lord-devil

Hope it's ok to post a pic from another printer. but I like the community here and since I didn't want to wait so long for an um2, I decided to risk a printer from a relativly new company in poland (zMorph3d). Especially as I loved the way how easy it is to exchange extruder/filament/nozzles/glass etc. - that was one thing I didn't liked about um2. Well it finally arrived and so this is my first print out of the box - to be true I am pretty surprised about the inital quality. I used voxelizer (their own free software) for slicing/generating the gcode, but I think it looks pretty ok. Still I guess there is a lot to improve? I really want to try slicing it with Cura too and print it out to see the difference - any ideas on how to improve print quality? Currently its printed with 0.1mm layer height (currently using a 0.4mm nozzle) and Colorfabb PLA pink filament (210°C) on heated bed with some glue stic applied. What would be good settings to try this owl with cura? Kind regards, Oliver

I have loaded several complex objects by now, there wasn't any crash as of yet. All of the objects where I had problems in Cura generating any support (I guess because of the small parts - cura just ignores support for them), they just loaded fine and the support strucutre looks quite good. Surely I don't have a printer yet... so I don't know how well it will print those stuff. As I found out they use this software for their own printer -> Zmorph3D - looks promising too, but yeah haven't seen one yet But I for one have to say that the user interface is easy to understand... especially you can directly control and simulate a printer with its exact move pathes etc.... can't find anything wrong here, looks pretty good to me

Well if you would have asked me a few years ago, then I would agree... memory might be an issue. However these days memory isn't really an issue anymore, so as always, things may change and the future may benefit from using voxels. As you can see in their software the generation of support structure seems to be much better and more accurate. The question is how it will print out - since I don't have my 3d printer as of yet - I wonder if someone has used it already.

Hey there, did anyone of you already tried to use voxelizer (http://www.voxelizer.com) to print on a UM2 or maybe in conjunction with Cura? The gCode produced by Voxelizer should also be useable by Cura, however it doesnt seem to load. I really like this software so far - especially its great generation of support structures, configure parameters etc. It seems to be a good idea to convert objects files into voxels instead of just slicing them before generating gcode. What do you think of it? Kind regards, Oliver

Well if this is only an appearance issue, than it would be ok, but would you be able to print that with cura? Thanks for your help, Oliver

Well I can open it in other programs fine. Its a gcode from Voxelizer, but had the same problem with the gcode file from makerbot.

Oh yeah I know but that is exactly the problem... I am in layer mode and all I see is the empty um2 box and the layer slider only shows 1/1... so there is nothing in it?

Hey there, I am using Cura 14.03 and whenever I try to open a GCode file from another program (e.g. Voxelizer, makerbot software etc.) it seems Cura is unable to load the file. There is no error message, but also no model visible. Is this a known issue? Kind regards, LD

I hope they upgrade their quality management... I guess those things are not related to shipment problems and could be easily avoided. Doesn't each printer print a test example to check if everything is alright? I wonder why the home position problem or missing screws (rattling etc.) don't get catched at this process? At least most of problems could get easily resolved... but stil I hope I am more lucky than you in 8 weeks when I should receive my machine

Nono I wont do spiralize, I know that doesn't make sense... but I guess the model itself seems to be hollow above her ankle... so I need to fix the model first to make her "full" ? I just saw that she is hollow when looking at the layers view

Thanks for all the tips. Hmm I thought 3mm should be enough for support structure - will it bend or break, or what may happen? Oh and why don't you need any support between her legs? Actually I have no clue what will happen on areas which exist in the "empty space"... I mean the printer will forward material but there is nothing to lay it on - so he will probably put a little bit more on the next step where he lands with the nozzle - is this correct? Regarding the X-Ray mode... everything is blue there - nothing red? In layer mode the only strange thing i discovered is that only her feets get filled...above her ankle everything is hollow up to her head and does not get ANY infill (doesnt matter if I increase fill percentage) - I guess I need to change the model so that everything is not hollow? Oh and does anyone know what the different colors in layer mode mean (red, yellow, green... and the blue line must be the toolpath - is there also a way to see exactly on how the head will be moving?). Actually is brim helping that the pieces stay on the glass and don't fall apart? I heard with PLA you don't need a heated plate as it sticks anyway - is this correct? Kind regards, Oliver

Thanks for the replies... actually I am very happy to hear that it would be possible! I was like... okay you guys will be busting this anyway^^. As far as theorycrafting can go, everything makes sense to me, except the spiralize option. I wonder how it would help to print this figure by going with one line straight up the z-axis... Now all I need to know is whome could I bribe to get my printer faster? :oops: Thanks again, Oliver

Hey everyone First off, I have ZERO 3d printing experience as of yet and while waiting for the next 8+ weeks for my UM2 to arrive, I thought I would get familiar with Cura and some of the software suites. So do you think it would be somehow possible to print this 3D figure with standard PLA on a normal FDM printer or am I only dreaming? What I was trying to do is using the support structure from Cura (but to my eye it didn't give any useful result). So I tried to create the support structure via meshmixer (3mm thick) and that is what I came up so far . I know printing is the only way to find out, but I am pretty sure there are some experinced UM gurus out there who will already see all kind of problems with this and tell me thats not gonna work - and that is exactly why I post it here as I want to get as much knowledge beforehand as possible. So is this even possible? What problems will I face printing this and why? Is the support structure anything useful at all? Will this even stick on the glass? Well you see I am a complete newb Thanks in advance for taking your time, Oliver

Yay I ordered mine today morning... still no shipping - OMG :twisted: Okay okay I guess I need to be more patient? :-P

I see... however I wonder what was the reason why they changed this design then on the UM2 - isn't changing/replacing the nozzle something that you have to do sooner or later?

@SanderG: Wow thats pretty amazing... it just shows that the only limit is your skill @Ian: Oh if replacing a nozzle is not recommended, I will not touch it... hopefully I never come into the need of doing so, like I said earlier I am not that much of a tinkerer - I always think i could damage something A set of small files is on the list, machine oil, scraper and tweazer checked^^ Anything needed for cleaning the glass or nozzle from rest of filaments? Okay so the tape is only for non heated beds, I understand

Happy to be a part of this awesome community too. So as can be seen by myself... in the end you guys don't need any advertisments for UM..., sooner or later you get stuck at this place anyway - which I have to say is an awesome achivement for a company... Well to be honest... I am not yet sure for what I will use it in the end (I guess I just got hooked by the 3d printing fiber)... My wife and me are having many ideas though. From printing some simple buttons to small toys etc. - I guess in the end it all depends on what we are able to get out of a printer like this and of course of my 3d skills. Detail wise and printing wise I have yet to see what is possible and what not. Also one day I would love to print an anime figure, but well small objects with lots of fine details may be a pain to print.... Regarding the filament, the PLA flex sounds nice too. I also heard of innofil3d... I guess there are so many filaments out there... lets see what works out best. That brings me to the next question... how could you post process the print? E.g. do some simple coloring on it. I guess you would need a special prime? Oh and one thing I wanted to ask earlier... as I see the manual of UM2 mentioned to use the glue for the glass plate. However some people tend to say you dont need anything for PLA. Others say the tape is great? Hmm... Thanks again for you input, Oliver

Eek can't wait to get it... so I think I should use the time now and start trying out all the new 3d editing tools. The last time I did a bit 3d rendering was over 10 years ago with autodesk 3d studio max 4 or so ... Is there anything I should buy in advance to get ready for printing (remember I never had a 3d printer myself yet - just read a lot of books about it and followed the internet happenings)... ? I already ordered the syringe hypodermic needles in case of clogged nozzles from ebay, a calliper (always useful I guess). Maybe I should also try to get a spare nozzle, just in case as I would love to print with woodfill too - I heard the 0.4mm nozzle is clogging easily when printing this material... Any other useful stuff? Cleaning fluids/material etc.? Oh and should I get only original filament or better colorfabbs? I guess curas default filament settings will work best with original filament only? Thanks again, Oliver

Haha... oh well I just hope that my 18 month old daughter will sleep as well during the night as today - than I should have plenty of time to print Hopefully the UM2 isn't too loud at printing... my room is side by side to hers ^^ Luckily I was able to convince my wife to buy it (she needs some stuff too for sewing) - so yeah - in case of attention suffering I can always tell her: "You told me we should buy it - NOW live with the consequences" :twisted:

OMG I did it... I just pressed the order now button... and yay I ordered directly from Ultimaker! I can sleep just better by knowing that there are no middlemans involved which could intercept/interact with the factory new and hopefully well sealed and packaged UM2 Order process was straight forward (I payed via paypal)... its already stating shipment: ready... so let's take great care when assembling my machine, you have plenty of time :wink: Take care, Oliver

Well I am thinking the same... though Imakr has gotten a large batch this week so yes they have it definately in stock now. Guess they will be sold out fast... Getting it now instead of waiting 8-10 weeks is tempting though...

Hey there... since I finally want to order an UM2, I am not sure if I should buy from an online store which has the printer currently in stock, or if I should place an order here? Surely there is the advantage of getting the printer now, but on the other side maybe its better to get the latest revision of the product which would at least justify the 8-10 weeks lead time by ordering directly. What do you think - does it matter - is it less likely to enounter problems? Kind regards, Oliver

Hmm IMakr.com hat seit ein paar Tagen wieder einige auf Lager... spricht da irgendwas dagegen dort zu kaufen (kostet ca. 100€ mehr als Direktkauf)?

Well I just got access to their manual and software (actually its now downloadable on their site - all you need to do is registering - I guess its just a bug and so it doesn't require the serial number). All in all my dream of full color 3d printing is over for now Well first off the software is a bit unstable... but the feature regarding coloring is really just a gimmick.... its nothing I would call full color print or be usable for serious prints... You can only choose up to 6 colors (sure those are completly free to select - thus full color)... then the colors will be automatically sliced onto your loaded object (from bottom to top)... so if you choose 2 colors you get color one on lower and color two on top and a gradient inbetween... if you select 6 colors you get 6 gradient mixes for 6 colors automatically placed from bottom to top... ! However you can't change anything else from the colors - there is no way to make specific layers in specific color nor change the way how those 6 colors are placed onto the object - its always automatically placed and simply divided by 1 to 6 gradients... I would say that's pretty limited and doesn't deserve to be called full color printer? Also since its twice the price of the UM2... I don't think its worth the high filament price. Surely a auto leveling bed and the plug and play features are still cool but not enough to convince me... Well so it seems I will order my UM2 now - I heard there is 8-10 weeks lead time but a distributor in Europe has several in stock now. Would you buy it there... or would you buy it directly from UM2 and wait for their latest batch to get the latest fixes etc.? Kind regards, Oliver

Yay I know the color will most probably only change inbetween layers and there only in gradients!?... That is truly limiting your options - still you would be able to create a much more diverse work than what you can do now. Also we still don't know the technology yet so wheter it would be possible or not. I guess it all depends on their software. However technically I can't think that would ever work e.g. printing details on a layer... the color changes would required to be as fast as a normal 2d printer - something which may not be possible by melting filament "on the fly"...