http://ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software/list Taking a look inside the downloaded file, it's last modification date is 2/13/2017. Why is this - is a newer Mac version supposed to be available there? Is this actually a new version with an old version number?

Spiralize only works if the cylinder walls are a single extruded line thick.

Most likely, if the NW corner refers to the corner near the extruder, the Bowden tube is constricting on the filament due to the tight bend when printing there.

You will probably find that regardless of the material you use, the pressure will force water into the piece if it has any infill less than 100%, and perhaps even then, as there are always voids in any printed piece. Have fun experimenting, though.

Ultimaker has overstated the possible print volume and dimensions since the Ultimaker 2. Call it simple lying or call it marketing, the machine cannot print an object of the stated size.