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dmolina

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Everything posted by dmolina

  1. Hey slyowl, I'm well over 2 months using the extruder now, it's working great, the filament goes straight into the contact ninjaflex wheels, the guiding in the present design works fine. My guess is the ratio of your gears don't match somehow, that is, one set moves faster than the other, than the filament doesn't move straight up as it should. I'm really guessing here though, maybe a video of it working would help visualize what is happening. Well, from my experience, the more wheels you got, the harder it is to make it run smoothly. I've spent many days with the 4 contact wheels until I arrived at the present working version.
  2. I've made this post to discuss the pros and cons of the present design, to improve the already working and reliable design and get an even better mechanism! Ninjaflex Geared Ultimaker 2 Feeder I'd be glad to hear your ideas!
  3. Hello all, I've been trying for the past weeks to bring this UM2 board I got to life. From the start, the board didn't accept firmware uploads, didn't comply when trying to burn the bootloader thru ISP or USBtiny programmers, but now, after countless hours, it seems I got those steps right, as I've been able to successfully upload Marlin into it. The problem is, when I plug the brick and turn the board on, it doesn't turn on. When I supply power to the board thru either ICSP pins I get the green led and can communicate with it though. I'm sure that the brick works because I've tested it in my printer, and the other brick I got doesn't turn it on either. I wonder if there is anything happening with the relay, if I need to bring some pin HIGH or LOW somehow. Any ideas?
  4. I'm wondering if someone could point me to a compiled version of daid's Ultiboot whose source is here, or give me instructions on how to compile it. I got a board which I can't for the life of me get a firmware uploaded to it, have done the ICSP flashing on Atmega16U2 already, which went fine, but I'm stuck on Atmega's 2560 bootloader upload, which always gives me verification errors... (./avrdude -c arduino -p m2560 -F -P /dev/tty.usbmodem204411 -U flash:w:stk500boot_v2_mega2560.hex avrdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.00s avrdude: Device signature = 0x1e950f avrdude: Expected signature for ATMEGA2560 is 1E 98 01 avrdude: NOTE: FLASH memory has been specified, an erase cycle will be performed To disable this feature, specify the -D option. avrdude: erasing chip avrdude: reading input file "stk500boot_v2_mega2560.hex" avrdude: input file stk500boot_v2_mega2560.hex auto detected as Intel Hex avrdude: writing flash (261406 bytes): Writing | ################################################## | 100% 1.04s avrdude: 261406 bytes of flash written avrdude: verifying flash memory against stk500boot_v2_mega2560.hex: avrdude: load data flash data from input file stk500boot_v2_mega2560.hex: avrdude: input file stk500boot_v2_mega2560.hex auto detected as Intel Hex avrdude: input file stk500boot_v2_mega2560.hex contains 261406 bytes avrdude: reading on-chip flash data: Reading | ################################################## | 100% 29.28s avrdude: verifying ... avrdude: verification error, first mismatch at byte 0x0000 0xff != 0xa2 avrdude: verification error; content mismatch avrdude: safemode: Fuses OK avrdude done. Thank you.)
  5. dmolina

    Ultiboot compiled hex file for download?

    Well, I thought there was some special magic, something only Ultiboot would do, i.e., like an identifier to let Cura upload new firmware, etc. I´m not using any Arduino board. I got an UM2 board I ordered from China that seems bricked, I´ve tried to upload firmware to it thru ICSP header, no go whatsoever. I have plenty of arduino´s at hand, its just that I keep receiving the verification error described in my first post. Thanks for your interest btw.
  6. dmolina

    Unresponsive after firmware update

    Thank you very much for your answer jcosmo! Although there's even poetry in it , I did those exact steps days ago without success. I've managed to burn bootloaders on undetected arduinos before, so I'm pretty confident the process you describe should've worked, but this board never worked before (I'm trying to build a 2nd UM2 from scratch), so there's probably something defective with the hardware itself (China, you know...). Actually, I've tried so many things that it makes me tired just to think about writing it down! lol But I tried gammon's software, ArduinoISP as you mentioned, creating custom arduino board, etc, no go. I have an USBtinyISP programmer on the way, maybe that does the trick.
  7. dmolina

    Ultiboot compiled hex file for download?

    That answer, although clarifying, actually details the process of burning the bootloader, not the compilation of Ultiboot or pointing to a compiled version.... As answered there, that didn't solve my particular problem, and I'd still like to hear about Ultiboot as it stands at the moment if someone knows about it...
  8. Ow, I don't know if you tried to download it and took a look at the models, but there is an axle gear that goes into the stepper motor shaft (that I had forgotten to upload, it's there now!), so no, they can't feed in different rates whatsoever.
  9. I've been using it for about a month, there is a little wear on the edges of the zigzag pattern, not enough to affect performance so far.
  10. Yes, thanks, I've adapt on previous work (here). Everything in the picture is printed in CF20, except the wheels that are Ninjaflex. I've had good results printing the body in ABS, it seems that the gears slide better over it. CF20 gears over CF20 body creates sort of an additional friction. Printing the gears in ABS was somewhat problematic, because it expands more at the bottom of the print and makes uneven gears, that's why I went for CF20 in the first place. I'm confident though that with the right setting it can be done right.
  11. Ok, I finally got around to publish the design of the feeder I'm currently using. Ninjaflex Geared Ultimaker 2 Feeder It is really reliable and even though you need some additional parts (bearings and other little thingys), it is really reliable and I'm getting the best prints since I got the printer, with a variety of materials!
  12. ataraxis, I just published a similar design with the same working principle, except for the belts. Ninjaflex Geared Ultimaker 2 Feeder I think the less parts you could put in to get a reliable mechanism the better...
  13. dmolina

    Ultiboot compiled hex file for download?

    Yeah, I realised that too. I just wish someone could clarify where can I find the stock bootloader or how to get it going again, since I can´t see my board on any Arduino version neither in Cura and have tried everything I could think off.
  14. dmolina

    Unresponsive after firmware update

    Hey jcosmo, Could you please clarify exactly what wiring you used from the link you mentioned and how you went about it in more detail? Did you use arduino as ISP to wire to the board? Did you use the sketch from gammon.com or the arduino as ISP sketch? Getting the same problem here...
  15. Yes, as you can see on the stepper in the following image: The feeder grip shaft wheel goes above it...
  16. Ow, the same designer also made a 4:1 printable gearbox, if that interests you.
  17. There is this design I'm using that has the same principle, that is, the double geared coordinated system, and it doesn't use planetary geared motor. I made a reduced version that doesn't use the belts, and instead uses 2 rubber wheels printed in ninjaflex filament. It's working pretty great. I haven't uploaded my mods anywhere yet, but will do in a couple of days... Tell me if it interests you.
  18. Well, Sad to see this tread has lost momentum... After some weeks of trying different designs, I came across something that works exceptionally well, I don't know if it has been mentioned already, but anyways I made some mods to it and intend to release it in a couple of days. I made a version of this geared feeder, with less gears and a pair of ninjaflex wheels, as you can see in the pictures. It is working great! I really think this has a lot of potential to become something widespread, as its really reliable and don't demand a lot of modifications to the stock printer, and even though I have mirrored the feeder to have the adjusting screw on the outside and then had to change the motor extruder direction, this is not mandatory.
  19. Are you using the 40W version of the heater? Have you carried out a PID calibration of the new heater and thermistor? Take the values from the PID calibration and enter them in as the new values before printing. insight, if I got you right you got the ATC Semitec 104-GT2 thermistor to work connected at temp 1? Just to confirm since you didn't directly said it. You only plugged it in, changed the settings in the firmware (upload, etc) and did the PID calibration? No pull-up resistors? Either way, I'd like to know how you connected it, since I'm finding it difficult to figure it out... Also, what printhead body are you using? Could you post a link? I've got a broken PT100 thermocouple, an unusable um2, brand new k-type thermistors and an E3D printhead with the ATC Semitec and am trying to find a way to get things going again before the new PT100B arrives... Ok, so I figured it out. I´ve connected the ATC Semitec 104-GT2 to ADCL Analog 0, using a 4.7k pull-up resistor, and used TEMP_0_PIN = 0 on the firmware, now I can get a reading just fine. If anybody hits this, just to clarify ´cause it took me a while to come around this whole thing: you connect a cable to 5V (1st pin on the J26 marked header on the board) and a resistor (4.7k in my case) to this, the resistor goes to one lead of the thermistor, and then to an analog input (1st pin on the J25 marked header on the board) and the other to GND (2nd pin on the J26 marked header on the board). Choose the right thermistor in the Configuration.h (5 in this case) and assign TEMP_0_PIN = 0 on pins.h, in the section relative to board 72 (um2), compile, upload and you should be good to go! A picture worths a thousand words:
  20. Hello all, For a while I've been wanting to have a wider nozzle on my UM2, but a few months ago when I tried to do it I realized that my temp sensor was stuck there. Since I didn't want to be without the printer, I left the idea aside, but yesterday I decided I'd do it, and of course - the thermistor cable ripped and the probe is inside a now unusable nozzle/printer. So I had ordered some months ago some k-type thermistors from China that fit the nozzle perfectly, but now I can't seem to find a way to make they work on the printer. They have 2 cables instead of the 3 of the UM2. When I connect them to the original cables, they don't work, I still get the message temp sensor problem or whatnot. I've realized so far that I need a new pin assignment thru pins.h on the Marlin firmware (#define TEMP_0_PIN = 13), but what pin can I use? How do one connects a thermistor, to the 5V and GND? And above all, where can I find the info on what pins from the EXP1 and EXP2 and so on correspond to what number in the firmware? I've searched for this info in the github and wiki, but couldn't find a definitive answer. Thanks in advance, all the best, Diego
  21. Ok, so I figured it out. I´ve connected to ADCL Analog 0, using a 4.7k pull-up resistor, and used TEMP_0_PIN = 0 on the firmware, now I can get a reading just fine. If anybody hits this, just to clarify ´cause it took me a while to come around this whole thing: you connect a cable to 5V (1st pin on the J26 marked header on the board) and a resistor (4.7k in my case) to this, the resistor goes to one lead of the thermistor, and then to an analog input (1st pin on the J25 marked header on the board) and the other to GND (2nd pin on the J26 marked header on the board). Choose the right thermistor in the Configuration.h and assign TEMP_0_PIN = 0 on pins.h, in the section relative to board 72 (um2), compile, upload and you should be good to go! A picture worths a thousand words:
  22. Ok, an update: I've tried both sensor that I got around, both have 2 cables, I believe one is a ATC Semitec 104-GT2 thermistor that came with the E3D v6 printhead and the other some generic k-type which I'm not sure. Anyway, I tested both on the Analog port (it's 82 on the firmware, right?), with and without pull-up resistor, and I can't get a reading. No go at ADCL Analog 0 (97 on the firmware?) either, same results as the analog port. I'm running out of ideas now...
  23. Are you using the 40W version of the heater? Have you carried out a PID calibration of the new heater and thermistor? Take the values from the PID calibration and enter them in as the new values before printing. insight, if I got you right you got the ATC Semitec 104-GT2 thermistor to work connected at temp 1? Just to confirm since you didn't directly said it. You only plugged it in, changed the settings in the firmware (upload, etc) and did the PID calibration? No pull-up resistors? Either way, I'd like to know how you connected it, since I'm finding it difficult to figure it out... Also, what printhead body are you using? Could you post a link? I've got a broken PT100 thermocouple, an unusable um2, brand new k-type thermistors and an E3D printhead with the ATC Semitec and am trying to find a way to get things going again before the new PT100B arrives...
  24. Yeah, it helps, ty. I thought it should be there somewhere. But what to the abbreviations mean? TP23, ADC0, PD7? How do I know where I can connect a thermistor, for example?
  25. I´m kinda ashamed asking this, but here it goes... Could somebody please point me to where can I find the correlations of pins like swordriff just posted above? I mean, PIN 8 from EXP2 is X on the board, and then Y on Marlin, etc... As in here for the Ultimaker v1.5.7 PCB. I need to reassign some pins and am having a hard time finding this info...
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